• Ran line pressure at the test port between the band adjustment screws and am getting zero pressure and the port is dry. I even tried cranking the engine with it open and no fluid. 
• After seeing that I wanted to verify my front pump was working and make sure the pressure regulator wasn’t sticking so I removed the pressure regulator and cranked the engine for a few seconds. Lots of fluid came out there. So it seems the pump is working. 
• I reinstalled the pressure regulator to try a line pressure test again hoping maybe the regulator wasn’t stuck. And am still getting zero pressure at the test port. 

The rebuilder is researching to see what they can find as am I. 

Has anyone had similar symptoms and if so, what was the cause? Any insight or advice is much appreciated.

The starting point is a 5" piece of 1" x 5/16" bar which is drilled to suit the mounting holes on the block. After that you need 2 'ears', I've used the same 1" x 5/16" bar. The front ear is postioned so the engine pulley and alternator (B section) pulley line up, the rear ear is positioned to suit the alternator you plan on using.

You should be able to reuse the original adjustment arm, it may need to be packed off the block with a washer or two or it may need to be subtly reshaped.

Hi everybody! I'm planning to drive my '51 Pacemaker to the International Meet in French Lick, a round trip of about 600 miles. I recently noticed oil seeping out between the head and block (see picture). Is this something I should be worried about? Thanks for your input!

Only the jack will not move, looks like the little piston which is probably supposed to pump the oil to the big lifting piston is stuck. I am able to move the main rod of the lifting piston up-down when the valve in the foot is screwed open, but the little piston (pointed by arrow in the photo) is frozen... Also the bleeding screw (?) in the foot is frozen. Which way to take the jack apart for service without breaking any parts?

How do I take this apart for service & cleaning?

With out measuring specs, I ordered National 471831 seal indicated for the end-cap application on my rear axle. Spec is 1.750X2.441X0.375, which is consistent with cross-reference parts, so I assume it is correct.

However, the seal inner diameter is too large for my spindle, which I measured at 1.288[+-], where the lip would normally ride. Does the part seal against the wheel bearing horizontally somehow? Does the taper bearing apply pressure against the seal with rotation? Do I have the wrong part?

Hoping to get it right the first time, and am grateful for any answers and experiences from other club members.

*CR Seals (SKF) 17310, Single Lip Grease Seal, I.D. 1.75 in, O.D. 2.437 in, Thickness 0.25 in.

ect

regards, Tom

Most other stuck bolts I would use the welder and/or heat on the bolt head but I would be very reluctant to use that method on the flywheel. Fortunately the back end of the bolt is exposed and you can work on that. The method is to put a bolt in the back end of the plug and use that to turn the plug out

Step 1 The plugs are 1/2" x 20 tpi, so drill and tap for either a 3/8" or M10 bolt depending on what part of the world you live in. Conveniently the plugs have a centre hole (mine did anyway) so you know you are drilling bang on centre. Drill right through the bolt BUT only tap half the depth of the hole.

Step 2 Screw your 3/8" or M10 bolt into the hole, it will bottom at the end of the threads and drive the plug out.

Step 3 Make replacement plugs. I started with 1/2" x 20 bolts, shortened them, reduced the head height (I made my heads 1/4" high rather than the original 1/8") cleaned out the threads under the head to make sure the head of the new plug screws against the flywheel.

A few months ago I was returning from a road trip and I noticed that I had left the electric pump on. I turned off the switch and a few moments later the car started to buck and stall. I switched the electric pump back on and the car smoothed out and ran fine the rest of the trip.

I assumed the mechanical pump was bad and had it replaced, but I'm still having the same problem. The car seems to be starved for gas and it will stall out if I try to run on the mechanical pump alone.

The only thing I can think of is that the mechanical pump does not have enough strength to pull the gas through the electric pump, but I've had this setup for several years and never had a problem before. Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks!

Thank you in advance.

Kim

I have no connection to this firm, but to any owners in the Chicago, Southern Wisconsin area, these guys are excellent. In business since 1952. I brought them a starter on Wednesday afternoon, they called me Friday morning! New bushing, checked the shaft runout, turned the armature, replaced the brushes. The motor runs like new and all in less than 48 hrs! The company is MG auto electric. (No connection to the MG brand). I believe it stands for the location of the shop, Morton Grove, Illinois. Great guys, the place is a throw back to where my Dad took starters and generators in the 1950’s to 1980’s. 

Highly recommended.

https://www.mgautoelectric.com/

Regards, Tom

I asked a repair shop that fixed one of my Terraplanes 5 years ago (they did a fantastic job) and recently I asked him what brand and where he got them from. His answer - he said he got it from USA but could not elaborate.

Thank You

thank you.

regards, Tom

Kim

Thanks in advance...

My recently rebuilt '53 262 refuses to start. I have good blue spark to my points and to my plugs; getting good fuel to the intake manifold but no ignition. So I checked TDC with NO. 1 Piston and found the points aiming at 180 deg to my former mark on my distributor cap. I remember installing my distributor to the cam has the slot a little off center requiring just one proper position for the dist shaft. Is it possible my distributor could be 180 deg out? My rebuilder could have set the cam chain for firing at NO. 6 TDC?

Can I just set the distributor to fire in the new order as observed, or do I open my timing case and reroute the chain.

I am including pics showing the position of my flywheel and the position of the points (pointing opposite to my pre-rebuild setting.) I don't know if this position is universal for step-down engines, but it is 180 deg. out from my usual as I marked everything before tear-down.

Any ideas or experience is greatly appreciated; someone else may have had a similar situation.

Only the jack will not move, looks like the little piston which is probably supposed to pump the oil to the big lifting piston is stuck. I am able to move the main rod of the lifting piston up-down when the valve in the foot is screwed open, but the little piston (pointed by arrow in the photo) is frozen... Also the bleeding screw (?) in the foot is frozen. Which way to take the jack apart for service without breaking any parts?

Second question: I want to install lap belts and have read previous postings in the forum. This seems pretty straightforward to drill 2 holes and install a plate and bolts. Has anyone done this and is it a simple as it appears?

Finally: the stepdown design makes 2/3 of the rear wheels inaccessible. How do you access the lugs (and the valve stem) on the rear wheels.

Many thanks from a newbie.

Vic

I've read on one of these threads that stepdown fuel gauges/sending units read: 0 ohms full and 100 ohms empty. I would have guessed O empty and 100 full.

Are 46/47 models the same or a different ohms value?

I find no data on this in my manual.