Just working on the never ending process of repair. Our Dad's Hudson 46 Super six Coupe.

The throw out fork had worn flats on the throw out bearing surface. Found some welding rod for cast steel and torch welded them up. Made a radius fixture out of a v-block to put the curve back on. Machined new bronze bushings for the shaft. One to fit the new diameter of the end because the shaft had a worn spot because the bushing worn through. The other new bushing to ride on the centered none used part.

I did find some bronze bushing with 11/16" OD. But with an ID of 1/2". So the one on the "none used" part ended up with a wall thickness of only about .030".

Hello,

I would really like to hear from someone that would answer -correct my understanding of the following.

 On the topic of the Twin H-manifold's heat riser. I understand that with today's gasoline that burns hotter the heat riser should be removed, holes plugged and that enough heat from the engine should keep the carbs from icing up. Also part of the problem is air leaking by the riser shaft introducing oxygen that makes the exhaust burn hotter.

So my question is, after the riser is removed which opens up the passages into the intake.... which to me would allow too much heat up into the intake.

Should I fix a new riser in the open position? And or block off the passage into the intake with a plate of stainless steel? I understand that the surface would need to be reduced.

Also by fixing a new riser, it would be made to smooth the flow out to the collector. Covering up the passages that direct the flow up into the intake. 

I hope the photos help explain my problem.

Thanks,

Metalchipper

I have a 1948 Hudson Commodore. Recently, I had the two-barrel Carter carb rebuilt and noticed that the Climatic Control model # 170 64S attached is actually for a single-barrel carb.

Not being Mr. Goodwrench, I don't know if this is compatible. My vehicle has a problem with dying when I engage the clutch to downshift so I am hoping this might explain some of the problem. Any thoughts?

When they start up do they spend slow and slowly spend and run? I'm simply asking this question out of curiosity. Like I said I'm building my first Flathead engine.

I'm building as close to old school as possible. I have Jack Clifford intake and exhaust. I'm using a Spanish Weber carburetor. I'm also using the new vortec head on my engine. Any information would be gratefully appreciated thanks

I might point out i encountered a 308 troll on another forum, very narcissistic know it all.Said his biggest fear was that i would think he doesn't know what he is talking about....who says crap like that...

I haven't seen him post here,so that's good.

We have a Hudson 1956- 308 tore apart for a rebuild. It is a low mileage engine with hydraulic lifters and cam that looks to be in good shape. I would appreciate hearing from anyone who has run with the hydraulic set up. I have read that they are noisy at idle from low oil preasure.

The engine has sat for many years so no one has heard it run!

But I have read that a few people have used them and like them. If we could reuse the hydraulic set up it would save the cost of a regrind cam and a differant set of lifters. Thanks for your time.

Tuesday I will be sending my engine to a machinist in Douglas Wyoming to have all the machine work done.

1. I need a new engine oil pressure switch
2. I need a rear lower mount for my three speed manual transmission
3. I need a shroud for the radiator

please contact me if you provide any of these

my phone is 307-751-5571

my email is jameswiltse3@gmail.com

thx

James Wiltse

thanks so much.