40 condenser

Unknown
Unknown
edited November -1 in HUDSON
I'm getting very close to finally trying to start our 40 Hudson....but someone had suggested I put a new condenser(s) in. Can I get them at a local auto parts store, or do I need to get them elsewhere? I did not even look for one on the car yet to be honest,,,,,but I plan to hunt it down tonight. The gas tank is clean......new oil (by the way....I could not find an oil filter anywhere????...location?), new battery....cleaned all terminals and electrical connections to the starter and ground wire...shined up the points...checked the carb/float and it does not seem to be gummed up at all. Thanks to all that have helped me by giving so many great suggestions as I have completed almost all of them as well! Tom

Comments

  • Jon B
    Jon B Administrator
    There is no oil filter. An optional one was available but it was the bypass type so fairly useless. Most Hudson people just change their oil regularly (I do it once a year though I probably have less than 2500 miles on the car annually).



    The condensor is usually attached to the side of the distributor. I'm fairly sure they're available at NAPA and other places, but they don't necessarily fit in place, as the original ones did. Dave Kostansek offers new ones, along with a clip that will hold them in place. Always buy two or three, because even new ones have been known to go bad. If the car suddenly won't start, put a new condensor in -- it's usually the culprit.



    By the way, on the oil, the main thing is to use the non-detergent (in an older engine that may or may not be "clean" inside). The 30 weight is generally all you can find, in non detergents nowadays. Multi-weight would be fine, IF you can find it in non-detergent.
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    Thanks Jon! Man you are available!!! Do you take care of the site and moderate? Thanks for all your help! I did fill with SAE 30 non detergent. The manual states that the motor should hold 6 qts, but my son put 4 in and it is to the 'full' line?? Will the engine later call for the other two after we get it going....or does it only take 4?
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    Dave Kostansek?? Website? Should I try to google it? thks
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    http://hudsonrestoration1948-54.com/STEPDOWNRESTORATIONAIDS.html
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    If 4 quarts fill to full on the dip stick somathing is wrong. Like maybe lots of sludge built up in the pans. I would get a set of pan gaskets from Dale Cooper and drop the pan and give both of them a good cleaning. Not that hard to do. Remember to put a quart of oil in the top pan before installing.
  • Jon B
    Jon B Administrator
    It's probably dangerous, but after oil is all drained I turn engine over a few times to "splash the oil out" of the dipper trays. I figure that the engine is turning so slowly that no harm's done, and at least some of that quart of used oil in the upper tray will make its way out of the lower pan.



    Then, after you put the 5 quarts of new stuff in the lower pan and run the engine for a few minutes-- and the upper tray has been replenished -- you can pour additional new oil into the pan until the full mark has been reached.



    Re: Dave Kostansek's contact information, you can also go to Dave & Mitzi's Hudson page http://home.earthlink.net/~dsollon/public.htm/ and click on the SUPPLIERS link for lots of names. When you join the Club you will get a roster that's 7/8" thick, with 3500 names, addresses, phone #'s and e-mails.



    Yes, I am one of the moderators, so must hang out here every day to make sure people behave themselves, LOL!
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    Clean the oil pan. Turning the engine over a few times are even running it several minutes will not splash the oil out of the top pan. Back in about 1943 my Dad and Mom Sster & I were out for a Sunday drive down to where he was working for TVA building new roads and levees. Hit a big rock and knocked the drain plug comeplety out of the oil pan. It was a 41 Traveler he bought new in Knoxville, TN. He drove that Hudson back to town (Big Sandy, TN) with the bottom knocked out of the pan.Its only oil was in the top pan. Didnt seem to hurt it at all. After 250,000 miles traded it for the first new Dodge the dealer in town got. Kept the dodge about a year and traded it for a 46 Hudson 8. Now would I say to drive are even start one without the pans full? NO. But to keep from walking the 8 miles back to town I would try it in a splacher. My 2 c worth
  • Park_W
    Park_W Senior Contributor
    To answer the original question, the condenser at NAPA is AL869. Points are CS-709. And no matter how "clean" the gas tank is, if the gas in it is over a year old and hasn't had stabilizer added for that time, get rid of it and put fresh gas in it.
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    I have to question the advice here on using 30 weight non detergent oil on our cars...why would we use older inferior quality oil rather than a good 10w-30 oil that has newer technology and in my mind has superior lubricating qualities?



    If I'm recycling some ignorance here please straighten me out.
  • Jon B
    Jon B Administrator
    Jim, many people think that -- if you put detergent oil into an engine that hasn't been rebuilt in a long time -- it will free up all the crud that has deposited itself on the inside of the engine. (The stuff is, after all, a "detergent" oil, meant to keep things clean!) This would be fine in an engine with an oil filter, but at best, Hudsons have the optional bypass filter. So, all that crud that gets loosened and freed up by the detergent oil, will now be merrily circulating in your engine, just waiting to plug up an oil passage or dipper hold (in the older splashers) and cause bearing failure.



    I DO use detergent in mine, and a modern viscosity at that. But that's because I started doing so immediately after my engine was rebuilt (and the inside was clean). Nothing has had a chance to build up. No crud to be loosened from the walls and merrily circulated.
  • Geoff
    Geoff Senior Contributor
    Jimalberta wrote:
    I have to question the advice here on using 30 weight non detergent oil on our cars...why would we use older inferior quality oil rather than a good 10w-30 oil that has newer technology and in my mind has superior lubricating qualities?



    If I'm recycling some ignorance here please straighten me out.



    You are right Jim. This topic comes up on here like clockwork. The last thing a vintage engine needs is vintage oil. Straight 30 non-detergent is the best recipe for rapid wear and sludge build-up, if you want that. Use a good quality modern multi-viscosity oil. However, I think the jury is still out on synthetic oil in a splash fed engine, so I would not go that far. I have used Castrol GTX for the last 30 years, in all my cars with no problems. And the old wives story of detergent oil loosening gunk and ruining an engine is a myth. No oil company is going to market a product withteven the slightest possibility of this occurring.
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    I actually use the topic of detergent oil and sludge to tell me its spring.....ah now that has been brought up again I know its truly spring.....



    Please people wait 2 months before bringing up Rotella I use that to tell me its summer.......:D
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    Good one Sean
  • 53jetman
    53jetman Senior Contributor
    I have to agree - why use 1930-1940 technology for your lubricants when far better and higher quality motor oils are available today for about the same cost. I use 10W-40 engine oil in both my 1933 Terraplane 6 and my 1953 Super Jet. Once the engine and oil sump are clean, you don't have to worry about sludge build up, even in the splasher engines.



    Jerry

    53jetman
This discussion has been closed.

Categories

In this Discussion