49 Clutch Pressure Plate Question.

Unknown
Unknown
edited November -1 in HUDSON
Clutch is on my bench and while the pressure plates is not pitted, warped or distorted in anyway, there is a "glaze" of sorts and what appears to be a large dark brown area where some cork burned off. Before I pulled the car aprart, it was chattering a bit and flushing it with kerosene did no good. Anway, I already had the flywheel turned and have a new clutch disc (even though the one in it was in pretty good shape) and I am beginning to think that the reason it slipped and chattered was because of the glazing on the pressure plate.



Anyone else experience this? If so, should I have it turned or can I get the glazing off another way? I am tempted to just send it out to Fort Wayne Clutch and have them go over it, but kinda want to save some pennies right now.



Thanks

Comments

  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    i would have thought that the tet chloride / acetone mix was suppose to remove the burned cork crap... if kerosene was as good a cleaner wouldn't a guy think it would have been in the service book? after all, kerosene was readily available in the 40's and 50's. and probably a bunch cheaper than potient chemical mix.... just my two cents.

    i probably would have the plate surface ground at least.....
  • Jon B
    Jon B Administrator
    Well, not to put down Fort Wayne Clutch, but Doctor Doug (Wildrick) is an expert at Hudson clutches and he aint THAT far from Fort Wayne....
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    Dennis:

    Your analysis is correct. The burned spot on your pressure plate relates to a clearance problem, in fact it is one that means either the clutch disk or pressure plate did not have the same clearance all the way round. This can be caused by many factors ... including improperly adjusted clutch fingers, throwout bearing not putting even pressure on all three clutch fingers. In any case there was at one time a condition that caused the clutch plate to address the pressure plate in an uneven manner. The scorched surface will not engage as smoothly as the clean areas. It may cause clutch chatter and it may cause sticking of the new clutch.

    Recommendations.

    1. If you have the skills, desire and adjustment procedures. Check the pressure plate for clutch finger alignment.

    2. Using a known good straight edge make sure the clutch plate surface is not warped.

    3. To clean the surface you can use a light sanding of the scotched area or send it out for rehabilitation. Doug Wildrick would be one source for having this done.

    4. I would not advise you or anyone who has access to carbon Tech to use this chemical. It is no longer available due to it's VERY caustic effects on Humans. A short exposure to the fumes can relate to a life time of breathing problems and potential death. Believe me when I say this... I have had to rescue members of my military unit from a Carbon Tet cleaning room where the safety measures meant to keep the fumes from these weapons techs failed. The failure of an evaporative condenser caused two men to suffer irreversible lung damage. I do not have any recommendations for a replacement cleaner. Maybe others who read this post will know of a Safe solvent.

    Good Luck
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    uncle josh had a replacement for tet clor. if you do a google on tet clor. you will find it to be almost worse than you describe. i was only suggesting that kerosene probably did not clean the corks and pressure plate surface as well as this poisonous mixture. and where would one get "hudsonite" and what do you suppose it consists of ??
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    When my clutch is in the up, clutch engaged, position, transmission in neutral in my '53 Hudson Wasp there is a rhythmical clacking that varies with engine speed. This goes away when dpressing the pedal and dis-engaging the clutch. Sounds like a throwout bearing to me. What do you think? Is it?

    Harry
  • Walt-LA
    Walt-LA Senior Contributor
    Carbon tetrachloride is a recognized cancer causing chemical. Once even used in fire extinguishers, it is regulated now. Google turns up a number of sites, here's one of some interest:



    http://www.scorecard.org/chemical-profiles/summary.tcl?edf_substance_id=56-23-5





    Walt-LA
  • Geoff
    Geoff Senior Contributor
    My Hornet clutch was slipping badly due to the corks being tissue-paper thin. The flywheel and pressure plate surface were similarly discoloured, no doubt due to the slipping causing heat. Before replacement the plate used to stick to the flywheel, and I could not engage gears after even overnight sitting, unless I wedged the pedal down to prevent this happening. It was also rough engaging, even though the fluid level was correct. I installed a NOS clutch plate, and polished the flywheel and pressure plate surfaces by hand using 120 grit emery cloth initially to break the glaze, and then used 280 grade wet and dry sandpaper and kerosene. I'm pleased to report that the problem is completely cured. The plate no longer sticks to the flywheel, and the engagement is extremely smooth. I used ATF in the clutch. The other problem which Harry describes is the adjustment of the clutch fingers - one of them is low and chattering. The method of adjusting is in the workshop manual, but it would definitely pay to check the surfaces of the flywheel and pressure plate, as well as the trueness of the cork disc. If this is warped it can cause the same problem.

    Geoff.
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    The clicking sound with the clutch pedal up and the transmission in neutral is most likely an input shaft bearing going out. When you depress the clutch you are now running the T.O. bearing. If it were bad you would hear noise with the cluth pedal depressed only.
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