Need Smart Answer To Dumb Question
OK, my turn to show my ignorence . I have tappet clearance info as 14 and 17 cold, correct ? Why is everyone recomending spark plug setting at 35 when my manual says points 20--plugs 25 ? Never saw the guts of a splasher before. The upper tray that needs to be sure is cleaned, the only place I see for oil to come back down is where the valve springs are at , is this the area or am I missing something ? P.S. --better dumb than STUPID . BUD
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Bud look at the passenger side of this engine. Look under the exhaust manifold and over the fuel pump. You see two long side covers. You take those off and you will get access to the valves for adjustment.
You plug gap on that engine should be .032. I see the manual says .025 can you still get a champion J8 Plug?
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51hornetA wrote:
___That's where I'm at, is that area what is referred to as the upper tray ?Bud look at the passenger side of this engine. Look under the exhaust manifold and over the fuel pump. You see two long side covers. You take those off and you will get access to the valves for adjustment.
You plug gap on that engine should be .032.0 -
No the upper tray is in the oil pan on a splasher. The splasher has a two part oil pan the upper tray is where the rod scoopers hit the oil in troughs builtin to the upper pan. When you drop the pan on a splasher that has sat you need to clean both the upper tray and the lower oil pan.
These are called the valve or tappet covers.0 -
OK, I've done that, in old posts I saw where someone apparently had the drain back holes where the tappets are blocked, had a rod failure,blamed it on this and called this the upper tray, now if I know the 14 and 17 cold tappet set is correct I can button this thing up, some were a bit closer than this. BUD0
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37 Terraplane#2 wrote:
If you are talking about a splasher engine, 6 cylinder to 1947, or 8 cylinders to 1952, the valves are set 0.008 intake and 0.010 exhaust. The 14 to 17 setting is on the 6 cylinder engines 1948 to 1955, 1956 started as hydraulic valve lifters but were changed to solids later in the year. All plugs are set 0.032 and points at 0.020. WaltOK, I've done that, in old posts I saw where someone apparently had the drain back holes where the tappets are blocked, had a rod failure,blamed it on this and called this the upper tray, now if I know the 14 and 17 cold tappet set is correct I can button this thing up, some were a bit closer than this. BUD0 -
walt's garage-53 wrote:
----THANKS WALT, yes I'm setting them on my 37 and I had the WRONG INFO !! I've twisted wrenchs on something or other all my life, mostly deisels and hot rods/race cars but these things are a whole new ball game !! Thanks again.---BUDIf you are talking about a splasher engine, 6 cylinder to 1947, or 8 cylinders to 1952, the valves are set 0.008 intake and 0.010 exhaust. The 14 to 17 setting is on the 6 cylinder engines 1948 to 1955, 1956 started as hydraulic valve lifters but were changed to solids later in the year. All plugs are set 0.032 and points at 0.020. Walt0 -
thats a cool living room engine, no dust yet but its now sitting in its proper place
steve0 -
I may be on the wrong side of the tracks on this, but it seems to me I remember that the upper trays should be filled BEFORE you put the pan back in place. Takes about a quart - and a lot of care.
Hudsonly,
Alex Burr
Memphis, TN0 -
bartibog1 wrote:
--- I sure hope you meant in the garage , poised to be dropped in a Hudson worthy of it .thats a cool living room engine, no dust yet but its now sitting in its proper place
steve
Yes, could be wrong as I'm just learning the splasher but it is my understanding the top tray is to be filled before replacing a pan that has been dropped . BUD0 -
The only way the tappets and upper parts of the engine gets oiled is by the splash system. The oil pump on these engines only pump oil from the bottom pan into the upper pan. The rod dippers throw the oil on up into the engine. There is a tray or shelf like deal made into the valve side of the block that catches oil and feeds it to the main bearings. So when cleaning the pans and inside of these engines be sure that these trays are cleaned all the way to the mains. As Alex says be sure and fill the trays in upper pan with oil before installing. If not you can pour the oil in the valve chambers and that will fill the trays in upper pan also the tray or shelf that lube the mains, good before starting the motor.0
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The settings of .008" an .010" are for an engine at normal operating temperature, which is the only truly accurate way of setting them.
Geoff.0 -
Geoff C., N.Z. wrote:The settings of .008" an .010" are for an engine at normal operating temperature, which is the only truly accurate way of setting them.
Geoff.
GEOFF, I don't think I'm that fast, the last ones will be cooled off by the time I get the covers off and go thru half of them , and will it not sling oil all over with the covers off ? What would you suggest as a cold setting ? BUD0 -
Take the inner guard section out before you go driving, that will give you easy access to the tappet covers. 2 minutes to remove the wheel, five minutes to take off the tappet covers, and half an hour to adjust the tappets, and it's all done. Easier with a helper to turn the crank handle for you. Remember to work in the firing order 153624. Start with Cylinder 1 exh. valve up. There will always be two valves up at the same time. Adjust the opposite two, wind the engine over 1/6 turn which will bring Cylinder 6 exhaust valveup, and one other at that end. Carry on 1/6 of a turn at a time and you have the whole lot done in short time. This topic has been covered in the W.T.N. several times over the years, and on this forum many times, but we all need reminding regularly.0
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OK here's how it went, if you look at a cam when any given exhaust valve is full up there will be 2 valves on the back side of they're cam lobe- ex valves are directly under spark plug. Put a 6 inch steel rule with clip on it in plug hole will show when up. 1 ex up,set 6ex,5in--2 up,set 5ex,4in--3 up,set 6in,4ex--4 up set 1in,3ex--5 up set 2ex,3in--6 up set 1ex,2in--This makes it easy to do alone with a remote starter tool . Had so many specs on clearance given decided to shoot in the dark, I set them at 8 and 10 cold , fired it up to full operateing temp, rechecked clearance and there was NO CHANGE , and yes there is no doubt I had them on the mark, took my time to be sure they were . This engine no doubt has the original valves/seats as the car does not appear to have ever been in the hands of someone with lots of $$ to put in it ,and altho a start had been made,it had never been rebuilt at any time, all the original dry rot wires etc. were still there . Thanks to all you guys for your input on this.---BUD0
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Billy K.TN. wrote:
---- This is only partially correct,will leave it for someone else or later . ---BUDThe only way the tappets and upper parts of the engine gets oiled is by the splash system. The oil pump on these engines only pump oil from the bottom pan into the upper pan. The rod dippers throw the oil on up into the engine. There is a tray or shelf like deal made into the valve side of the block that catches oil and feeds it to the main bearings. So when cleaning the pans and inside of these engines be sure that these trays are cleaned all the way to the mains. As Alex says be sure and fill the trays in upper pan with oil before installing. If not you can pour the oil in the valve chambers and that will fill the trays in upper pan also the tray or shelf that lube the mains, good before starting the motor.0
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