Best Sealant for Water Jacket

[Deleted User]
[Deleted User]
edited November -1 in HUDSON
My water jacket on my 212 engine is leaking. It is a NOS water jacket bolted on a fresh overhauled engine with new gasket and stainless steel screws with new copper gasket under the screws and sealant applied to the gasket and screw threads upon installation. The screws were not over tightened. I used a sealant that I have used for years.

The darn thing LEAKS, even when it sets. Don't really notice it when it is running, but is coming from around the gasket. I have one on my eight cylinder and it never leaked. Is there a really good sealant that someone would suggest?



Thanks

Comments

  • Jon B
    Jon B Administrator
    1. And you're sure it's leaking where the mounting flange of the jacket hits the block?



    2. Have you held a straightedge along the flange of the jacket to see if it's flat? Even though it's NOS, it could have gotten dented or bent during storage, and even the gasket cement can't fill the void.



    3. Are you sure the mating portion of the engine block was flat, and not rusted or otherwise imperfect where it met the flange of the jacket? Again, if the imperfection was too deep, the gasket cement might not fill it.
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    I use ULTRA BLUE from the parts house on just about everything . It does not set up fast and gives you the time needed for such things as a number of screws or getting a part into place , but really a cork gasket should be all that is needed . BUD
  • Ol racer
    Ol racer Senior Contributor
    A trick with most of todays RTV sealants is to let them 'set-up' awhile before tightening otherwise the sealant ozzes out when tightening.......
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    Ol racer wrote:
    A trick with most of todays RTV sealants is to let them 'set-up' awhile before tightening otherwise the sealant ozzes out when tightening.......
    ---That may be ok if it is spread VERY evenly and on heavy parts, try it on cast aluminum or such and you'll end up with cracked parts. I would not recomend it to anyone not expereinced with the stuff, the right amount will be left there if just spread even and tighten down,all it pushes out is what is not needed , and again, if a cork gasket won't hold it something is wrong, the cork swells when wet . And the stainless screws, unless you coat the threads with NEVER SEIZE, not a sealant, you'll regret it next time you work on it , BUD
  • ernie28
    ernie28 Expert Adviser
    I smear a thin coating of Molykote 111 on all paper gaskets now and have used it on a head gasket also with great success. It works up to 200 degrees C, does not harden allowing easy removal of components and seals like I require. It is a clear water and steam valve product that i was put onto be a fellow HET member and so far am sold on it.



    Alistair

    NZ
  • 35Terra
    35Terra Senior Contributor
    And where would one buy the Molykote 111? I would like to try it on some paper gaskets of my own.



    Jim
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    Thanks for the input. 37 Terraplane #2, -- the reason I went with stainless bolts was the that old steel bolts I took out when I overhauled the engine were rusted in the block and the part of the bolt that was inside the water jacket was completely rusted off. Some of the screws were only 1/4 inch long due to rusting.
  • junkcarfann
    junkcarfann Expert Adviser
    When Stainless and regular steel, such as non-stainless bolts and nuts, are used together, something happens and the two become fused together.



    I made that mistake once on a motorcycle, used stainless nuts on two threaded studs that were part of the frame. Later, I had to chop the nuts off to disassemble it.



    I do not know if that same reaction occurs with cast iron and stainless, but it is something to be concerned about in your case.
  • RL Chilton
    RL Chilton Administrator, Member
    junkcarfann wrote:
    When Stainless and regular steel, such as non-stainless bolts and nuts, are used together, something happens and the two become fused together.



    I made that mistake once on a motorcycle, used stainless nuts on two threaded studs that were part of the frame. Later, I had to chop the nuts off to disassemble it.



    I do not know if that same reaction occurs with cast iron and stainless, but it is something to be concerned about in your case.



    It's called galvanic corrosion and always occurs between two different materials mated together. It also occurs between some metals and wood. For example, steel screws and and most oaks will rot the wood (brass screws have to be used with most oaks).



    It happens as well between stainless and "steel" screws and the rate of corrosion is dependent upon exactly what alloys are involved.
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    I know that the cast iron block and original steel bolts rusted badly. I would think that stainless steel and cast iron would be some what better. Maybe not?
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    Scott wrote:
    I know that the cast iron block and original steel bolts rusted badly. I would think that stainless steel and cast iron would be some what better. Maybe not?
    SCOTT, it would take a chemist/metalurgest to give you a reliable answer to that. In my experience stainless steel in any other metal needs to be coated or you'll have problems REAL QUICK,. Again right or wrong I coat the threads with anti-seize , not a challenge but if someone knows something better we could all benefit from it.---BUD
  • RL Chilton
    RL Chilton Administrator, Member
    That's usually my experience, as well, Bud. Put a barrier coat between un-like metals (something that's going to last) and slow down the corrosion process. Anti-seize where you want it or Loc-tite where you need that.
  • ernie28
    ernie28 Expert Adviser
    35Terra wrote:
    And where would one buy the Molykote 111? I would like to try it on some paper gaskets of my own.



    Jim



    Jim



    I get it from an engineering supply company here in NZ. It is a Dow Corning (sp?) product but there are other equivilant ones available also. Am happy to do a purchase and post to you if required. Send me a PM if you cannot locate it where you are.



    Alistair
  • mars55
    mars55 Senior Contributor
    Molykote 111 is also known as Dow Corning 111. This company sells it.



    http://www.ellsworth.com/display/productlisting.html?ProductLineID=23&VendorID=138&SubcategoryID=106&Tab=Vendors&gclid=CMbpw6Og7JoCFSMSagodEkX0BQ
  • 35Terra
    35Terra Senior Contributor
    Alistair,



    Man I love this forum.



    Thanks for the offer. That's very generous of you.



    I did find it on Dow Corning's web site (Thanks goes to Mars55) and there is an option to get a sample from them. I also have our maintenance man (where I work) checking on a local contact for it. I'm sure I will find something close by.



    Thanks again for all the info on this forum.......:D



    Jim
This discussion has been closed.

Categories

In this Discussion