Stuk Hornet

Ol racer
Ol racer Senior Contributor
edited November -1 in HUDSON
FYI



I located a very low mile Hornet that has a stuck motor. Please share some of your personal methods that successfully 'unstuck' a Hornet motor'



Thanks, Chuck

Comments

  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    Chuck, unscrew the spark plugs and pour either Marvel mystery oil, transmission fluid, Kroil, or motor oil down each cylinder. Let this soak for about a week. Penetrating oil works best like Kroil of Liquid Wrench but the others will work as well just not as well as penetrating oil. Get a large wrench to fit over the bolt that holds on the harmonic balancer. . Turn the engine manually and see if you can break it loose. Sometimes you have to let it soak for longer. If you have a large ratchet wrench , you may want to try and put a cheater bar on for added leverage. Have fun.
  • 37 CTS
    37 CTS Senior Contributor
    Also check to see that the problem is caused by stuck clutch.

    When a HET sits a long time this can also be a problem.
  • bull_islander
    bull_islander Expert Adviser
    If I ever have anything stuck again, I'm using Kroil. This stuff beats all the others hands down. Some industrial shops have it or you can get it online at www.kanolabs.com .
  • jjbubaboy
    jjbubaboy Senior Contributor
    My local NAPA has KROIL and its great stuff!!

    T Jeff
  • oldhudsons
    oldhudsons Senior Contributor
    Yes, Kroil a good product.

    Another way to get a lot of pressure to turn over the engine is to use a pry bar on the flywheel esp. if you don't have the huge socket or open end wrench to put on the vibration dampener bolt (& they are expensive to buy!). This is also far easier to do if the engine is still in the car which you didn't say.
  • Ol racer
    Ol racer Senior Contributor
    Thanks for all the helpful replies.



    Some Interesting Info on this car is recently a person contacted me to go look at a1954 Hudson Hornet Sdn their grandparents owned and been garaged ever since they passed away in the '60's with only 17000 actual miles. It has the dual range Hydro.



    They wanted me to assess just what it would take to put back on the hwy safely for an occassional drive. Even though paint is faded they are not concerned with repainting, the interior is great, just needs some cleaning, and they wont consider selling it.



    Suprisingly, even here in northern Pa the typical underneath pontential areas for rot are not bad, even behind the skirt areas, probably because being elderly, they never drove it much in the winter. The tires hold air and it has scale underneath with the Exh intact except for the muffler. Probably up on a lift may find other things but its definitly worth restoring.



    I have too many projects myself but agreed to help them find a reasonable garage to bring the car up to par, since they cant really afford todays labor rates.



    If the motor frees up it may only need a valve job and along with some safety upgrades another Hudson mayl be seen in the area.....
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    Just saw this in Hemmings classic car mag. www.enginerelease.com Says 100% money back guarantee. Just for seized engines
  • RL Chilton
    RL Chilton Administrator, Member
    bull islander wrote:
    If I ever have anything stuck again, I'm using Kroil. This stuff beats all the others hands down. Some industrial shops have it or you can get it online at www.kanolabs.com .



    Kroil and PBlaster have been relegated to my secondary choice in the field of penetrating oils. Howe's Lubricating Products makes one called, (appropriately enough), HOWES LUBRICATING AND PENETRATING OIL, distributed by MAC Tools. I chased a MAC truck down and got mine from a local driver. Comes in a spray bottle. I've probably tried just about every penetrating oil that anyone can name, and there is no comparison for parts that have been seized together for decades. With Kroil, and others, I'd often have to combine the lubricant with vibratory impacting (when possible), and/or heat. Not with Howe's. A little time after soaking, 90% of the time, and the parts are coming free (assuming the rot isn't greater than the tensile strength).
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