pulled this hudson out of the weeds today

Unknown · August 2009

1953 hornet 4-door

right front block has # 248320, matches serial C7 248320

the mice have been at her, there a few rotted panels, but nothing 15 or 20 thousand dollars wont fix but it'll be a total teardown re-wire etc, and the interior is 100% shot.

came with the original owners manual and warranty card from the dealership, bought new from RB Frasier, Inc in Billings MT May 28th 1953 by LG and Wilma K. Borer of Forsythe MT. At least that what it it looks like, hard to read 50's cursive writing. anyway supposedly got driven (on her own power) out here from north dakota about 8 years ago and sat in the weeds ever since.

I saw a discussion re: youth an I'm 32, this is the first american car I've owned other than the 1990 f150 i drive to work in every day. really shouldnt have from a money perspective but after I saw it on the trailer in the parking lot at the goodguys show in puyallup i realized I was spending all my time thinking about it so I better get it or never forgive myself.

I figure every dollar I put into will add a dollar in value, and this is a better place to put my money than a bank these days. And she's twice as good lookin' as a 50 merc and I'd be out 15 grand for a merc with every single last piece of chrome(bumper is in back seat), knob, handle, trim-piece, everything, I do not think there is a single piece missing from this car other than the lower rear wheel skirts, but I havent got the trunk open yet so we'll see. boy I sure was happy to see them oil bath filters when i finally got the hood open.

tomorrow hopefully I'll get the seats and junk pulled out and go at the with a screwdriver and see how much rot we've got, i will be posting about a million photos of this in the next few weeks.

Unknown · August 2009

oh yeah also has a nash rambler drivers mirror - figure that got taken off by a fencepost somewhere in montana

faustmb · August 2009

Looks like you got yourself a nice project. Are those your VW's too?

Keep the pictures coming.

rambos_ride · August 2009

Hello,

I can't tell from the pics - 2dr or 4dr?

I grew up in Puyallup, my brothers a Sergeant on the Puyallup Police force (can't help with the tickets you'll get in the Hornet though

)

I currently live in Port Orchard, where are you located?

Having the Twin-H is definitely a plus!

Let me know if there's anything I can help with, sounds like you know to start checking for rust issues.

Here's a post I made on another thread that might help in your search for rust!

These cars are monobilt, Hudson's terminology for todays unibody construction. Meaning they don't have a full frame, only the front sub-frame and then the body tub.

The body tub has structural elements similar to a "frame" and the worst areas for rust are the outer perimieter rails in the rear, the side rails below the doors and the front body-to-sub frame connectors.

Any of these areas are repairable - but you'd want to take stock of the whole condition of the body tub, frame rails before starting or shipping off to someone else.

Take a look at my website, http://www.49c8.com under the Restoration section and Custom How To - > Trunk Pan and this should give you a good idea what to look for.

Then take some time with a pick and hammer or screwdriver and forcefully probe any areas that even remotely look rusted.

If I'd taken more time on my 49 I would not have gone forward with it and looked for a donor car.

Hope this helps

hudsontech · August 2009

Serial number 248320 was built in April 1953 - so fits with the paperwork you have.

Hudsonly,

Alex Burr

Memphis, TN

Jon B · August 2009

Welcome on board! Do consider joining the H-E-T (if you haven't already) becuase it's an invaluable clearinghouse for parts and technical information. And through your local chapter (should you decide to join) you'll tap into a network of fellow Hudson owners who can help you out.

Just one caution: please, carefully check the condition of the perimeter frame from the rear wheels on back, before you invest any time or money in this car. This is the one "Achilles heel" of the Hudson Step-Downs, and frame rot can add time and money to your restoration. If the car's properly garaged and maintained, frame rot is not inevitable, but many of these cars were left outside for years and time took its toll.

That said, I think you'll enjoy the challenge and sense of accomplishment working on your Hudson, and when you're done you'll have something that will turn heads at car shows. (If you get the car OUT to car shows, that is! For some reason a lot of Hudson owners don't want to share their car with others, at multi-make car meets!)

Kdancy · August 2009

BigBoy wrote:

1953 hornet 4-door

I figure every dollar I put into will add a dollar in value]

Would not want to discourage anyone from restoring a Hudson, but that is a loaded statement. A lot of variables. Depends on the quality of work and other factors. Very very few cars are marketable at the actual restoration cost. Do it for fun and education and you will not be disappointed. Do it thinking your are putting money in the bank and you will most likely be disappointed.

Browniepetersen · August 2009

All right, how is it that all of you are looking at photo's of the 53 and I am not? Did I forget to pay my dues??? I did not see from your profile where you are located but I am expecting that it is Montana? I am a member of the Chapter of the HET up there but live in Utah--Go Figure? A few folks you need to know in the local area up ther is: Dave Bean over in Missoula (beansdave@in-tch.com) Stu Coleman in Livingston(atascoleman@WISPWest.net). These folks are great resources not only for parts but also very knowledgable and have built a number of cars. Good luck with the project. The HET is strong and a bunch of great folks up there so get a hold of these folks and cannot wait to see progress photo's of your project.:):)

Unknown · August 2009

she's a four door

only major mod I'm considering would be suiciding the rear doors, it would look great with the handles flipped around right next to the front door handles. but thats a long long ways away

rambos_ride · August 2009

BigBoy wrote:

she's a four door

only major mod I'm considering would be suiciding the rear doors, it would look great with the handles flipped around right next to the front door handles. but thats a long long ways away

Suicide doors are a tough proposition on a stepdown. I started down that route on my 49 and stopped. The unibody construction and shape of the rear tub necessitates a single hinge instead of the standard kits.

Without a single hinge in the middle of the beltline, you can't get the hinge points close enough to the body and parallel, meaning the only way they work is if they swing way up - poor look and highly un-functional IMHO

This is the hinge you'd want to look at using

http://www.gtfactory.jp/180.htm

Otherwise to get the rear doors to clear the quarters it would look like this...

I've got pictures of this 4dr car you are talking about and 2 coupes that have had it done. All 3 of these cars had extensive frame and body modifications so I doubt that even if I could have viewed pictures the implementation would be different.

rambos_ride · August 2009

Hudson308 wrote:

That would be the hinge to use wouldn't it, Dan?
They sure are proud of 'em, though...

I'm not sure if that is 499.00 each or a pair?

Seems like a high price - but, they used to be 800.00!

Seriously though, after my foray into trying to design a system myself

1) I concluded a single hinge system is the only way to go on a stepdown. It's the only way you can get the hinge mounting at the belt line and close enough to the inside-quarter to clear, the sheet metal.

2) For the time and materials I spent on my failed attempt, either 500.00 each or 500.00 a pair is still less overall price for an engineered setup (my free time is worth at least as much as I make OTJ ! The 180 feature is a plus too!)

Maybe someday I can get some for the 49, if I can find a job and keep my house in this cr@p-hole of a economy.

Aaron D. IL · August 2009

You poor poor boy. LOL Welcome to our padded room!! Worst case scenario if you can't handel a welding torch for perimeter frame issues or know someone that can handel a torch at a reasonable cost..... you could probbaly get a good parts-car sedan frame. I think you'll be alright. Even with rust these cars are almost never in danger of falling apart in my experience. I'd echo one of the other posts to say that you need to do this because you love it not because of any potential return on investment. Be ok with it if you are stuck with the car. But to be fair.....yeah there's not many good investments out there these days. LOL

[Deleted User] · August 2009

Great to see a young guy and a hudson I was 19 when I found a 53 coupe in a junk yard in upstate ny for $350 when I opened the trunk I found more treasure, Allumium head, Chrome piece's etc. hope you find even more, good luck and enjoy otto54

essexcoupe3131 · August 2009

rambos_ride wrote:

Suicide doors are a tough proposition on a stepdown. I started down that route on my 49 and stopped. The unibody construction and shape of the rear tub necessitates a single hinge instead of the standard kits.

Without a single hinge in the middle of the beltline, you can't get the hinge points close enough to the body and parallel, meaning the only way they work is if they swing way up - poor look and highly un-functional IMHO

This is the hinge you'd want to look at using

http://www.gtfactory.jp/180.htm

Otherwise to get the rear doors to clear the quarters it would look like this...

Hey Dan, that's the 1st time i have seen the doors on your car way too cool

mike

rambos_ride · August 2009

essexcoupe3131 wrote:

Hey Dan, that's the 1st time i have seen the doors on your car way too cool

mike

Sorry, not my car...

I'd want the doors to swing open level - the ones pictured swing way up at an angle.

Uncle Josh · August 2009

You could just get yourself a 36 (or prior) Hudson or Terraplane. All 4 doors are already suicidal.

[Deleted User] · August 2009

BigBoy wrote:

I figure every dollar I put into will add a dollar in value

Good luck on that one. You have a four-door, not a ragtop or a coupe. Even then, far more cars end up in a negative situation. Are you doing all of the work, because even though you are not "paying" yourself for your work, it's still worth something. You will be farming things out that can not be done at home at all (chroming and such). More $$$. And twenty g's won't restore that, just so you are aware. It'll make it a nice driver, though. You will probably be $$$ ahead finding a done or nearly-done car and perhaps hanging on to this one as a parts car, or selling it instead, if you believe that the car is better than a bank account. Cars are money pits, so make sure this pit is what you really want. The old rule of thumb on car builds is: Take what you think the resto/build costs are, multiply that by three, and add another 50% of that amount, and you are close.

Best of luck to you, though. Not trying to discourage you at all, just trying to shine the light of realism on this Hudson. Just build it for your tastes, drive it and enjoy it. If you build it to sell thinking like your above statement, you will be horribly disappointed. Guys building half-million dollar musclecars think the same way initially, but after the first million into the project, it wakes them up.

Unknown · August 2009

one old boy seems to think I have a high altitude, anyway to tell from the outside?

RL Chilton · August 2009

High Altitude car typically refers to the way the carbs are jetted/set-up (chokes included), more than anything else.

pulled this hudson out of the weeds today

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