Running board glue???

[Deleted User]
[Deleted User]
edited November -1 in HUDSON
I'm having problems getting the new rubber for my '37 TP running boards to stick to the metal. Any ideas on what glue/cement to use and ideas on prep?:confused:

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  • Richard E.
    Richard E. Senior Contributor
    Use contact cement. Remember, apply to both surfaces and let dry, then put them together. It helps to use wax paper over the metal after the cement dries, as you put the rubber on to it. That way it only contacts as you are ready for it, because once it contacts, that is where it will want to stay. So take your time, the wax paper won't stick to the contact cement, it only sticks to itself. You can get it at Home Depot or really any paint store, etc.
  • Park_W
    Park_W Senior Contributor
    My wife's wax paper from the kitchen worked fine.
  • russmaas
    russmaas Senior Contributor
    I didn't have much luck with contact cement especially when it turn down. Instructions said to use crazy glue but that wasn't much help. If I was to do it again I would probably use contact cement on top then use an epoxy from lowes and wrap the whole thing in siran wrap and it it sit a day.

    The epoxy is by the paint section and come out easy but will take about 4 tubes.

    Russ
  • bellbigdawg
    bellbigdawg Expert Adviser
    bed liner would only work if you filled in the thousand holes first, then filled in the big "bracket divits" on the top of the boards. it would be the same as if you were painting them. too bad the boards are not what they seem when the original rubber is on them.
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    All great ideas, gents. I had the installation instructions from k-gap at one time, but I can't seen to find them anywhere. The big problem is getting the sides to stay down while the glue is setting. Would wood clamps, or perhaps locking pliers work, with say, a 1x4 or 1x2 clamped along the length of the running board help?
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    Try carpet cement. once its down ,its down
  • 37 CTS
    37 CTS Senior Contributor
    When I installed my running board mats on my 29H, I scuffed the bottom side of the mat with steel wool or a scotchbrite pad to scuff the surface so it was not smooth, this allows the glue to dig in and adhere better. I used brushable rubber body side moulding glue from a body shop supply store

    After a day of clamping down the mats,using some plywood, a day or two in the sun cured the glue and flattened the mats down and took care of bubbles.
  • RL Chilton
    RL Chilton Administrator, Member
    37 CTS wrote:
    When I installed my running board mats on my 29H, I scuffed the bottom side of the mat with steel wool or a scotchbrite pad to scuff the surface so it was not smooth, this allows the glue to dig in and adhere better. I used brushable rubber body side moulding glue from a body shop supply store

    After a day of clamping down the mats,using some plywood, a day or two in the sun cured the glue and flattened the mats down and took care of bubbles.



    Lots of good ideas here, but this is the best so far. Really a good example of "How many ways are there to skin a cat". Answer: a bunch, but only one really right way.



    Another good adhesive would be 3M weatherstrip glue, but depending on the thickness of the rubber, might not "even out" enough not to leave bumps. I would not use the contact cement you buy at Home Depot type stores. Heat is going to be a killer on that any longevity is going to be a factor. Also, if you go this route, wax paper is the way to go. Dowels work, but better with rigid materials. The rubber might require too many dowels (or better small square dowels so they don't roll around on you) placed close together to be practical, but would still work. Clamps and weights would work fine, as well, if needed.

    3M also makes a spray glue in aerosol can that works like an adhesive, would weather well, go on uniformly and works like a contact cement. In time if needed, it could easily be removed and re-done. The brushable type of contact cement that comes in a can (and used for laminates), if it lasted, would require the removal of rubber by chisel.





    On a lighter note, this thread's title threw me for a loop when I first read it.

    "Running board glue???". I'm in the middle of reading Public Enemies, and have yet to see the new movie made from the book. An interesting tidbit was that bankrobbers in the thirties would often grab hostages during the ensuing escape after a bank job and, not only use them as human shields, but also hold their arms from inside the car whilst the hostages were left standing on the running boards. My first thought was, hmmm. Running board glue . . . yeah, that way they didn't have to hold their arms!!:D
  • bellbigdawg
    bellbigdawg Expert Adviser
    I have blasted, epoxy prime powdercoated, then urethane powdercoated on top of the epoxy. when using the KGAP running board rubbers, what do you do with the 1/2" deep or deeper divits in the boards where the bracket mount channel is tacked on? do you just fill them with rubber like Hudson did originally, or bondo them up, or???? anyone got ideas on this?? do the KGAP running board rubbers go over the front and rear fender mount areas like the originals do?? I am getting ready to buy these, and for that price want to do right also. buy the way, these running boards are from my 41 pickup.:D
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