Electrical woes
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Well, here I am again, hat in hand and asking for help. My generator doesn't seem to be generating, the brushes are only half worn at most but if I put a volt meter on the battery I'm only getting 6.1 volts, if I turn on the lights I'm getting 5.95 volts, at the generator post I'm only getting 1.1 volts. I'm on my third regulator now and I don't think it's the regulator. I'm guessing the generator is giving up the ghost. I have a couple of options in mind, rebuild the 6 volt system and live with dim lights on the dash and headlights, put on a 6 volt alternator and still not have the brightest lights, or go 12 volts and change all the lights, the radio but not have the original system, I'm not sure how important it is to keep the electrical system original. I think it would be nice to have a modern sound system and dash lights that actually let me see how fast I'm going at night. My main question is if I change to 12 volt system to I have to change the pertronix ignition of do I just add a resistor to the coil and the ignition will be alright? Walt, I think you might have the answers I'm looking for but I would like to hear all opinions on the pros and cons of changing.
Harry
Harry
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Harry, connect a wire from t he field terminal to ground and check the voltage at the A terminal with the engine running at speed. It should be about 9 volts. If not it is definitely a generator fault. You need to take it to an auto-electrical repair shop. If that makes it charge it is the regulator.
Geoff.0 -
I live in an urban area so dim lighting is not much of an issue keeping the 6V system. I found I could see fine what makes the difference is making sure all the grounds on the car are clean and tight. How often are you driving this car? How much of it is night driving ?0
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Geoff, thank you, I'll test it out and let you know what I find,
Aaron, I live in a rural area and lights are very important, not to many street lights around here, some winding canyon roads. I drive often enough at night that it is a worry and won't take the Hudson many times because of the lights. I don't mind the six volt system but if I have to start spending money on it I think the money would be better spent going to twelve volts.
Harry0 -
Harry, don't blame 6V for the brightness of your lights. I bet your running the origonal wiring which by design is adequate for the job. the problem is that is 50+ years old. 50 years of oxidation on the wire strands and terminations are the problem.
once you get your charging system up to par you could run a heavy gauge wire from the battery to the one of the headlight terminations and see the difference having the wiring up to par would make. A headlight relay is a band aid for this situation if a proper rewire is not an option right now.
12V is not a cure, it is only a mask.0 -
Nick, I agree that a new wiring job would improve things but I also know that on more than one occasion I have driven faster than 6 volt lights could keep up with. Maybe 6 volt halogens would help but I'm wondering if those improvement are worth the effort when 12 volts will make so many modern improvements possible. If I keep running a 6 volt radio I have to learn spanish so I can understand the songs. What I really need instead of a heavier wire is a whole new wiring loom. I kind of doubt if anyone is making one for the 55 Hash. You are correct though in saying that the 54 year old wiring is in bad shape. First thing I need though is figure out if the generator is working.
Harry0 -
When I bought my '51 Hornet someone converted it to 12 volts. The Bendex was slamming into the ring gear and ruined both. I converted it back to 6 volts and have had no problems. But my wiring and ground are good. You can't get any darker at night than it is here. That's when I use high beam. Plenty of light for me. Nick is right. Check or replace your wiring first, as you would just have bad wiring on a 12 volt.There are people which can convert your radio to AM/FM 6 volt, and it will still look stock. Only you would know.0
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We've been down this road before on the forum, and I did a W.T.N. article a few years ago as well. You need a good earth, a relay, and q-h bulbs, and you will have lights as good as any 12 volt system. Remember, wattage is wattage no matter what voltage. A 36 watt 6 volt will put out the same light as a 36 watt 24 volt, providing you have the full 6 volts there.
Geoff.0 -
This is why I was asking for opinions, good advice here. I can see the advantage of staying 6 volts, starting is not an issue, so I just need to replace the wiring. If my generator is bad would you suggest going with an alternator?
Harry0 -
I have no experience with alternators. I have found the original generators to be extremely long-lived and reliable units. I fitted a two-brush Auto-lite generator and regulator to my Essex in 1963, and since then I have fitted one set of brushes. It is still going perfectly.0
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Putting in new brushes in a generator is a fast easy, (cheap) job. When an alternator goes out- throw it away !0
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Assuming that your insulation is in good shape ,check out the "A"terminal info before and make sure your reg is well grounded( for test , go to the ground on the batt( + on the 55) with a wire and alligator clips. Geoff is also correct. A headlight relay is the best @$30 you will ever spend. Go on line to Fifth Ave auto parts in Kansas.They make a fine one with great instructions. Only problem is much of the installation is on the floor dimmer switch. If the insulation is bad than you might have some wire repair to do. And in addition you will probably never replace a headlight circuit breaker again.0
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Guys, all good info, when I check the generator do I disconnect the wires from the regulator so as not to damage it when I put the field to ground? I'm thinking I should disconnect the wires then ground the field and check the armature with a volt meter. I should be getting close to 9 volts if all is correct, if not then change the brushes, I should probably clean the commentator. If I'm getting 9 volts then my voltage regulator is out again and needs to be replaced. That and we all know I need to rewire the car.0
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No, you don't need to disconnect anything, you are simply by-passing the regulator. if this makes the generator charge, then you need to look at the regulator. Perhaps it is only dirty points on the voltage coil. This will stop the generator charging. Try running a 400 grit piece of sandpaper through the points, followed by a tissue and methylated spriits to clean them. Another way to test the generator is to ground the field terminal, remove the fan belt, and manually close the cut-out points inthe regulator (next to the "A" terminal. The generator should revolve. If not the generatotor is crook. Also double check that the battery is indeed positive ground, if reversed will cause the voltage points to burn. Just a few tips. Good luck,
Geoff.0 -
Thanks Geoff, my battery is positive grounded. I'll let you know the outcome when it cools off a bit and I can go outside and work.
Harry0 -
Geoff, I grounded the field and checked the voltage at the armature, I'm getting about 2 volts on my volt meter, but my battery is still showing 6 volts. That doesn't make sense as it should be dropping each time I start it. The amp light does dim slightly when I rev the engine but I don't see the points closing when the engine is running, I don't see any change of the points running or off. I think I'll pull the generator and have it checked for a short if I can find someone who will still work on one.
Harry0 -
Harry-
I sent you a PM.0 -
Harry, this indicates that the fault is indeed in the generator.0
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I took the generator apart yesterday and cleaned everything up but it hasn't improved the output any. It looks like a need a new source for power. There must be a short somewhere in the generator, the brushes are almost the same length as a new set of brushes I have here. The commentator, I believe that is what the brushes ride on seems to be pretty well worn. There is quite a step from where the brushes ride to where there is no wear. I'm thinking that may be part of the problem.0
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Harry, you really need to take this in to a shop to get the commutator turned, and the field and armature connections checked, and the armature checked for open-circuits.
Geoff.0 -
Thanks Geoff, I'm not sure I can find any one working on generators around here any longer, I'll start trying tomorrow though. If not I'll just put a alternator on the car. Thanks for showing me the correct spelling on the commutator, I knew I wasn't getting it correct I just couldn't remember the correct word.
Harry0 -
Harry
I am sure Bill or Jason at Albrights TWIN H Ranch will know who in the area is able to resolve your generator rebuild needs. Check with Craig Kesler (sp?) too, in the past Craig made his living working on cars.0 -
I'll call Bill tomorrow. I took the generator to the shop today and it is dead when tested. Test consists of putting power to the armature, it didn't spin. He was supposed to test further but got called away so I won't know until the morning what he finds.
Harry0
This discussion has been closed.
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