Brakelight switch
Ok, I will be the first to admit that this probably a punishment from a higher source. I have not been diligent in driving my Hudson at all this summer. No excuses.
I went out to start the beast today and had to jump start it for the second time in almost seven years. As soon as I got juice to it, I noticed that the brake lights were stuck on. Probably the source of no juice to start the car.
I looked for other threads, regarding brakelight switches, that I thought I have seen in the past, but couldn't find any.
Since I have not had any other electrical issues, do you think I am probably chasing the right source?
I haven't even had the time to look for the switch. Is it located on the master cylinder as with most other cars?
Oh yea, it's a 52 Hornet.
Thanks in advance for your help!
Terry
I went out to start the beast today and had to jump start it for the second time in almost seven years. As soon as I got juice to it, I noticed that the brake lights were stuck on. Probably the source of no juice to start the car.
I looked for other threads, regarding brakelight switches, that I thought I have seen in the past, but couldn't find any.
Since I have not had any other electrical issues, do you think I am probably chasing the right source?
I haven't even had the time to look for the switch. Is it located on the master cylinder as with most other cars?
Oh yea, it's a 52 Hornet.
Thanks in advance for your help!
Terry
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Comments
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What kind of brake fluid are you using?0
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I think Russ is on to it as the new stuff eats the senders.0
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I would have to look, but I bought it at Napa. I have a Hudson master cylinder, but Chrysler front disc brakes, so I know I bought HD fluid. I don't even know if I still have the container.0
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For the brakelight switch, try NAPA SL134 or Standard SLS-27. This part is still in the catalogs.0
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There you go. For future reference, silicone brake fluid works quite well, as long as you change the brake light sending unit.0
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Once again, it's not so much as what you know, but who you know that knows more than you!
Thanks for the part #'s too!
Thanks guys.0 -
mars55 wrote:For the brakelight switch, try NAPA SL134 or Standard SLS-27. This part is still in the catalogs.
So, either will work? When I do my break job this winter I plan to switch over to silicone, and will need a new switch.0 -
mjsandbe wrote:So, either will work? When I do my break job this winter I plan to switch over to silicone, and will need a new switch.0
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walt's garage-53 wrote:You can not just change over to silicone. You will have to put all new wheel cylinders and the 3 flex hoses, and flush out all steel brake lines with Brake-Kleen. Will not mix with dot 3 or 4. If you need the parts, we have a club in southern CA that carries all the new parts, not rebuilt. Lets keep our clubs selling parts and the price is right. Walt.
My brakes are full of sludge and needs to be completely flushed, master cylinder rebuilt, rear wheel cylinders rebuilt or replaced. Since I have to do all of that, it seems to make sense to change the fluid over to silicone at the same time.
The front wheel cylinders are new (Thank you Russell) but I owe Russell two new ones. Walt, Please send me the contact and pricing information.0 -
Hudson308 wrote:Kahuna;
Carefully unplug one of the two wires on the sender first to determine if this is the source of your problem.
Mike;
Silicone brake fluid is not necessarily the slam-dunk you'd think it was. True, it performs better than "standard" brake fluid types and doesn't draw moisture like they do, but it will find leaks easier and seems to eat brake switch senders.
Also, if you use NOS rubber in the cylinders or brake hoses, the rubber may swell. You must make sure that the rubber is compatible with Silicone brake fluid. Another thing to consider is that while Silicone brake fluid does not absorb water, the mositure that is generated will accomulate in the low areas of the system and (still) cause corrosion problems.
Goggle Silicone brake fluid, and you will come up with a myriad of opinions.0 -
mdwhit wrote:Also, if you use NOS rubber in the cylinders or brake hoses, the rubber may swell. You must make sure that the rubber is compatible with Silicone brake fluid. Another thing to consider is that while Silicone brake fluid does not absorb water, the mositure that is generated will accomulate in the low areas of the system and (still) cause corrosion problems.
Goggle Silicone brake fluid, and you will come up with a myriad of opinions.
OK, after a little research, silicone brake fluid is out.0 -
So, there are actually brakelight switches (that fit our Hudsons) that aren't affected by silicone? That's good, because I thought that all of the switches were.
I've been using silicone in my '37 Terraplane for at least 15 years with no problems, but older Hudsons like mine use mechanical brakelight switches, so no danger of silicone leakage there!0 -
Jon B wrote:So, there are actually brakelight switches (that fit our Hudsons) that aren't affected by silicone? That's good, because I thought that all of the switches were.
I've been using silicone in my '37 Terraplane for at least 15 years with no problems, but older Hudsons like mine use mechanical brakelight switches, so no danger of silicone leakage there!
Funny, but the only thing that did not fail in my brake system after converting to Silicone brake fluid, was the hydraulic stop light switch! As I said all rubber componets had some swelling. The M/C had NOS rubber and it swelled so badly that the piston became stuck. The wheel cylinders were fitted with newer Napa rubber cups, but also appeared to have some miminal swelling.
One important point I should add is that although it was in a sealed container, the Silicone brake fluid I had used was some of the original product produced by GE. In my post research on Silicone brake fluid problems, there was some discussion that the earlier Silicone brake fluid did cause some swelling of the rubber.
All and all though, based on my research, I chose to go back to a DOT 4 formula. Additionally, I might add that my brakes are more responsive with the conventional brake fluid. If you bleed your brakes every 2 years, you should never have any corrsion problems with conventional brake fluid. Also, Dot 4 brake fluid is a lot less expensive than Silicone brake fluid.
Just my personal opinion, but it is based on a fair amount of research...0 -
Michael-
For the record, we did NOT use silicone brake fluid here at my house on your car. We used Dot4. My suggestion is do your own research and make up your own mind. This subject is fraught with debate and will continue to be that way. Practical experience (in the end) will determine your final course of action.0 -
I've been using silicone Dot 5 brake fluid in my Super Jet for over 20 years, and the car still has the factory original brake light switch working as intended.
Jerry
53jetman0 -
53jetman wrote:I've been using silicone Dot 5 brake fluid in my Super Jet for over 20 years, and the car still has the factory original brake light switch working as intended.
Jerry
53jetman
Jerry-
I've heard the stories both ways, about 50/50. For every story like yours, I've heard the "failing brake light switch" story as well. Could be some co-incidence with the age of the part itself. Also, whenever "new" parts are included but not completely (like replacing one wheel cylinder), sometimes it causes the older parts to go ahead and give out, just because the rest of the hydraulics are newer, stronger. Makes the parts that were weak before go ahead and give out.0 -
53jetman wrote:I've been using silicone Dot 5 brake fluid in my Super Jet for over 20 years, and the car still has the factory original brake light switch working as intended.
Jerry
53jetman
That's because it's a Super Jet, and we both know that Super Jets are the most advanced car Hudson ever produced.:D0 -
Amen!
Jerry
53jetman0
This discussion has been closed.
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