Building the 308

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  • Unknown
    Unknown
    Dave

    I am in the process of updating my website but this is a link from the site to the pictures you need...

    http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://sc.groups.msn.com/tn/4C/A1/HudsonMotorCarCoMessageBoard/12/bb.jpg&imgrefurl=http://groups.msn.com/HudsonMotorCarCoMessageBoard/original7xmachinework.msnw&h=72&w=96&sz=3&tbnid=raYri4Wwk3aT6M:&tbnh=57

    c6.jpg
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    Heart Of Texas wrote:
    Dave



    I am in the process of updating my website but this is a link from the site to the pictures you need...



    http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://sc.groups.msn.com/tn/4C/A1/HudsonMotorCarCoMessageBoard/12/bb.jpg&imgrefurl=http://groups.msn.com/HudsonMotorCarCoMessageBoard/original7xmachinework.msnw&h=72&w=96&sz=3&tbnid=raYri4Wwk3aT6M:&tbnh=57



    c6.jpg





    Hi Ken,



    Thanks. Hurry up, I can't function without your web site! LOL
  • TwinH
    TwinH Senior Contributor
    Great reading fellas. The 308 that came in my 49C8 has developed a bit of a

    knock thats not gonna go away. Good thing is it also came with a rebuilt 308

    (head and pan never installed) with a fresh bore and pistons.I'll have to go clear through it as I bought it from an estate with no info on it. Current engine is

    modified with a full flow oil filter,Clifford head and header,Crane ignition,

    Hydraulic lifters,and probably a stock cam. Compression test shows 165-175

    psi on all the cylinders. This seems pretty high to me but surely must be

    a pretty short duration cam. I'm just following this thread for future reference

    and kind of wondering what you consider good cranking compression to be.

    Thanks, Jeff Lynn
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    How much material can you machine off the head surface before you get into valve clearance issues .040" to .060" safe?
  • Ol racer
    Ol racer Senior Contributor
    A lot depends on your cam Lift and wether head milled previously.... I measured my lift and the exh chamber depths, then added the compressed gasket thickness to learn I could safely mill .080.(Be certain to check all Exh chamber depths, and plan to use shorter reach s/plugs).
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    A lot of great stuff in this thread. Anyone have any new info to add?
  • 464Saloon
    464Saloon Senior Contributor
    Well on head milling I can warn you not to go too far. I put my motor together with a 262 head that I milllled to obtain an 8.7 to 1 ratio. Ran good for 21 miles then the head failed right over the number 1 cylinder. Blew right into the thermostat and bent it.
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    This is studhuds block from the hamb forum. There is also some good picks on the Hudson Boys web site
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    464Saloon wrote:
    Well on head milling I can warn you not to go too far. I put my motor together with a 262 head that I milllled to obtain an 8.7 to 1 ratio. Ran good for 21 miles then the head failed right over the number 1 cylinder. Blew right into the thermostat and bent it.



    Rob, Was that just a thin spot in that particular area, or is that inherent of the 262 heads? How many thousandths did you mill off?
  • terraplane8
    terraplane8 Senior Contributor
    There's some great discussion and info on this 14 page thread as well, FWIW: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=391692
  • 464Saloon
    464Saloon Senior Contributor
    DaveFury wrote:
    Rob, Was that just a thin spot in that particular area, or is that inherent of the 262 heads? How many thousandths did you mill off?

    Well I took .060 off but I didn't know how much had been taken off before. I was so focused on getting the chamber down to the size I wanted for the compression that I didn't ask anyone what a safe number was or for the matter how to measure the head to see how much had been taken off before. I have learned that you should not go over .100 no matter what. Being a casting you will not have perfect uniform thickness. Apparently a thin spot was right in the #1 chamber and it literally blew through and damaged the thermostat.
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    Rob, I was looking at the picture of the block and it looked like there is a crack in the #5 cylinder from the cylinder wall to the intake valve seat. Is this an optical illusion or is it really cracked.
    Just asking.
    thanks
    Bob
  • Kdancy
    Kdancy Senior Contributor
    walt's garage-53 wrote:
    I guess you have not read Walt Mordenti's Hudson traveling stories. I rebuilt my engine in 1998, found a new speedometer, zero miles, and today it reads 104,050 miles. That makes it more than a every day traveler. So far 9 trips across this country, coast to coast and still on the same engine as I rebuilt it. Rob has seen this car and he knows it will fly. I'm telling Rob to build a good stock engine and just clean up the ports, match the manifolds to the block and fly. My engine will cruise 500 miles a day for 6 days to reach Connecticut from San Francisco and at times, top speed 90 plus. Gas mileage, 18 to 22, just check with someone that does the Laughlin run. Who needs all that junk. I have air condition, power rack and pinion and a 2.73 Dana rear and still fly up hills to 14,000 feet. Ask anyone that follows me. Do as I say Rob and you will surprise a lot of people. Walt.

    Walt, will you expound more on the Power Rack and Pinion set up?
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    464Saloon wrote:
    Hey Guys,

    As some of you know, I didn't make it back from the Western Regional due to engine failure. Well we finally got the car home and started tearing into the engine in hopes that maybe some minor repairs would save the day, but no such luck. It was more than obvious that the motor had a lot more miles on it than described by the previous owners who were Hudson Club members ( the surprises never stop on this car, but we won't go there now) but the clincher was the broken #2 piston. The crank has already been turned .010 the number 5 piston is completely different than the other 5, two different head bolts were used,5/8 head and 11/16 head, and what appears to be a 262 head gasket with the 262 head on a 308. This I think led to premature engine failure as the metal ring of the gasket was in the combustion chambers and being slammed by the pistons. Not pretty.

    Anyway I would like some suggestions and inputs on building a stout engine. I hope to only do this once ( at least on this car).
    How far can I bore it,can I offset grind the crank for more cubes, how about bigger valves,bigger cam,balancing,grinding and shotpeening the rods, porting and relieving. It is a 54 block so some relieving has been done. How about that 262 head,keep it or change it? I think Hudsonator and Randy Maas will have some good input on stepping the motor up but I am open to everyones ideas. Not looking for a drag car but since the opportunity is here and it ain't going to be cheap,I might as well step it up. More than 7X but not full race. Car is a Hornet Special 2 dr so pretty light car. No power options and manual trans,so definately a sleeper. So lets have some fun and build a 308.

    Thanks,
    Walt answered your e-mail but it came back, unknown.
  • SuperDave
    SuperDave Senior Contributor
    Kdancy wrote:
    Walt, will you expound more on the Power Rack and Pinion set up?



    I think Walt put a Mopar front clip in his Hudson..:)
  • Kdancy
    Kdancy Senior Contributor
    Walt,

    I updated my e-mail setting. It should be fine now.
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