232 headbolt leaks
Comments
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Its important that the threads in the block and the bolt threads are clean.
Use a 7/16 UNC 14 TPI tap to clean out the bolt holes and wirebrush the bolt threads. Then apply the sealant of your choice.
In the Loctite range there is are products for sealing bolts and studs into water jackets, I've used 243 successfully in the past.0 -
Thanks I will do this! and see how it works.0
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alexa2 wrote:My 232 engine leaks water around some of the headbolts, will a non hardening gasket sealer around the threads fix this?
Alex... long time since you have posted here. How is retirement?
I have often wondered if you completed the restoration of your Pacemaker. Hope we hear more about your car!
Best Regards
Ken0 -
bob ward wrote:Its important that the threads in the block and the bolt threads are clean.
Use a 7/16 UNC 14 TPI tap to clean out the bolt holes and wirebrush the bolt threads. Then apply the sealant of your choice.
In the Loctite range there is are products for sealing bolts and studs into water jackets, I've used 243 successfully in the past.
ALEX , DO NOT run a tap in the holes , it takes out a tiny bit of metal each time --USE A THREAD CHASER--Then go to the hardware and get you some MASTER PLUMBER YELLOW FORMULA 55 THREAD SEAL . does a super job , Don't be stingy , lay it on plenty and retorgue as soon as it warms up and repeat torgue untill it stays, check it several days to be sure --- BUD0 -
37 Terraplane#2 wrote:
ALEX , DO NOT run a tap in the holes , it takes out a tiny bit of metal each time
Granted, if you are hamfisted, it is possible to damage an existing thread with a tap, especially at the entrance.
Apart from that, any metal removal is truly microscopic and insignificant. Maybe if you repeatedly clean a thread with a tap you will cause measurable wear.
But cleaning out a 7/16" UNC head bolt thread with a tap twice or thrice during its career will definitely not reduce its useful life.0 -
bob ward wrote:
----It is far from my intent to be arguementive--Granted, if you are hamfisted, it is possible to damage an existing thread with a tap, especially at the entrance.
Apart from that, any metal removal is truly microscopic and insignificant. Maybe if you repeatedly clean a thread with a tap you will cause measurable wear.
But cleaning out a 7/16" UNC head bolt thread with a tap twice or thrice during its career will definitely not reduce its useful life.
rather educational for those less experienced--run a tap in an old hole and look at how much metal is on it when you take it out , there will be some . We have no way of knowing how many times a head gasket has been replaced on these old engines or allready had a tap run in the holes . and why would we want to remove ANY metal when we allready have enough clearance that it leaks . Why not just use the thread chaser as it is the best tool for the job , that's why they make them---BUD0 -
I agree with 37 terraplane #2. A tap will cut the existing threads because the threads are somewhat pulled upward after torque or slightly distorted. A thread chaser is the way to go. If you run a tap through, you'll lessen the holding percentage of the head bolt. I think we all agree we want the most holding % possible. Jim0
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I am unfamiliar with the aformentioned "thread-chaser". Can you please explain how they work differently from a tap?0
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Here is a thread chaser it cleans the threads but has no cutting surfaces in it like a tap does. You choose the thread size and spin it into the thread cleaning the threads. I have this set it works great. Also have the external set for bolts and studs.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=9706&group_ID=1150&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog0 -
There are also others that look like a tap but as said have no cutting edge . This set above is good in that there is plenty of room for the crud to fall out--- Can get them at about any real good hardware store or auto parts that sells tools . . True Value has them in my town . 55 sets of different types on Ebay now--- BUD0
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Thank you for that. We learn something new every day. I'll have to see if they are available here.0
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Found this on another forum;
It's possible to make your own thread chaser by taking a bolt with the correct thread and cutting 3 or 4 vertical slots equidistant from each other on the length of the bolt threads. The depth of the cut should be down to just beyond the minor diameter of the thread.
Just to add a to this, make sure to use a grade 8 or better bolt! Also make sure the slots are evenly spaced and the threads are thoroughly de-burred after the slots are cut, use a soft bolt, poorly cut slots or fail to de-burr and it is very easy to get a home made thread chaser cross threaded in the hole. It is a good idea with these home made chasers to run a proper sized nut onto the modified bolt several times using anti-seize before attempting to repair any damaged threads with it. Some people may scoff at doing this but I have done it many times and have had really good success with it, the trick is to be careful with the slots and to use a hard bolt and anti-seize.0 -
hudsonguy wrote:Found this on another forum;
It's possible to make your own thread chaser by taking a bolt with the correct thread and cutting 3 or 4 vertical slots equidistant from each other on the length of the bolt threads. The depth of the cut should be down to just beyond the minor diameter of the thread.
Just to add a to this, make sure to use a grade 8 or better bolt! Also make sure the slots are evenly spaced and the threads are thoroughly de-burred after the slots are cut, use a soft bolt, poorly cut slots or fail to de-burr and it is very easy to get a home made thread chaser cross threaded in the hole. It is a good idea with these home made chasers to run a proper sized nut onto the modified bolt several times using anti-seize before attempting to repair any damaged threads with it. Some people may scoff at doing this but I have done it many times and have had really good success with it, the trick is to be careful with the slots and to use a hard bolt and anti-seize.
I recently had to replace a starter on a 99 Chrysler. The owner tried to do it and cross threaded the top metric bolt that threads into an alluminum housing. I used the same trick by grinding three grooves in the original bolt
. I Just held it straight and slowly worked it back and forth until it cut new threads. it's working fine. Last resort would have been to helicoil it, but...Not much room to fool around on these newer cars!0 -
Thanks guys, I just used gasket cement in the holes one bolt out and in at a time and got the leaks stopped. I am not going to tempt fate with any modifications at this time. Ken, I have not got the Hudson on the road, but am going to work on her full time now. My wife had me do a 59 Jeep so we could travel with it first. It was a basket case like the Hudson and took a year to get done. The Hudson engine is almost done. It has a leak at the top seal of the oil pump, a front seal leak and a rear seal leak. I have ordered gaskets for the oil pump and front seal. I will live with the rear seal, I have tried to fix it three times and failed three times. I think I will design some kind of oil catcher for it. I think a funnel end with a hose to a cannister should work.0
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