adjusting auto trans

[Deleted User]
[Deleted User]
edited November -1 in HUDSON
The trans in my '53 coupe slips or hesitates a bit when shifting from 2nd to 3rd. I attribute this to stupidly trying a couple years ago to start an unstartable engine by pulling the car at 25 miles an hour, and dropping the trans into 3-4 position on the quadrant. Its a long and woefull tale, but the end result of that fiasco was I noticed smoke wafting up from the filler cap, (I had the mats and the covers off at the time) so could see what was going on, and gave that stupid idea up pronto when I noticed that smoke !!



However, the trans still works ok, and I drive the car all over the place without worrying it won't get me home, but that 2nd-third slippy shift is a bit emberassing when I'm showing off the car's extraordinary acceleration to a potential Hudson admirer, or starry eyed youngster.



Since I don't have tool such and such, and gismo number j-6854, or whatever it is that the manual says "real" Hudson mechanics would use to fix this in the old days, my plan is as follows:



I'll pull up the floor mats, take the cover off over the adjusting screws, loosen the locknut for the FRONT band, (which I think is the closest one to the engine), while making sure the adjusting screw does not move while loosening the adjusting nut --- then tighten down the adjusting screw (say half a turn), lock it down in the new position with the locknut, and go for a little test drive. If still not enough improvement, then do another half-turn, and go again.



My question is this, am I on the right track here, or am I just about to make my life a lot more miserable ? Am I adjusting the right thing, for the right band? I realize I should be starting at the carbs, setting the rpm's with a tach, adjusting the linkages, etc. etc. but with "old stuff", loose tolerances, (especially in the linkages), the flapper valve in the manifold for choke heat gone, among other variables, I think I'd better just settle for good enough, instead of my usual quest for perfection.



Can anyone help me at least get started off in the right direction here ? Some advice before grabbing the wrenches would be much appreciated.



Thanks,



Ryan (silverone)

Comments

  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    silverone wrote:
    The trans in my '53 coupe slips or hesitates a bit when shifting from 2nd to 3rd. I attribute this to stupidly trying a couple years ago to start an unstartable engine by pulling the car at 25 miles an hour, and dropping the trans into 3-4 position on the quadrant. Its a long and woefull tale, but the end result of that fiasco was I noticed smoke wafting up from the filler cap, (I had the mats and the covers off at the time) so could see what was going on, and gave that stupid idea up pronto when I noticed that smoke !!



    However, the trans still works ok, and I drive the car all over the place without worrying it won't get me home, but that 2nd-third slippy shift is a bit emberassing when I'm showing off the car's extraordinary acceleration to a potential Hudson admirer, or starry eyed youngster.



    Since I don't have tool such and such, and gismo number j-6854, or whatever it is that the manual says "real" Hudson mechanics would use to fix this in the old days, my plan is as follows:



    I'll pull up the floor mats, take the cover off over the adjusting screws, loosen the locknut for the FRONT band, (which I think is the closest one to the engine), while making sure the adjusting screw does not move while loosening the adjusting nut --- then tighten down the adjusting screw (say half a turn), lock it down in the new position with the locknut, and go for a little test drive. If still not enough improvement, then do another half-turn, and go again.



    My question is this, am I on the right track here, or am I just about to make my life a lot more miserable ? Am I adjusting the right thing, for the right band? I realize I should be starting at the carbs, setting the rpm's with a tach, adjusting the linkages, etc. etc. but with "old stuff", loose tolerances, (especially in the linkages), the flapper valve in the manifold for choke heat gone, among other variables, I think I'd better just settle for good enough, instead of my usual quest for perfection.



    Can anyone help me at least get started off in the right direction here ? Some advice before grabbing the wrenches would be much appreciated.



    Thanks,



    Ryan (silverone)
    The manual states you have an oil pressure problem. Fist thing is to set the TV rod. To do this correctly, if twin H set up, you have to balance both carbs with the carbs rods disconnected, and a #2 phillip screw driver in the U notch on the linkage connected to the left rear of the block. My July-Aug 2009 write up in the WTN has the full story on this and if single carb. Then you set the TV rod as per write up. If this does not correct your problem you then must have the unit repaired or bands adjusted by someone that has the correct tools. No guess work here. Walt.
  • SuperDave
    SuperDave Senior Contributor
    Silverone,

    Being a "terminal" do-it-yourselfer..I understand.. here is a link to what appears to be a pretty good description of "how to". It looked like plain laanguage to me compared to the Chiltons description.. I haven't used it yet...Mine is still on the bench. let me know it it helped you.

    http://www.autotran.us/HMBAdj1.html

    Good luck
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    SuperDave wrote:
    Silverone,

    Being a "terminal" do-it-yourselfer..I understand.. here is a link to what appears to be a pretty good description of "how to". It looked like plain laanguage to me compared to the Chiltons description.. I haven't used it yet...Mine is still on the bench. let me know it it helped you.

    http://www.autotran.us/HMBAdj1.html

    Good luck



    By golly SuperDave, the article you refer to pretty much sums up my thoughts on how to get around the "not having the right tools" issue, and I basically came to the same conclusion as to maybe using a wrench and a crowfoot, or making a tool.



    I was amused to read the line about the mechanic not able to "count" the turns, and the tool doing this for him :-)



    I'll investigate furthur and see if I can figure out how to do this myself. It dosen't look to much like rocket science now that its so well explained, and failing that, I've had an offer of help from a knowledgeable friend who does have the proper tools, but lives 500 miles away, so it may be awhile before we can get at this if I go that way. He says if all else fails, he'll bring his tools to the Nationals, and we'll fix it there. That awta draw a few onlookers -- especially if we can get 'er tight enough to do a burnout !!



    Naaah -- just kidding. :-)



    I'll post the results as the unfold, good or bad.



    Thanks for the help !!



    Ryan.
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    Ryan, don't feel so bad about what you called a stupid thing in terms of starting your '53 by push starting it. When I was new to Hudsons and for that matter, automotive mechanics, many years ago, I mixed up the voltage regulator with the starting solenoid. Here's how THAT happened:



    At the time, I had a basic '53 Wasp and I had just purchased my '50 Pacemaker. Now, since the clutch on the Pacemaker chattered a little, I figured I'd go ahead and change the clutch fluid. On the '53 Wasp, the starter solenoid is located on the inside left fender for easy access to activate the button switch to "bump" over the flywheel to position the clutch filler hole. On the '50 Pacemaker that solenoid is located on the starter itself, but the Pacemaker voltage regulator is pretty much located where the starter solenoid is located on the Wasp.



    Sooo.......I figured, "Oh, this is a different kind of starter solenoid!" "Hmmm, no button switch". Consequently, I hooked up a remote switch to the regulator contacts figuring eventually I'd find the right combination to "bump" the flywheel over. When the regulator started to smoke, I decided, something must be wrong. Then I saw the solenoid on the starter and realized the error of my ways.



    You know, to this day, I still have that same voltage regulator on my Pacemaker and it surprisingly works just fine. Testimony to how well they were constructed to even withstand the ignorant judgement on my part! Nevertheless, I keep a NOS Autolite regulator in my Pacemaker's trunk just in case the present one finally gives in to my past mistake from over 26 years ago.



    Hope your tranny problem is an easy fix,



    Dan
This discussion has been closed.

Categories

In this Discussion