rear shackle interchange~stepdown
Comments
-
Best keep the shackles all Hudson, they're not a simple bracket like on some other makes.
I think the easiest way to lower the back end is with lowering blocks between your springs and rear axle. I know others on the forum have done this successfully, so hopefully they'll chime in.0 -
I put lowering blocks on the 49 Super Six I used to have and took them off about a week later. The car rode really smooth and soft before the blocks were put in. The car rode so hard after the blocks were in I didn't like it. It looked great but I couldn't sacrifice the great original ride. Just my opinion. Richie.0
-
Shackles to the terraplanes were about 1 inch shorter I believe in length. Might work,I dont know. Takes the same bushings0
-
I think the best way is to go to a good spring shop and have them modify the original leaves to get the amount of drop you want. It's the best way to get the lowered stance while retaining a decent ride quality.0
-
I put lowering blocks on my 49 and didn't notice any ride or handling
degradation. I want to say they were 1 1/2" but they might have been 2".
Anyway,with the wifes luggage in the trunk it easily doubles whatever the
blocks are and still have never bottomed it out. Only drawback at all for me
is having to remove the lower shock to get the axle to drop down enough
to get the 235/75 tires on 15X6 wheels out of the fenderwell, and really
its just not that big a deal.Granted I have not attempted this on the side
of the road but with the wifes luggage mentioned earlier,I don't have room
for a spare anyway.;)0 -
dougson wrote:I am considering dropping the rear of my '54 a bit and the easiest way to go would be to shorten the rear shackle. Has anyone experimented with or found other hudson rear shackles that are a bit shorter than the stock stepdown?0
-
walt's garage-53 wrote:These people don't realize that they are throwing the drive line out of line. Take it on a long trip and there goes the universal joints. Every notice, the kids with raised Chevy's, sitting on the side of the road with the drive shaft on the ground. Leave that part factory setting. Walt.
See,there you go Walt, calling me out for my jacked-up Chevy. I am sure I
must have worked for you in my youth because this lecture sounds so familiar.
At least you could have given me and my driveshaft a ride back to town. Do
you realize how embarrassing it was having to hike all the way with said
driveshaft slung over my shoulder?
Here's proof that with enough tools and junk in the back it wasn't really
all that bad.
Walt, I hope you realize that I'm just having some fun with you and very
much value your knowledge and experience. Its what makes this board so
great and will hopefully guide me to bring my recently acquired 30 Essex
Coupe back to an acceptable FACTORY condition. Thanks, Jeff Lynn0 -
When I built my '56 Corvette, I removed about 1/2" from each shackle (the Corvette used a two piece style on either side of the spring eye) and it actually decreased the angle of the drive shaft, which ordinarilly is at a pretty steep angle. I would think that with the two piece drive shaft, dropping the rear a bit would decrease the angle at the center bearing a bit, especially considering that these cars tended to nose down with all the iron in the front end. I'll look into the terreplane shackle.0
-
I lowered my 49 by making 1" lowering blocks out of a piece of 1"bar stock. Very simple AND you can use the stock U bolts. All you have to do, is loosen the nuts and slide the bar in. The ride is no different and nothing is compromised. It leveled the car no more than having a couple of adults in the back seat. It was perfectly level until I replaced the front springs, now it is slightly lower, but not a tail dragger either..0
-
I put lowering blocks in a few years ago. I think they are 2". The ride quality did go down, especially when loaded with people and luggage. I plan to go to a 1" block, it's just low on the priority list. Pretty easy to do, the kit I bought included blocks and longer U bolts for around $20.0
-
dougson wrote:I am considering dropping the rear of my '54 a bit and the easiest way to go would be to shorten the rear shackle. Has anyone experimented with or found other hudson rear shackles that are a bit shorter than the stock stepdown?
I've just stuck my head under the rear of my 53 Hornet, no one in the car, not too much junk in the boot (trunk), and there is 1 1/4" to 1 1/2" clearance from the top of the spring eye to the underside of the chassis rail.
That clearance will decrease when the car is loaded and/or as it goes over bumps.
Sooo, 1" shorter shackles will lower the car by 1/2" and let your spring ends thump on the underside of the chassis.0 -
From a shade tree mechanics point of view...The spring becomes longer as it compresses. That is one of the functions of the shackle..Shortening the spring shackle would increase the spring rate..In fact would likely cause a big increase towards the end of it's limited travel. Most likely would result in a harsh ride and perhaps some damaged springs. I betcha Ole Racer can tell us all about it. I always raced coil spring cars, so I can't speak first hand.0
-
dougson wrote:I am considering dropping the rear of my '54 a bit and the easiest way to go would be to shorten the rear shackle. Has anyone experimented with or found other hudson rear shackles that are a bit shorter than the stock stepdown?0
-
Thanks for input all. Maybe I will go with a thin block (1/2"), maybe not.0
This discussion has been closed.
Categories
- 37K All Categories
- 106 Hudson 1916 - 1929
- 19 Upcoming Events
- 91 Essex Super 6
- 28.6K HUDSON
- 559 "How To" - Skills, mechanical and other wise
- 993 Street Rods
- 150 American Motors
- 173 The Flathead Forum
- 49 Manuals, etc,.
- 78 Hudson 8
- 44 FORUM - Instructions and Tips on using the forum
- 2.8K CLASSIFIEDS
- 599 Vehicles
- 2.1K Parts & Pieces
- 77 Literature & Memorabilia
- Hudson 1916 - 1929 Yahoo Groups Archived Photos