engine rebuild cost
Comments
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When I shopped around last most all will tell you they can't be specific until they open up the guts of the engine and look at it however I got most ball park figures around $5-6 K and a rebuild kit from Dale Cooper will set you back $1200. So the rest is like labor and machine shop work. ... also factor in if you're doing the tranny or not too and your transport costs.0
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rule of thumb 5000 $0
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I did my 262 about 4 years ago, and spent approximately;
Core engine (my other one was cracked) = $300
Complete rebuild kit from Dale Cooper (incl. lifters) = $1500
Machine shop work (bore, deck, valve seats, wrist pins etc.) = $1000
I probably spent another couple of hundred in tools, supplies and ancillary items, so with me doing all of the work that I could, I spent about $3000 total.0 -
I did my 262 for under $500. Your rod and main bearings are very rugged. and probably OK, you may need a valve or two, and guides are probably OK. You'll need rings. I haven't needed to bore a Hudson yet out of at least 8 engines.
So it was a gasket set, a valve, waterpump rebuild and a fuel pump diaphragm and rings.
Take it apart and check everything first to see what you have and what you need.0 -
Not exactly apples to apples because of the babbited bearings but Terry Harkin in Watertown, SD did a complete rebuild of my 1946 8-cylinder last fall for $3875.
Everything new except crank, camshaft and rods. Parts/gaskets came from Dale Cooper. I substituted a copper headgasket. Included are hardened valve seats, head shave, both camshaft and crankshaft grind and new ring gear.
Turnaround was about 6 weeks. Because I am incapable of doing any of the work by a problem back everything must be hired. The R and R of the engine including crating was $1,800 and the shipping to Watertown, SD from Bozeman and return was $650. So, if you are as mechanically challenged as I am, it cost $6,375 to Remove, Rebuild and Replace.
Jim Kilday
Terry Harkin is a real pleasure to work with and I would recommend his work highly. If you have an engine with babbited bearings, Terry is your man in the Midwest.
jmk0 -
Jim Kilday wrote:Not exactly apples to apples because of the babbited bearings but Terry Harkin in Watertown, SD did a complete rebuild of my 1946 8-cylinder last fall for $3875.
Everything new except crank, camshaft and rods. Parts/gaskets from Dale Cooper. Included hardened valve seats, head shave, crankshaft grind and new ring gear.
Turnaround was about 6 weeks.
So what is the process for dealing with the babbited bearings? Has anyone come up with modern replacement bearing process?
Craig0 -
Uncle Josh...what amount of taper in the cylinders is acceptable for a re-ring?0
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I have done three engines in the last three years. I mean COMPLETE Most with new cam and lifters as well as the pistons,bearings and such. All ended up well over 2K some as much as 3.2K. 262 or 308 no difference. I do all my own breakdown, measurements and re-assemble.. Having someone else do the labor would add considerably.. I have a 308 that has 3.2K in it and would part with it for the same.0
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A long time ago when these cars were still on the road, you would take it to a mechanic who would check it out and then tell you your options
were and the cost.
Now things have changed along with the prices.
A lot depends on how worn your original engine is.
Some of the ones I have run across are still in pretty good shape , just have been sitting for awhile.
You can spend any amount of money on an engine like a restoration shop would, or you can play it like someone back in the 50's or 60's and make a driver out of it and work it into a better package later.
Do you plan to drive coast to coast or just take the car out occasionaly around town and do not want to be embarrased by the blue haze?
As stated previously by Uncle Josh, if your bottom end is good , a rering will get you by for quite a while (if it's smoking) and a valve job is still pretty cheap. It can be done in the car.
These engines are the insert bearing type and you should have no problem there as to rebearing the rods and crank. You used to check the wear on the crank and then use a .003 or .005 bearing to compensate for the crank wear.
Some times the smoking and also the leaks clear up after awhile ,the rings free up from the sitting around. The seals get re soaked and swell up and you are looking good.
Make sure you pull the pan and the valve covers and clean all the crud out, make sure the oil pickup screen is clear.
If the engine runs and seems solid, pull the head and run a wire coat hanger or other suitable wire through all the head water holes/passages and also the ones in the block. Then run some Oxalic acid or a commercial acid based radiator/block cleaner in the cooling system to clean out he rust/etc.
People used to not run antifreeze and the block and head will clog up with rust.
I have had old engines run hot on the temp guage for the simple reason that water is not circulating through the head where the temp sender is located.
These are low compression engines, if you are careful and do not tear up the head gasket when taking off the head, use a copper based sealant like Indian Head and reinstall.
Run the thing for awhile and change the oil a couple of times to clear all the loose debris out.
If you still cant get a good compression reading or it's still smoking you can use a ridge reamer and cylinder hone to prep the cylinders for a ring job. Then do it yourself!
I guess the point I'm trying to make is to act like we did back in the late 60"s. Try to get by as cheap and reliable as you can for how much driving you do.
Get the thing running, see how well it does , decide just how much you like the car, then decide how much you can afford and want to spend.
These are strange engines, they will surprise you how well they have held up and how little you can get by on getting one running and driving.
Do not let a figure of how much a complete rebuild will cost you prevent you from getting a Hudson running and back on the road.
Buy a Motors Manual for the year and car and follow the instructions if you wish to do it yourself.
I am not disputing any prices for a good, complete rebuild job. Things cost
large these days. I am just throwing some ideas out to help you find out what you have got.
If you want to discuss any of these ideas,send me a pm.0 -
Some of these things cost because there's not so many people that do them anymore.... or some hobbyists feel they're not up to the task but one has to remember a lot of the mechanics who maintained the cars new did so without a college education. Still you have to factor in some things like what is your own time worth and what would it cost to tool up to do a rebuild yourself for the frequency with which you will do so.
It's really too bad Dave Kostansec wasn't able to get his crate Hornet engine rebuild business off the ground that would've helped a lot of people.0 -
Kdancy wrote:Just wondering what the current cost of a total 262 rebuild would be.
Ball park?0 -
I agree with getting the machining done right which would run somewhere around $1000-$1500, plus the engine rebuild kit which costs roughly $1500....the removal, dissassembly and reassemble/reinstall is all just labor...a lot of us can do that ourselves so $3000 - $4000 is certainly within reach. That is the correct way to have a long lasting strong engine but sometimes if an engine is within tolerances and a budget is tight a rering will last quite a while as well.
Its too bad that the parts are so expensive for Hudson engines....I rebuilt a chevy v-8 ( 283 ) for another project for $500 and it is done right. The complete kit for it was $175, machining cost me $150, and the heads were rebuilt for $125....I did the disassemble and reassemble.
And we wonder why people go to small block chevys.0 -
Walt--
Just curious--what is your hourly rate for an engine rebuild?
Thanks,
jim kilday0 -
Jim Kilday wrote:Walt--
Just curious--what is your hourly rate for an engine rebuild?
Thanks,
jim kilday0 -
walt's garage-53 wrote:I charge $50.00 per for any job I do and have no complaints because the job is done right. Walt.
Walt-
$50.00 these days is more than reasonable. Most shops are in the $75-$80 range. I'm still charging $50.00 per shop time with our business.0 -
walt's garage-53 wrote:I charge $50.00 per for any job I do and have no complaints because the job is done right. Walt.
Walt--
Today, $50/hour is very reasonable for your knowledge and experience and you don't charge ANYTHING for all the phone calls.
Jim Kilday0 -
RL Chilton wrote:Walt-
$50.00 these days is more than reasonable. Most shops are in the $75-$80 range. I'm still charging $50.00 per shop time with our business.0 -
Walt, you say "Every car I install one of my oil filter kits on" do you have a specific oil filter you are talking about?0
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mjsandbe wrote:Walt, you say "Every car I install one of my oil filter kits on" do you have a specific oil filter you are talking about?
Michael-
Walt has the kit, they are a snap to install (30 minute job if you're slow). If you remember looking at Doc, she has one of his kits mounted . . . goes on the driver side. Highly recommended.0 -
walt's garage-53 wrote:Russell, our machine shops here are $125.00 per, I get a discount, $105.00 per. This is a cost I pass on to the customer as they let me get all the parts so I make a few dollars there. This shop also dyno's engines and the kids bring their Chevys in to have done and he ask them what RPM figures are they looking for. 9 out of 10 the engine blow up as they did not do a complete job, just a fast make over. They have to sign a release before the engine gets on the dyno. This shop did all my machine work when I rebuilt my engine 13 years ago and 130,00 mile to date and still going strong. They didn't have the dyno then and they want me to bring the car in to run on the dyno to see how strong it still is. You saw my car and it still does not drop any oil. Every car I install one of my oil filter kits on, helps the oil to run 10 degrees cooler because it's built on a heat sink design and a few miles more before they have to add a quart of oil. Convertible keeping you busy?? Walt.
You bet, I'm busy! Hopefully will be able to post some current pics, soon.0 -
RL Chilton wrote:Michael-
Walt has the kit, they are a snap to install (30 minute job if you're slow). If you remember looking at Doc, she has one of his kits mounted . . . goes on the driver side. Highly recommended.
What other cool stuff is Walt hiding0
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