Priming 308 with oil

GrimGreaser
Senior Contributor
I just got a '52 Hornet with an engine that hasn't been run in who knows how long. Before I even attempt to spin it, I would like to get fresh oil through the whole thing. I plan on using a pressure primer, but need to know a good place to hook it up to ensure fresh oil makes it through the entire engine. You'll have to forgive me, I've grown up on Chevy engines so these big L-head sixes are new to me.
Thanks!
Thanks!
0
Comments
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Remove the oil pressure sender switch and pump your oil in there.0
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Hey GG,
To be safe, you should consider dropping the pan and clean sludge from around pick up, it could be submerged. You could poke a coat hanger wire into the drain and see what ya find. My thoughts anyway.
Kim0 -
Welcome GG. Careful with Hudsons as they are habit forming. Sure wouldn't
hurt to drop the pan on any engine with unknown history,maybe moreso on
these unfiltered ones that have seen a lifetime of non-detergent oil. All good advise here and lots of knowledge for those of us weaning off bent 8
Chevies. The oil pressure sending unit Geoff speaks of is located on the
passenger side between the pushrod covers as seen here with the AN
fitting plumbed into it.0 -
Welcome to the world of Hudsons. By all means, drop the pan and clean out the pick-up screen. Mine was plugged and sucked up so there was not even a trace of course filtering. My car sat for many years too and had some other issues resulting in a total rebuild, even though the oil pressure was a constant 40 lbs. Good Luck.
Bruce0 -
TwinH,
Ok, I'll bite. What are all those hoses for? Obviously the one in the middle is for the oil pressure sender, but waht are the other ones tapped into the oil pump housing?
Rich0 -
ratlee2 wrote:TwinH,
Ok, I'll bite. What are all those hoses for? Obviously the one in the middle is for the oil pressure sender, but waht are the other ones tapped into the oil pump housing?
Rich
Rich,the PO modded that for a full flow oil filter set-up. The steel lines you see
pull the oil from the pump and through a remote mount spin-on filter and then
back from the filter through the braided hose and to the oil galley via the
oil pressure switch port. Obviously they have blocked the oil port between
the pump and galley but i've never had it apart to see how. Its never given
me any problems and I like the idea of a full flow filter that it is hidden enough
that only hardcore hudnuts can spot it with the hood up.0 -
Will the old 212 oil pumps put out enough pressure to use a full flow filter or should a bypass filter be used ? How would it be routed , gotta get oil to the timeng gears . What I would do is break into the line going to the front but would like this confirmed , especially the full flow part . BUD0
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Not recommended, and not practical. The 212 motors are "duo-flo" meaning half the oil goes to the front and half goes to the front of the motor. certainlynot recommended to fit any sort of obstruction between the sump and the intake of the pump, as this could impede flow. To get full-flow filtering you would have to fit two filters, one in each delivery pipe. Unlike a ful pressure system the oil circulates freely through the bearings, and there is very little possibility of grit entering the system due to the very fine gauze in the sump. Again - "If it aint broke, don't fix it". Hudson did advertise an accessory filter, which was on one side of the delivery only, but in my opinion it is not necessary, nor desirable. Some will say even half filtering is better than none, but I have seen Hudson Super Six engines that have done hundreds of thousands of miles with virtually no crank wear or scoring. Good oil, regularly changed is still the best insurance policy. I know one guy fitted a full flow filter to a 1928 Chrysler Four. Guess what let go and sprayed oil all over everything?
Geoff.0 -
Geoff C., N.Z. wrote:Not recommended, and not practical. The 212 motors are "duo-flo" meaning half the oil goes to the front and half goes to the front of the motor. certainlynot recommended to fit any sort of obstruction between the sump and the intake of the pump, as this could impede flow. To get full-flow filtering you would have to fit two filters, one in each delivery pipe. Unlike a ful pressure system the oil circulates freely through the bearings, and there is very little possibility of grit entering the system due to the very fine gauze in the sump. Again - "If it aint broke, don't fix it". Hudson did advertise an accessory filter, which was on one side of the delivery only, but in my opinion it is not necessary, nor desirable. Some will say even half filtering is better than none, but I have seen Hudson Super Six engines that have done hundreds of thousands of miles with virtually no crank wear or scoring. Good oil, regularly changed is still the best insurance policy. I know one guy fitted a full flow filter to a 1928 Chrysler Four. Guess what let go and sprayed oil all over everything?
Geoff.
NUFF SAID . got enough trouble now . Thanks , BUD0 -
Thanks for the tips! So, how would this Chevy boy go about dropping the pan? Anything else I need to get out of the way? Seems like I would need to remove the cross-member too. There's been a lot to take in, so I haven't gotten real detail oriented at this point.
My last old engine project was a 65 Chevy truck, and all it took was a carb cleaning, an oil change, and finding a loose coil wire. Fired on the fourth crank after who knows how long. Hopefully this goes as smooth, but I may have used all my luck up the first time.
Did I mention the engine is just sitting in there with no engine mounts? Ha! Glad it made the 9 hour haul.0
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