Need Help with Pertronix Install!!! 12V Neg Ground
My car is sitting in the garage as I type, halfway through the change from points to a pertronix electronic ignition. I have already installed the pertronix flame thrower coil.
I have a 1952 Hudson Hornet 308 12V negative ground. The 1st picture is the kit number of the pertronix module.
The 2nd picture is the distributor as it is now. The post with the screw on it on the right blocks the pertronix module from fitting into the distributor. How do I deal with this? There is a cylinder on the left with a wire coming out of this. I believe this is a condenser and can be removed. Is this correct?
The kit also mentions setting an air gap between the module and the magnet sleeve using a "provided" plastic feeler gauge. I don't see anything I think fits that description. Is my module stationary and not in need of air gaping?
Can I re-gap my spark plugs for better power and fuel efficiency with this setup? If so, how much?
The magnet sleeve seems to be wrapped in a protective blue plastic. Should I remove this?
I would like to go for a drive tomorrow, any help is appreciated! Thank you.
I have a 1952 Hudson Hornet 308 12V negative ground. The 1st picture is the kit number of the pertronix module.
The 2nd picture is the distributor as it is now. The post with the screw on it on the right blocks the pertronix module from fitting into the distributor. How do I deal with this? There is a cylinder on the left with a wire coming out of this. I believe this is a condenser and can be removed. Is this correct?
The kit also mentions setting an air gap between the module and the magnet sleeve using a "provided" plastic feeler gauge. I don't see anything I think fits that description. Is my module stationary and not in need of air gaping?
Can I re-gap my spark plugs for better power and fuel efficiency with this setup? If so, how much?
The magnet sleeve seems to be wrapped in a protective blue plastic. Should I remove this?
I would like to go for a drive tomorrow, any help is appreciated! Thank you.
0
Comments
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don't remove blue plastic! That's all I remember, sorry0
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ski4life65 wrote:don't remove blue plastic! That's all I remember, sorry
Something is better than nothing
If you have this in your car, any chance you could take a look or snap a picture?0 -
FYI
Ill try to help since ive installed a couple of Crane Units and Pertonix (should be) similar and heard easier, but arent the Instructions inside the box?
Just going by memory, For the Crane Unit I marked the location of the Rotor Point on the Block then removed the Distributor and put in a Vise with rubber around the shank.I figured roughly where the Module had to be located, Marked the spot, removed the side screws then lifted the advance plate out and cut off any obstructions. You can remove the condenser for the Crane(and probably Pertonix too since should not be needed). Ensure the manner you install the bracket screw lets the advance plate move.
I recall I needed to drill and/or modify the tiny bracket (supplied) then I re installed the plate with Pick-Up Module. The module has to go over a thin Reluctor (Plastic washer with 6 holes) that slid under the rotor. I slid the wires out thru the original side hole. The Pick-up Module should be the only thing inside the Dist (on Crane). The Crane Units were Universal to adapt to any 4 or 6 cyl.
In place of the missing feelers use a thin pc of cardboard. You need only an air gap and ensure nothing rubs above & below when rotate by hand.. To re install the Dist,Point the Rotor toward mark on block the push in Dist. Rotor may l rotate slighty when inserting gear and pump slot. Be patient, it fits and works. Good Luck.0 -
The directions say to pretty much put it in and it will fit. I am sure it would on a Chrysler
I am trying to do this without pulling the distributor. It seems possible, but who knows?
Hopefully someone with recent first hand experience with this thing will chime in.0 -
FYI
It probably can be done in car.... Maybe open the box and take a picture of the components and maybe I could further advise, if nobody else chimes in....0 -
Michael,
I've been running a Petronix system with the same part number (1362, no mention of Chrysler) for several years now. In addition to printed instuctions, it came with hand written "notes" on installation. work in the distributer. If you don't have these, send me an email address via personal messages and I'll scan and send. Will be this PM, though. Got to go to work. Walt0 -
The kit seems simple and only has a couple of pieces. I am fairly sure where the parts should go and how to wire them. The problem is that there is something in the way in the distributor. In the picture above you can see it on the right, it is a metal tab with a screw in it. It is where the ground and the condenser were wired.
Here is my educated guess of what I need to do: I need to remove the condenser. Snap off the metal piece in the way of the pertronix ignitor, and wire the black and red wires directly into the coil. My problem is that removing the piece of metal from the distributor is a rather permanent move for a guess.
I have zero experience with distributors, so any help is greatly appreciated.0 -
Just open my new 1362 Petronix unit. There was no .030 feeler guage for setting the air gap. Will post information on the installation when completed if it would help. But that wouldn't be until later this coming week. Tom0
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I have been searching and reading the forum and I am pretty sure I need to drill the rivits holding the metal piece blocking my unit. I would like someone to confirm this before I make a perminant change. Here are the threads I found relating to this. Thanks.
http://classiccar.com/index.php?option=com_jfusion&Itemid=62&jfile=index.php&option=com_jfusion&Itemid=62&jfile=showthread.php&t=13364&highlight=Pertronix+Install
http://classiccar.com/index.php?option=com_jfusion&Itemid=62&jfile=showthread.php&t=7695&highlight=Pertronix+Install0 -
mjsandbe wrote:I have been searching and reading the forum and I am pretty sure I need to drill the rivits holding the metal piece blocking my unit. I would like someone to confirm this before I make a perminant change. Here are the threads I found relating to this. Thanks.
http://classiccar.com/index.php?option=com_jfusion&Itemid=62&jfile=index.php&option=com_jfusion&Itemid=62&jfile=showthread.php&t=13364&highlight=Pertronix+Install
http://classiccar.com/index.php?option=com_jfusion&Itemid=62&jfile=showthread.php&t=7695&highlight=Pertronix+Install
Drill the two rivets out. Best to take Dist. out of car--remove plate--drill two rivets out--inspect weights (I find usually worn & I ream and put bushings in weights with .001-002 clearance)--install plate and insert mod.
Randy Maas0 -
I managed to drill the rivets in place and install the system. If I get a chance I will post a picture of it for future reference. After the install the Hudson spent a couple of hours on the interstate with no problem.0
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Good for you, I will take out my distributor, don't trust me bending over fender and doing it properly.
Does anyone have a schemetic of the inner workings of an IAT 4009 distributor? Would like to know the process to ream the weight bushings and what to use for shims, are they available at a parts store?0 -
eddynghdsn16 wrote:Good for you, I will take out my distributor, don't trust me bending over fender and doing it properly.
Does anyone have a schemetic of the inner workings of an IAT 4009 distributor? Would like to know the process to ream the weight bushings and what to use for shims, are they available at a parts store?
If I knew how to do what you are talking about, I would too
It was running pretty good on points and is even better with the pertronix, so I am crossing my fingers that the innards of the distributor are in OK shape.0 -
Glad you got it all figured out, Michael. Don't forget to get finished pictures posted, as I am sure they would be good reference material for those wishing to do the switch.0
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Just returned from Hudson show in OK... saw your post. To late to provide you with the information originally requested. But, the attached picture gives the answers.0
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To answer you, I have a spare distributor (Iat4009A) not the one for my car, but close enough. I followed what R. Maas said and took out the points and condensor, then there three screws out on the side of the distributor. This allowed me to take out the plate the points sit on. The plate you drilled out without taking the distributor out has a small piece under the distributor plate which the rivits go through, so the bracket the points and condensor are bolted to have a small plate under the larger plate probably for strength. So I wonder if you somehow got this smaller plate out (about a !/4 by 1/2 inches) without it dropping to the bottom of the distributor, or maybe your distributor doesn't have this plate. I just think it is easier to remove the distributor. I looked at the weights and have no idea what Mr. Maas is talking about reaming, where or what the problem is. The distributor appears to be tight and the weights work very well.0
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I stuck the info out on my Blog too - My Adventures as a Hudson Owner
Here is a picture of the Distributor with the Pertronix Ignitor installed.
Here is a pictures of the new coil and distributor all buttoned up. I might just be in my head, but I really do think it runs better and definitely idles smoother.0
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