Stepdown Fuel Tanks

[Deleted User]
[Deleted User]
edited November -1 in HUDSON
It seems that every time I start thinking of doing something fun to the car (radials, dual exhaust) something basic comes up that needs to be dealt with. I noticed that I was dripping gas yesterday and took it into my mechanic today so we could get a look from underneath. The drip was coming from where the fuel line attaches to the tank. The gasket looks like it may be the culprit, but he tightened up the fittings to see if that would stop the drip. The good new is that it only dripped with a very full tank. The bad news is that on closer inspection my tank seems to have 1-2 slow seeps. Not enough to drip, but enough to have a wet look. The spots are under a tank strap, so no easy way to look right at them



I believe my options are to reline my tank or replace it. I was wondering about the cost of relining, who does it, and how I know if my tank is in good enough condition to reline as oppose to replace? Are there any replacement tanks available?

Comments

  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    I have answers to some of my own questions. Radiator shops seem to do this type of work. My local shop charges $150 to flush and line the tank (inside and out). If he has to do any repair, the cost goes up.
  • brumac
    brumac Expert Adviser
    LAst year I bought a long time stored 54 Hornet and the tank was full of rust. I made a platform swing in the back yard and tied the tank to it. Covered the openingd with tape and poured in a mix of Muriatic acid and water. I spent several hours swinging the tank, right side up, upside down. and on all four sides. I drained and replaced the acid once. When it looked very clean in the flashlight beam, I drained it, flushed with water, and poured in about 1/2 gallon og DuPont metal conditioner and sloshed that around for an hour or so. I drained that and put the tank on my gas grill to dry out. I left it on the grill long enough to melt the solder holding the drain plug in- OOPS- and then poured in Hirsh's gas tank sealer. So far, I am happy with the results and only spent a few bucks and a day. So far, all is well.



    Bruce
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    Hi Michael,

    My car was on propane so tank had a lot of rusty scale etc. inside. I was putting the carbs back on so got a POR 15 tank liner kit from a local paint shop. Apparently NASA use these kits on their tanks even when new, so if its good enough for them I thought it would be good enough for my Ol Hudson. It's a 3 part kit, 1st part is cleaner, then a rust remover etcher and finally the sealer. It seems to have been very sucessful and simple enough to do yourself. You have to removethe tank of course. Hope this helps, regards Mike.
  • Browniepetersen
    Browniepetersen Senior Contributor
    Michael I have played with this most of my life and with most of the cars that I have built and put back on the road. I have tried most of the kit sealers out there and even taken the tank to my local radiator shop who gave me a life time repair program. bottom line, they have all failed me in time including the radiator shop that would not fix the tank that started leaking two years after they repaired it. Now I go the full route. I boil out the tank, cut a fairly large hole in the top, blast the inside, repair all leak areas, acid etch the blasted metal, replace the top, re seal all the seams with a torch and then use that fancy NASA stuff inside to seal everything off. While I have the tank apart I normally will replace any filters or the gas exit tubes and add a gas line return line to be later hooked up at the pump. Oh, I also add a drain so that if I ever need to take the tank off it is easy to drain the gas out..... I recommend that this is the only way to go that you can feel comfortable about.
  • Ol racer
    Ol racer Senior Contributor
    FYI

    Ive had very good luck with the ReNew Process done on a couple of Tanks at local Authorized radiator Shops.
  • RL Chilton
    RL Chilton Administrator, Member
    Michael-

    The ReNew system is being done by a fellow Hudnut, Joe Stinnett in FL. I have one of his tanks for the convertible, but have yet to try it out.

    Brownie's advice is sound, best to do it once and do it right, as always.

    Also, if interested in doing it yourself, there's a very comprehensive article in the current Rod & Custom about re-vitalizing old gas tanks.

    Good Luck and let us know how the project turns out.
  • onerare39
    onerare39 Expert Adviser, Member
    I had the tank in my 54 done by a Tank-Renu franchise in North Carolina ten years ago and it's holding up beautifully. They cut it open and sandblast it inside and out, then weld it shut and coat the entire tank inside and out with a thick coating of material similar to spray on bead liner. The tank will not look stock on the outside, but it will be sealed. If I remember correctly I think a HET member on the east coast has a franchise for Tank-Renu. I think it's Joe Stinnett in Florida but I could be wrong. You can UPS the tank to him, but make sure you wash the tank out with a good detergent first and tape up any holes. UPS will not take it if it smells like gasoline.



    John



    (As you can see Russell and I were typing at the same time)
  • RonS
    RonS Senior Contributor
    Never had a problem with my hudson tank( like calling a no-hitter in the 7th). But 5 years ago my 50 caddy developed a pin hole.I brought to a local radiator shop,where they sealed it as you guys stated before. about 6mos later another pinhole developed, as the car was about to be judged for an AACA Senior. I keep a tube of Gas & Oil sealer in my tool box. It worked indefinitely until the tank was replaced with a now produced new tank. Reason for the leak was that when a large stone or whatever hits the bottom of he tank it pushes a dimple up into the inside. When the inside of the tank is coated, the liquid material rolls away from the small "bump" and settles in the lower valleys possibly leaving higher areas uncoated, and unprotected. so enough material needs to be added to fill over the highest area. Most shops are not that aware since they can't see inside without cutting open the tank. Too much material can also cause the float to give an optimistic read on the fuel gauge, to my distress on a outing.
  • Snailslayer
    Snailslayer Expert Adviser
    Ive used the POR15 Gas tank kit last year on my vw tank. I got pretty good results, but cant give you a longevity report. if you look on POR15's website, they have the instructions on the prep to give you a very good idea of whats involved. I found it the most difficult to keep shaking the tank to clean it. What a workout. The guy who suggested the swing is a great idea, also i knew a guy that threw in the back of his truck for a week and drove around.

    Getting it clean, then being positive it is completely dry is important. You can order POR15 on the website, but i find vendors at bigger swap meets selling it too, often cheaper and no freight.

    I would have paid 150 bucks to have it done if done correctly. no chemicals to dispose of, no sore back and shoulders, no burning a weekend and stealing my wifes hair dryer to dry it out. Side note, i saw Bill and Charlies antique auto had a NOS gas tank for sale for like $200 last weekend... though you still may have to clean and seal it i guess.

    Maybe just buy an AL fuel cell and bolt that up... but what fun would that be? :) Good Luck
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