Need help unsticking a siezed / stuck Hornet Engine

[Deleted User]
edited November -1 in HUDSON
I'm looking at purchasing a 52 Hornet Coupe with a stuck engine. From what I know, the car has sat indoors for about 9 years and apparently had a blown head gasket when parked. Water went into the cylinders and the piston rings have rusted to the cylinder bore. Don't know if there is more damage to it. Besides tranny fluid or diesel fuel, what products have worked to unsieze an engine?

Comments

  • dougson
    dougson Senior Contributor
    nhp1127 wrote:
    I'm looking at purchasing a 52 Hornet Coupe with a stuck engine. From what I know, the car has sat indoors for about 9 years and apparently had a blown head gasket when parked. Water went into the cylinders and the piston rings have rusted to the cylinder bore. Don't know if there is more damage to it. Besides tranny fluid or diesel fuel, what products have worked to unsieze an engine?



    Assuming you've seen the cylinder bores and know they are rusty, it will require a professional shop to unstick it. My block was stuck and there was no water damage. No matter what I tried I could not release the pistons. You can assume the valves and valve guides are also stuck. I was able to get these out myself but it took weeks of soaking, then heat, then pounding. The valves and guides either came out together or separately, usually broken or shattered however.
  • Ol racer
    Ol racer Senior Contributor
    FYI

    Few things to try is First Kroil from Kano Lab I heard is the best, Perform Pentrant, Marvel Oil, and patience.

    It took time to sieze so it may take wks of soaking to free.. Its hard to get oils inTo the guides but try.... Additionally, Vibration after soaking helps free up motor... Ie, use 3/4 Impact on the damper bolt. Probably will get some additional suggestions too....

    Good Luck
  • oldhudsons
    oldhudsons Senior Contributor
    my forumula for "jungle juice" is a 50-50 combination of WD40 & Marvel Mystery Oil.

    To get the pistons out I'd recommend dropping the pan & dropping the end caps off the pistons so that IF you're able to free up the pistons/rings with "jungle juice", you can pound them out.

    Getting the valves out another story, so to speak, but getting the pistons out easily, altho may be time consuming for the "jungle juice" to soak by the rings, may, hopefully, prevent scoring the cylinders.

    ROTSA RUCK!
  • oldhudsons
    oldhudsons Senior Contributor
    to pound out the pistons I would use a block of wood approx. the dia. of the cylinder so you can get as much wood onto the surface of the piston as possible. I would NOT use metal.

    I'd let it soak in "jungle juice" for a week or so before starting to get them to break loose - those are big pistons with a lot of surface area! You could also use a thin piece of wood to gently tap on the bottom of the rods (caps removed as above) to get a little back & forth motion.
  • MikeWA
    MikeWA Senior Contributor
    Lots of discussion on this on the tractor board I frequent. Some lab did a test, and best results for penetrating was 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone (Mix it up as needed, because it takes a pretty good container to keep acetone from evaporating). I think Kroil was second, can't remember the rest. Many on that board swear by ATF, mixed with various things.
  • Uncle Josh
    Uncle Josh Senior Contributor
    Use penetrant as in above and isolate the pistons as above. If you can get some warm/hot water into the water jacket and get it near operating temp like 190 to 200 deg things might just move enough to help.
  • wano1949
    wano1949 Senior Contributor
    Pull the head, clean out all the debris from the cylinders. Pull the pan and loosen all the rod caps slightly, just enough to allow a small amout of movement of the piston should you get lucky.



    Sand or steel wool all the rust from the cylinder bores that you can reach, clean tops of pistons and use air gun to blow all the crud out you can from around the pistons and bore.



    I have had sucess with white vinegar poured into bore and left for a few days to clean out the top layer of rust and oxidation. wash out with water and blow dry with air gun.



    Do not leave solution in for an extended period of time as it will eventually eat up piston.



    Use your choice of penetrant/lubrication and go on vacation for a few days/weeks.



    Obtain a 1/2 in. circular slug of steel approx 1/8 smaller than bore, place on top of piston and use an air hammer or panel cutter with a blunt end to hammer the slug over its entire area, especially around the outside edges.



    If the bores are in good shape you can use plastic or leather as a filler between the circular slug and the cylinder bore to prevent any unintended damage to the cylinder wall.



    The light/quick impacts from the hammer seem to make the penetrant go in quicker and loosen up the piston and rings. The circular metal slug spreads the impacts over the top of the piston and dosent break the edges of the piston down like other methods I have tried.



    Be patient and allow time for the penetrant to seep deeper between the pistons and cyl. walls. Add more penetrant as needed.



    Use 3/4 drive ratchet and cheater pipe + large friend on crank bolt to put pressure on pistons to get movement. Turn both clock wise and counter clock wise.



    Oil up valve stems and try to turn valves which are off seats, use air hammer directly on center of valve to assist penetrant getting into guide area.



    Dont use air hammer at too high settng or too hard on valve which might deform head of valve.



    You should see some movement on the parts involved after a few days.



    Start with the pistons which are at an angle with the crank throw, not the ones where the piston is at top dead center or at the bottom of the stroke.



    Some where in this process a bigger hammer might be appropriate.



    If the engine bores are badly pitted or streaked you are looking at new pistons and bore job no matter what you do.



    Relieve the fustration by applying air chisel to pistons and cut them into pieces and remove.



    WH
  • oldhudsons
    oldhudsons Senior Contributor
    I might say, after reading this last long dissertation, that if all that hasn't worked, one might resort to having a beer (down your cylinders, not the Hornets, LOL).
  • Ol racer
    Ol racer Senior Contributor
    FYI

    You received some excellent advice on soaking and patience to free up the motor.The last Hornet motor I dissembled few valves were stuck in the guides and no pistons stuck. (The motor before was just the opposite).I sprayed PB Blaster into the guides to soak then after a few days used a pipe wrench on valve to twist free then rotate upward and out. It seems vibration helps free from hammer blow or Impact Wrench
  • DavidC
    DavidC Senior Contributor
    My first time adding to the forum, but as I just went through this, and successfully removed all pistons, I'll share.



    I agree with trying any of the recipes for looseners mentioned previously, but you'll probably find one or two pistons won't give up with gentle handling. The cylinders are tapered, so pistons need to come out the top.



    After weeks of soaking and spraying, I dropped the pan, loosened all the rod caps to allow about 1/4 in movement, then tapped on two flat surfaces on underside of pistons (wrist pin housings) with hammer on a long hardwood dowel. For two stubborn pistons I used great force, and dowel would break, but I'd just get another. Once the piston moved, and a gap created at the rod cap, I removed the cap, put a short length of hose on the two threads to protect them, and with an asistant ready to catch piston, drove the piston up and out. If a lip was created by cylinder wear, the rings would hang up on this, but as I knew I was going for borings and new pistons, I did not worry about breaking rings or ring pins, or piston. I ended up breaking one ring and one ring pin. If you are trying to salvage these parts, you will need to hone-relieve the lip at the top of the cylinder before forcing piston out.



    Thanks for a great forum!



    Dr Dave
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