Exhaust 'damper' in the right position?

jjbubaboy
jjbubaboy Senior Contributor
edited November -1 in HUDSON
Hey,

I guess this is somekind of a damper in the exhaust mani of my 36T.

Is it in the right position? Not sure if I can change it anyway due to it being pretty solid or rusted in place.:( Doesnt want to turn or budge at all.

Any input is appreciated!

Thanks!

Jeff

Comments

  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    I got out a 36 manifold and If you look on top you may still be able to see a 'W' (winter) on the left side (as you are looking at the picture you posted) and an 'S'(summer) to the right. Yours is set in between.
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    Jeff,



    The theory behind the exhaust dampener or "season selector" is that it routed the exhaust of cylinders 4-5-6 through the intake manifold when the arrow was pointed toward the "W" on the top of the manifold. This was done to heat the air/fuel mixture during the cold weather months of driving.



    You can remove the "season selector" but it takes a good deal of patience. It took me several months of daily application of Kroil to free it from the grip of rust.



    What some Hudsonites do is remove the dampener by any means deemed necessary and fabricate a plate to cover the opening in the exhaust manifold. This will allow the exhaust from cylinders 4-5-6 to flow freely towards the the exhaust pipe.



    To take it another step forward, you can also put a block-off plate between the exhaust manifold and intake manifold to block all exhaust from entering the intake manifold. Depending on where you live, this might require a longer warm-up period upon starting the car. But since most of us don't drive our cars when the temp's drop below freezing, it becomes a non-issue.



    If you have had problems with vapor lock, you might want to consider these options.



    Kevin C.
  • jjbubaboy
    jjbubaboy Senior Contributor
    Thanks Scott and Kevin!

    Yes, here in the Pacific Northwest I dont do any winter time driving, but do it all during the summer. I have had some vapor lock issues and a couple pretty bad ones last year. I thought this might be contributing to that.

    I have been soaking it with PB Blaster but it definately doesnt want to move. Will try Kroil and or the tranny fluid/acetone mix that was discussed on the forum a while back as well.

    I may just try to get it out and block it off altogether.

    Thanks again,

    Jeff
  • jjbubaboy
    jjbubaboy Senior Contributor
    HA! I WIN!

    Ok, so now I guess what would be best> leave it out or put it back in the summer position as dont need the winter function? OR make a block off plate and cover it up? Would I need to make a gasket or was their one made for it originally?

    I couldnt tell if their was a gasket when I took it off, too much rusty!

    Thanks,

    Jeff

    P.S. Thats not a crack in the lower part of manifold just showed up looking that way in the pic!
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    jjbubaboy wrote:
    HA! I WIN!

    Ok, so now I guess what would be best> leave it out or put it back in the summer position as dont need the winter function? OR make a block off plate and cover it up? Would I need to make a gasket or was their one made for it originally?

    I couldnt tell if their was a gasket when I took it off, too much rusty!

    Thanks,

    Jeff

    P.S. Thats not a crack in the lower part of manifold just showed up looking that way in the pic!



    Congratulations on your victory, Jeff!



    Since you removed it in one piece, you might want to put the dampener back in the summer position and see if it helps with the vapor lock problem. If the issue persists, then try the block-off plate.



    I'm not sure about the gasket but would think that Hudson put something between those two parts to prevent exhaust leaks. If there was a gasket, perhaps Dale Cooper carries that item.



    Let us know how it turns out.



    Kevin C.
  • TOM-WA-
    TOM-WA- Senior Contributor
    JEFF:



    I also live here in the northwest (MONROE, WA.) and my advice would be to eliminate it completely or at a minimum place it in the Summer Position and leave it there.



    My 54 Wasp has a similar device and it drove me crazy FOR better than 6 months.

    It was stuck wide open in the position that diverted the hot exhaust up to the carb.



    After a few miles of driving it would heat the fuel up so hot that it would vaporize and starve the car for gas. I would have to wait till the car cooled down before it would restart and never got much more than a mile or so between stops.





    Hope this provides some insight.







    TOM BARRETT



    P.S. HAVE WE MET? I AM ACTIVE IN THE LOCAL CHAPTER OF THE CLUB
  • jjbubaboy
    jjbubaboy Senior Contributor
    Hey Tom!

    Unfortunately I havent met too many from the club~YET.

    I live out here in Port Orchard so not real close but have talked with a few members on the forum and email.

    I work a very 'unregular schedule' also in the restaurant biz so that makes it a challenge as well.

    Hoping to have this work all done and meet many in Spokane!



    Your description is exactly what problems I was having although not as bad. I am just thinking that leaving it out will make the flow that much better and help keep heat down.



    Jeff
  • jjbubaboy
    jjbubaboy Senior Contributor
    Hey,

    opted to go with fabricating a block off plate and covering the hole. Put a gasket in between to hopefully seal it as well.

    Now will see if it helps!



    Jeff
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    jjbubaboy wrote:
    Hey,

    opted to go with fabricating a block off plate and covering the hole. Put a gasket in between to hopefully seal it as well.

    Now will see if it helps!



    Jeff



    Nice looking block off plate... I cracked the head on my 41 after running it with the damper in the winter position without realizing it.



    I acquired a spare motor with a later version of the damper with a spring type butterfly. I removed the butterfly and welded up the hole in the center of the plate that its shaft "rotated" in. Plate looks "stock" and no one really is the wiser (or cares).



    Since you salvaged the original you could off off the damper and use it as you plate for a stock look... although your custom plate has a "stock" appearance.



    At any rate the damper needs to go in my opinion...



    Craig
  • jjbubaboy
    jjbubaboy Senior Contributor
    Hey Craig,

    Thanks.

    Yea I felt the damper needed to go as well. Whatever can be done to limit any restrictions for exhaust flow is usually a good thing. Especially in the design of this exhaust manifold!

    Jeff
This discussion has been closed.

Categories

In this Discussion