Collaposed Radiator Hose
Yesterday I noticed that the gasket around the goose-neck feeding my radiator was leaking, so I removed it, cleaned it up, and replaced it. Once that was done, I filled it up the brim with premixed 50/50 coolant. It was irritating because it was only a few months ago that I pulled the piece off to install a modern thermostat and close the bypass.
Today the family and I drove the Hudson into a nearby cruise-in, and when I opened the hood for someone to look at the 308, I noticed my upper radiator hose was collapsed :eek:
Could this be potentially 'normal' since my radiator found it level by filling up my overflow/reservoir and the overflow hose was submerged in coolant?
or
Is this a sign of really bad crap, like my recent experience with engine knock?
Today the family and I drove the Hudson into a nearby cruise-in, and when I opened the hood for someone to look at the 308, I noticed my upper radiator hose was collapsed :eek:
Could this be potentially 'normal' since my radiator found it level by filling up my overflow/reservoir and the overflow hose was submerged in coolant?

or
Is this a sign of really bad crap, like my recent experience with engine knock?

0
Comments
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Your problem is most likely an air lock in your cooling system... When the engine and radiator is cool, remove the radiator cap and run the car ... as the engine warms to operating temperature check for air bubbles in the radiator... if there is air captured in the cooling system it should work out after several minutes of engine operation at proper operating temp.
If this does not clear the problem check your cap... make sure it holds the right pressure and you do not have a pinched or damaged gasket.0 -
Heart_Of_Texas wrote:Your problem is most likely an air lock in your cooling system... When the engine and radiator is cool, remove the radiator cap and run the car ... as the engine warms to operating temperature check for air bubbles in the radiator... if there is air captured in the cooling system it should work out after several minutes of engine operation at proper operating temp.
If this does not clear the problem check your cap... make sure it holds the right pressure and you do not have a pinched or damaged gasket.
Just to make sure I understand, run it several minutes with the cap off to try and work out any air in the cooling system? It is quite possible I have air in there since I drained it to replace the gasket on the goose-neck.0 -
You mentioned an overflow tank in the cooling system. You may also want to check the radiator cap to ensure it is allowing coolant to not only flow to the overflow tank when hot but also return to the radiator as the system cools down. Failure to allow return flow will not only collapse hoses but may leave you short of coolant in the radiator.0
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Birdman wrote:You mentioned an overflow tank in the cooling system. You may also want to check the radiator cap to ensure it is allowing coolant to not only flow to the overflow tank when hot but also return to the radiator as the system cools down. Failure to allow return flow will not only collapse hoses but may leave you short of coolant in the radiator.
You can see the overflow hose and container in the first picture. I know the overflow hose is not blocked, and it definitely lets coolant out, but how do I know if it lets it flow back in?
I have a 7lb cap. Here are a few more pictures to for more info.0 -
mjsandbe wrote:You can see the overflow hose and container in the first picture. I know the overflow hose is not blocked, and it definitely lets coolant out, but how do I know if it lets it flow back in?
I have a 7lb cap. Here are a few more pictures to for more info.
When the engine warms up, the coolant expands and is pushed into the recovery container. When the engine cools, the coolant is pulled out of the recovery container back into the radiator. The recovery container usually has a hot level mark and a cold level mark. The coolant level should be visible.
With the engine cold, remove the cap. The radiator should be full. If it is not full, then the cap is not allowing the coolant back into the radiator.
Also, you might open the heater valve when the engine is running. This should remove any air that might be trapped in the heater core.
Hope this helps. Lee0 -
Lee O'Dell wrote:When the engine warms up, the coolant expands and is pushed into the recovery container. When the engine cools, the coolant is pulled out of the recovery container back into the radiator.
With the engine cold, remove the cap. The radiator should be full. If it is not full, then the cap is not allowing the coolant back into the radiator.
Also, you might open the heater valve when the engine is running. This should remove any air that might be trapped in the heater core.
Hope this helps. Lee
Full == Fluid completely covering core or up to the fill neck?
"open the heater valve when the engine is running" I am not exactly sure what you mean by this. Is it as simple as turning on the heater in the car?
As always, thanks.0 -
Up to the fill neck. Lee0
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I think the problem is that the upper radiator hose should have a spring inside it to prevent the hose from collapsing.0
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I agree there should be a spring in the hose. If the spring is corroded the weaked spring will allow the hose to collaps.0
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mars55 wrote:I think the problem is that the upper radiator hose should have a spring inside it to prevent the hose from collapsing.
I know that there is no spring in the upper hose. I wonder if Napa has those.0 -
I was looking at the picture of the top of the coolant recovery tank - is the hose (whatever) just pushed thru a hole in the cap?? If so there may be air being sucked into the coolant recovery tank, if not sealed properly, and thus into the system.
Just a thought.
Hudsonly,
Alex Burr
Memphis, TN0 -
Top (upper) hoses normally don't have springs in them and don't need them.
If your recovery tank is not vented (to the atmosphere) then you will have a harder time pulling liquid back into the radiator as it cools down. It also helps to have the recovery tank positioned as high as possible to shorten the vertical
distance that the radiator vacuum has to lift the coolant from the recovery
tank. Your system looks ok there but if mine I would loosen the cap on the
recovery tank and let the hose just hang and see if that eliminates the
partially collapsed hose. If it does then I'd just drill a small hole in the cap
of the recovery tank to vent it.0 -
I like hoses with a built in spring . Don't overlook a bad or too high presure cap . with the engine cold / hose collapsed flip the lever on the cap while watching the fluid in the recovery tank. If it pulls some out and /or the hose returns to normal that would indicate the vacume effect is there and the cap is preventing it , either bad or too high presure . BUD0
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I ran the car with the cap off, heat on, in an attempt to 'burp' any air out of the system. I then topped off the radiator and took it for a spin on the highway. At the end of the trip my reservoir was overflowing and I noticed that the overflow tube was basically foam running from the radiator to the reservoir. Is foam normal or should it be moving as just a green liquid?0
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I went to NAPA and bought a new radiator cap. It would be nice if it was that cheap and easy of a fix.0
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What I wrote last night must have been on my mind all night. When awoke I realized that upper radiator hoses don't have springs in them. Just to verify, I called my parts supplyer. He said no springs in upper hose and they no longer put springs in lower hoses either, because the pressure keeps them from collapsing.
There may be a problem with the filler neck length being wrong for the radiator. Therefore the spring pressure from the cap would make it difficult for the fluid getting back into the radiator. I only mention this because when I got my new radiator for my AMX the coolant would puke out when I would stop. It turned out I had the right cap for the car but the radiator had the wrong lenth filler neck. MY filler neck was too long so the cap could not seal. Got another cap for that length filler neck. Problem solved. This I'm sure was a rare problem.
I just had a wild thought that possibly your filler neck may be too short, and that the spring pressure in the cap would be to strong to allow fluid back into the radiator. That's probably not the case with your car.
Just need to make sure the cap you have is compatable with a recovery system. A cap for a none recovery system will not let coolant back into the radiator.
With the recovery bottle over flowing I hope there is no head gasket problem.
Lee0 -
mjsandbe wrote:Yesterday I noticed that the gasket around the goose-neck feeding my radiator was leaking, so I removed it, cleaned it up, and replaced it. Once that was done, I filled it up the brim with premixed 50/50 coolant. It was irritating because it was only a few months ago that I pulled the piece off to install a modern thermostat and close the bypass.
Today the family and I drove the Hudson into a nearby cruise-in, and when I opened the hood for someone to look at the 308, I noticed my upper radiator hose was collapsed :eek:
Could this be potentially 'normal' since my radiator found it level by filling up my overflow/reservoir and the overflow hose was submerged in coolant?
or
Is this a sign of really bad crap, like my recent experience with engine knock?0 -
Foam in the cooling system is NOT NORMAL. Several days ago you indicated you had an episode with the engine making noise... rattling was the comment I believe.
Your problem troubleshooting should now include a few more things.
One - do not run the car again until you have checked the oil for water. If water has entered the oiling system it will be a milky colored brown vis a vis it's normal color. If this is found you have a coolant leak into the oiling system. This is a VERY important check and one that needs to be done. If your findings are water in the oil ... do not run the engine again until the problem is found and corrected.
Two - if the head gasket has blown into a water passage... the compression will create bubbles in the coolant.
Three - if the oil check produces a positive result...NO milky color... remove the radiator cap and start the car. With bright light in hand look down the neck of the radiator. You are checking for bubbles.... if you see a steady stream of bubbles you have a coolant to compression leak... i.e. a leak from compression to coolant and this is usually a failed head gasket.
Four- if you see bubbles... it is time to check compression on all cylinders and carefully examine the plugs... as they may point to the location of the failed head gasket.
Hope the problem is something else... not so dramatic.
Good Luck0
This discussion has been closed.
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