Feeling Dumb again - trouble with timing light.
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I am looking for help, again, please.
My timing light arrived today - Actron CP7527 Inductive Timing Light
I attach it to the #1 plug (front of car), point it at my flywheel, fire the strobe, and NOTHING. I have seen a timing light on my car once before and the lines on the flywheel were plain as day. Trying to use the Actron CP7527 Inductive Timing Light I see nothing at all.
Can someone point out me error?
Thank you,
My timing light arrived today - Actron CP7527 Inductive Timing Light
I attach it to the #1 plug (front of car), point it at my flywheel, fire the strobe, and NOTHING. I have seen a timing light on my car once before and the lines on the flywheel were plain as day. Trying to use the Actron CP7527 Inductive Timing Light I see nothing at all.
Can someone point out me error?
Thank you,
0
Comments
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Some timing lights do not emit a bright enought light in the day light to see anything. I always paint my timing marks with white paint.0
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Some timing lights are set up for 12 volt systems. On mine I had to use 12 volt battery. One wire to number one spark plug wire, one wire to pos on 12 volt battery, and one wire from neg side of 12 volt battery to neg terminal on 6 volt in car. For this you can make a jumper wire. This should give you what your looking for.;)0
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mjsandbe wrote:I am looking for help, again, please.
My timing light arrived today - Actron CP7527 Inductive Timing Light
I attach it to the #1 plug (front of car), point it at my flywheel, fire the strobe, and NOTHING. I have seen a timing light on my car once before and the lines on the flywheel were plain as day. Trying to use the Actron CP7527 Inductive Timing Light I see nothing at all.
Can someone point out me error?
Thank you,
Is the timing light 6 or 12 volt? If it's 12 volt and hooked up to your 6 volt battery, it won't work. If it's 12 volt it will still work on your car. All you need is a 12 volt charger. Much easier than lugging a 12 volt battery around. Just hook up the leads to the charger terminals,(black to black, and red to red) and the induction lead to number one plug wire, and you should be good to go.
Gene.0 -
I keep a 6v "lantern battery" in the cabinet and use it on my 6v car. Just connect it in series with the car's battery.0
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My engine is 12V negagtive ground. I opened up the distributor to take a look and found my Petronix unit chewed up, so I am wondering if my timing is so far off I don't see the marks. This along with the engine knock, blown head gasket, ... is leaving me wondering if I will need an engine rebuild years before I expected.0
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Looks like a case where it's best to start at square one . As was sugested check the compression , if weak only where the head gasket blew put one in , check compression again , if OK put in a new pertronix , when it chewed up it threw timeing out and would cause ignition knock . could also have contributed to the blown head gasket . BUD0
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Can you post a pic of the distributor? would like to see how the module go chewed up.0
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51hornetA wrote:Can you post a pic of the distributor? would like to see how the module go chewed up.
Not the best pictures, but here they are0 -
I hate to be redundant here, and this isn't really something negative. I've seen several posts on here from people who have tried to "improve" on the original - 12 volt systems, special distributors, etc, etc, etc. And it just seems these conversions produce troubles every which way.
I think one of the problems is a lot of folks that have these problems cannot think "early" - by that I mean, they can't put their minds back into the time period of their car. Let's just take a 1950's car for example: these cars were a lot better then their ancestors by far. As the years went by engineering got better and smarter. But, engineering has brought us to todays cars which are relatively trouble free - and there-in lies the problem.
To live with a 1950's car (or earlier) you have to put your mind back to that period. You have to do certain things at certain times, grease jpbs. tune-ups, etc. A properly maintained 1950's Hudson will start when you want it to (in sub-zero weather, even - but how many people who live in the norther tier states take their Hudson out in the winter anyway,) take you where you want to go and do it in reasonably reliable fashion. Trouble is a lot of folks don't want to spend time doing the things that have to be done. Not everybody is a Walt Mordenti or Jack Smith was it. They want 2000 technology in a 1950's car - and the 1950's (go ahead, substitute any years here) cars were not designed for this.
Bottom line - keep it simple and go with what the engineers designed the car for.
My soap box.
Hudsonly,
Alex Burr
Memphis, TN0 -
hudsontech wrote:I hate to be redundant here, and this isn't really something negative. I've seen several posts on here from people who have tried to "improve" on the original - 12 volt systems, special distributors, etc, etc, etc. And it just seems these conversions produce troubles every which way.
I think one of the problems is a lot of folks that have these problems cannot think "early" - by that I mean, they can't put their minds back into the time period of their car. Let's just take a 1950's car for example: these cars were a lot better then their ancestors by far. As the years went by engineering got better and smarter. But, engineering has brought us to todays cars which are relatively trouble free - and there-in lies the problem.
To live with a 1950's car (or earlier) you have to put your mind back to that period. You have to do certain things at certain times, grease jpbs. tune-ups, etc. A properly maintained 1950's Hudson will start when you want it to (in sub-zero weather, even - but how many people who live in the norther tier states take their Hudson out in the winter anyway,) take you where you want to go and do it in reasonably reliable fashion. Trouble is a lot of folks don't want to spend time doing the things that have to be done. Not everybody is a Walt Mordenti or Jack Smith was it. They want 2000 technology in a 1950's car - and the 1950's (go ahead, substitute any years here) cars were not designed for this.
Bottom line - keep it simple and go with what the engineers designed the car for.
My soap box.
Hudsonly,
Alex Burr
Memphis, TN
For the most part, I agree with you Alex. Few classic car owners realize they must perform the required maintenance on these classics like Hudson recommends that it be done in the owners manual. A lot of owners of classic cars have become used to 100,000 mile transmission fluid, coolant and non-existant ignition maintenance that the new cars utilize, and forget how maintenance was done in the old days. But I believe a Hudson and it's owner can benefit from a few modern things like an upgraded electrical system, brake system, ignition and so on. Upgrading to 12 volts is not mandatory or gives any performance, but it is a lot easier to find a Headlamp, coil, bulbs, alternator, cigarette lighter element, etc at the local NAPA or Advance Auto parts in 12 volts than trying to hunt down 6 volt components. The same holds true with brakes. Hudson had an incredible triple safe brake set-up on these cars that worked very well, but I believe that a disc brake conversion (as well as seat belts) is a smart upgrade, again, if pads and/ or rotors are required, most auto parts outlets have them in stock, rather than having to hunt down obsolete brake drums wheel cylinders, etc. Upgrading the ignition system to breakerless is also a good idea, but I took different approach using the slant 6 Mopar conversion only because, again, if parts are needed, I can get them at Autozone, or anywhere, instead of having to call Pertronix and have the compoents sent via mail order in the event something fails.0 -
Something is definitely wrong there. I have had the same pertronix unit in my Hornet for 5 years. Zero problems with it. Looks like something was rubbing to chew it up like that. I remember you said you drilled out the breaker plate while it was in the car. Might be some of the metal pieces were spinning around in there and chewed it up.
I would pull that distributor and send it to Randy Maas to have him rebuild it for you. He will check everything make sure your counterweights are set right and install a new module plus fix any damage.0 -
OK - can someone find some Hudson fender covers for mjsandbe?
Putting those nasty parts on such a fine looking car
Be patient - shes an old car.0 -
rambos_ride wrote:OK - can someone find some Hudson fender covers for mjsandbe?
Putting those nasty parts on such a fine looking car
Be patient - shes an old car.
Club Store sells 'em.0 -
rambos_ride wrote:OK - can someone find some Hudson fender covers for mjsandbe?
Putting those nasty parts on such a fine looking car
Be patient - shes an old car.
I hear you. Usually it goes on, but in the last few days I have been out of sorts with the problems spiraling out of control and towards a total rebuild.0 -
And by the way, Michael - I was not trying to "down" you for converting your Hudson. My post was of a general nature, not aimed at putting anybody down.
Hudsonly,
Alex Burr
Memphis, TN0
This discussion has been closed.
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