Rear Brake Drum

[Deleted User]
[Deleted User]
edited November -1 in HUDSON
My rear brake drum is stuck on the 41 C6S. It looks like someone must have hammered in the key way, one problem. I lubed it with some oil to try to penetrate the drum to no avail. Maybe a torch tomorrow? Any ideas? Thanks

Comments

  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    Do you have a good heavy duty hub pulled on it to remove? What ever you do, do not hit the puller in the center for you will break the block in the center of the spider gears, now you are in trouble. Walt.
  • Jon B
    Jon B Administrator
    Let's troubleshoot this, step by step. Have you...



    1). Released the emergency brake (and the drum turns freely?



    2). Backed off (but not removed) the axle nut?



    3). Used the correct type hub puller? And you're saying that when you hit the dogbones with a heavy hammer, nothing happens?



    Just want to make sure we're all on the same page before we start throwing out ideas...
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    Released the emergency brake (and the drum turns freely? Yes

    Backed off (but not removed) the axle nut? Yes

    Used the correct type hub puller? Yes

    And you're saying that when you hit the dogbones with a heavy hammer, nothing happens? Correct. It seems that someone hammered the key way in and now the drum is stuck.
  • Uncle Josh
    Uncle Josh Senior Contributor
    Well, the keyway is soft steel so you could drill the hammered part out if that's the case.



    Remove the anchor pin nut on the top rear of the backing plate for good measure.



    You can get a little more concentrated torque if you support one end of the dog-bone on a block of wood or something while you whale on the other end.



    Some quick intense heat on the hub with a torch might release it while you have it snorked up good.



    Keep whackin, you'll think it'll never break loose, and when it does, it'll scare the b'jeebers out of ya.



    It's on what's called in the machining business as a 'locking taper' and if it gets a little rust in there or the key gets mashed, it locks worse.



    One has never beaten me yet! Good luck
  • Jon B
    Jon B Administrator
    All of these are good ideas. The jammed key is a new one on me, sorry to hear that. One thing that's worked for me is, when I get the puller really tight, I tap the drum all around its perimeter with a hammer to set up a vibration. Sometimes that'll be enough to bust it loose. But, maybe you're already tried that one.



    Regarding the heat, I recall one person at this Forum suggesting that one build a charcoal fire beneath the drum (you could build this in an old pan and slide it in and out from under the drum). You could rotate the drum to get it evenly hot all 'round. This is in case you don't have an adequate torch.
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    Finally sucess! Thanks for all the feedback. That sucker really took off. The inner seal bearings are shot any ideas? They don't stock them at my local Napa parts store. Thanks
  • Geoff
    Geoff Senior Contributor
    hese inner bearings (25877T) have been mentioned before, and I have also advised severaltimes, to keep them lubricated, but still this happens, as people seem unaware that they are there, or the plugs for lubrication. I don;t know why Hudson didn't just fit grease fittings, then people may have realised that they needed attention. I don't know where you are going to get new bearings. Seals are no problem.
  • Uncle Josh
    Uncle Josh Senior Contributor
    Er...I didn't know seals had bearings. They must GET their bearings because they migrate without getting lost....but I digress.



    I assume you're talking about the first seal you see, between the bearing and the drum.

    I list a Victor 49218 or a National CR 17310

    for 36-54
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    Thanks for the link. I found the seals and now I have my bearings straight. I just put new shoes, hoses , wheel cylinders and master cylinder on her. This forum is great!
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    My 2 cents on Drum Hub removal.I didn't know where to get a Hudson Puller. What worked for me for on my 51 hornet & the "new" Dana 307. Buy a universal puller from ADVANCED Auto ($90 you get a full refumd when you return it.) Also a AIR IMPACT HAMMER from Harbor Freight Tools $10.00. Also aprox. 1/8 thick large whashers to space the puller evenly away from the drum as the puller doesn't quite fit over the drum flange. I used a long breaker bar, appling as much pressure as I could using the puller. Then use the Impact Hammer on the Hub close to the shaft. All four "Popped" right off.
    I tried heat (Burn-o-matic) and whacking the end off the puller with a large hammer withot sucess. Note: I agree with previous post saying that whacking the end of the puller/shaft is a BAD idea.
    Also was happy to discover that the Drums from the Hudson rear fit the Dana.
  • Marconi
    Marconi Senior Contributor
    Just to let you guys know, Jason at Vintage Coach HAS the reaar axle bearings, and inner and outer seals! Tues. thru Sat. 8am to 5pm xcept this Sat.
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