Ray's 1952 Hornet restoration
![[Deleted User]](https://openforum.hetclub.org/applications/dashboard/design/images/defaulticon.png)
Need help with supporting parts in attached pictures, if any member after reading below has parts and or recommedation to help experdite restotation I'd appreciate it an benefit of your pass experiences..Please email me...See update of Allen's last email to me, in all fairness to Allen, I gave him boxes of parts and didn't know if everything/parts equired were included to put puzzle back together again?
"The hood has been bolted on for a few weeks now. . Not done on the hood is the support/holding springs. I am not going to use the gas shock. [I emailed Dan's web-site for hood gas shocks]... It is more work than nessacery. We have the original bars and spring which work just as good. The hood latch plate not on. you have 2 of them. first one is badly bent and second one is slightly bend. will take about 30 minutes to fix it. The striker that goes on the hood you only have one is broken. Good thing same as GM but I have to take it off a hood I cant get to out back with out moving several things. So not done yet.
Below are just a few problem with installing the rockers. first picture, Is a rear bracket that goes on the body that the rocker attaches to. The problem. This one is completely rotted (missing metal even)and wont hold the rocker up. This is the only one we have. But there needs to be one for both side. So Now I have to hand make two of them using this rotted one as a pattern if I can. I can do it no problem. Problem is making 2 by hand will probably take a full day to do. Then needs to be painted. Next problem another rocker bracket that we only have one of. But need one for the other side. No picture of this one.
Next problem of today. There is a big space between the inner side of the quarter panel and the frame rails. What seals this from water??? Found it. A metal plate. Only have one side pictured. And it needs some kind on rubber seal because there is still a 1" gap between the two. So have to make one for the other side and find some thing to seal it with. There is also a space in the rear trunk area. Guessing just a rubber seal goes there. We don’t have any of this. What seal will work I don’t know. Have to look at different shape
seals and see what will work best. On the same note. There is a big space between the rocker and were it meets at the door seal plate.
From one of the pictures you sent me it looks like there is another piece of painted metal that fills this space. Makes since to me. Again we have no such piece of metal here for it. Will have to make something or find them. Which I dough you can find in rust free shape. Again I can do no problem. How much time will is take, my guess 3-4 days maybe more by the time I make a pattern then cut metal and bend, paint.
Headlight holding spring. Only have one."
"The hood has been bolted on for a few weeks now. . Not done on the hood is the support/holding springs. I am not going to use the gas shock. [I emailed Dan's web-site for hood gas shocks]... It is more work than nessacery. We have the original bars and spring which work just as good. The hood latch plate not on. you have 2 of them. first one is badly bent and second one is slightly bend. will take about 30 minutes to fix it. The striker that goes on the hood you only have one is broken. Good thing same as GM but I have to take it off a hood I cant get to out back with out moving several things. So not done yet.
Below are just a few problem with installing the rockers. first picture, Is a rear bracket that goes on the body that the rocker attaches to. The problem. This one is completely rotted (missing metal even)and wont hold the rocker up. This is the only one we have. But there needs to be one for both side. So Now I have to hand make two of them using this rotted one as a pattern if I can. I can do it no problem. Problem is making 2 by hand will probably take a full day to do. Then needs to be painted. Next problem another rocker bracket that we only have one of. But need one for the other side. No picture of this one.
Next problem of today. There is a big space between the inner side of the quarter panel and the frame rails. What seals this from water??? Found it. A metal plate. Only have one side pictured. And it needs some kind on rubber seal because there is still a 1" gap between the two. So have to make one for the other side and find some thing to seal it with. There is also a space in the rear trunk area. Guessing just a rubber seal goes there. We don’t have any of this. What seal will work I don’t know. Have to look at different shape
seals and see what will work best. On the same note. There is a big space between the rocker and were it meets at the door seal plate.
From one of the pictures you sent me it looks like there is another piece of painted metal that fills this space. Makes since to me. Again we have no such piece of metal here for it. Will have to make something or find them. Which I dough you can find in rust free shape. Again I can do no problem. How much time will is take, my guess 3-4 days maybe more by the time I make a pattern then cut metal and bend, paint.
Headlight holding spring. Only have one."
0
Comments
-
One more picture with progress to date, have appointment with upholstery shop on August 31 after he completes Pierce Arrow interior; guy does great work...Hoping Allen will get balance of work done before towing car to Vegas upholsterer?0
-
Ray Check Voice Mail at your home phone... questions are answered there... if you see this first... check with AL Saffhran in AZ for all the parts you need... his contact information is in ROSTER or on my website... Your COUPE is LOOKING SUPER!!!0
-
Heart_Of_Texas wrote:Ray Check Voice Mail at your home phone... questions are answered there... if you see this first... check with AL Saffhran in AZ for all the parts you need... his contact information is in ROSTER or on my website... Your COUPE is LOOKING SUPER!!!
Good Evening Ken,
I had called Jason in Fontana this morning and then when I returned home saw your message and listened to your phone call message and want to thank you for both; I called Allen and played your message and then gave him both Al & Jason's numbers; as expected parts in question are extremely difficult to find (especially for a coupe) may have to fabricate parts and will look and take pictures of a friend's '53 coupe tomorrow.
Thanks again,
Ray0 -
Tried Al & Jason, for supporting parts that go on top of rocker panels in picture painted maroon, if anyone has good L/R in decent shape please let me know, if not Allen will have no other alternative to make them...I remember reading on FORUM a long time ago, some one was making Hudson plate, does anyon know ppoint of contact I can possibly buy a set for coupe? Still could use striker bolt, and surrounding hood spring, also headlight spring.
Thanks,
Ray0 -
Ray I'm sure some one here will remember who it was but I do remember the guy repopping the door sills was in Florida but I swear I cant think of his name Ken Cates or Alex or maybe Jon B might know who I am thinking of.
Bob0 -
BJ__TN wrote:Ray I'm sure some one here will remember who it was but I do remember the guy repopping the door sills was in Florida but I swear I cant think of his name Ken Cates or Alex or maybe Jon B might know who I am thinking of.
Bob
Thanks Bob,
I checked Ken's most informative web-site and didn't find anyone, I keep thinking members last name was Hudson?
Ray0 -
Hi
I have bought here .....
DOORSILLS
81 GRAHAM AV.
NORTH HALEDON N.J 07508 U.S.A
PH. 973 423 1196
FAX 973 904 0433
PIERRE0 -
Ray,
Here are pictures of the door sills that Victor made for me for a 55 Studebaker Champion Sedan. These are stainless. He can make them in Stainless or Aluminum.
http://www.themetalworks.net/gallery/
http://s294.photobucket.com/albums/mm97/studebaker2/55%20Champion%20stainless%20door%20sills/
0 -
Ray-
After talking with Ken, did you get all your questions answered?
As far as the re-popped door sills go, Kenneth Hudson, I believe was the member making these. I bought a set many years ago, but I had heard a rumor that he was not making them anymore, unsubstantiated, of course. I know Dany Spring at one time was talking of having some made. You know as well as I, that the 2DRs are increasingly hard to find, as far as originals go, but I bought a set not too long ago from Stu Coleman, who might have some more. Check with Al Saffrahn, as well. Even in somewhat rough shape, the originals can be brought back to like new condition quite easily. Keep in mind that your model would have had the "HUDSON" script in the middle of the sill, if that is important to you.0 -
pierre from france wrote:Hi
I have bought here .....
DOORSILLS
81 GRAHAM AV.
NORTH HALEDON N.J 07508 U.S.A
PH. 973 423 1196
FAX 973 904 0433
PIERRE
What a great club we all belong in, all the way from France with above input; my thanks to Pierre for information of which I will call Monday morning...
Thanks again,
Ray0 -
Kdancy wrote:Ray,
Here are pictures of the door sills that Victor made for me for a 55 Studebaker Champion Sedan. These are stainless. He can make them in Stainless or Aluminum.
http://www.themetalworks.net/gallery/
http://s294.photobucket.com/albums/mm97/studebaker2/55%20Champion%20stainless%20door%20sills/
Good Morning Kdancy,
Wow, your Studebaker will have bright smile when opening door(s) sills look great, have you installed yet, do they fit properly, same guage metal as originals, if you don't mind me asking and I realize cost will not be the same, what did Victor charge? Lastly do you have a telephone or email address point of contact?
Thanks,
Ray0 -
RL Chilton wrote:Ray-
After talking with Ken, did you get all your questions answered?
As far as the re-popped door sills go, Kenneth Hudson, I believe was the member making these. I bought a set many years ago, but I had heard a rumor that he was not making them anymore, unsubstantiated, of course. I know Dany Spring at one time was talking of having some made. You know as well as I, that the 2DRs are increasingly hard to find, as far as originals go, but I bought a set not too long ago from Stu Coleman, who might have some more. Check with Al Saffrahn, as well. Even in somewhat rough shape, the originals can be brought back to like new condition quite easily. Keep in mind that your model would have had the "HUDSON" script in the middle of the sill, if that is important to you.
Good Morning Russ,
I thought the last name of member being Hudson was making sills, but as you said may not be making any more? I'll try and check with Dany and Stu, already checked with Al and Jason in Fontana; no luck there. Restoring a coupe is so much more difficult than sedan, fortunately I have my sills which aren't beat up and had them polished on high speed chrome shop wheels, however paint design resolution (Hudson script & triangle's lost identity) I also want to save Allen time from making long maroon piece in yesterday's posted pictures, looks like three bends and screwed to frame goes on before sills supporting rocker panel, just cuious to learn if anyone is making those two/left-right pieces? Car is 95% complete and trying to button up with difficult supporting parts, should be finihing interior door panels, carpeting, kick panels on Sept. 4th just waiting for upholstery shop to finish Pierce Arrow (see pictures).
Thanks Russ0 -
Ray wrote:Good Morning Kdancy,
Wow, your Studebaker will have bright smile when opening door(s) sills look great, have you installed yet, do they fit properly, same guage metal as originals, if you don't mind me asking and I realize cost will not be the same, what did Victor charge? Lastly do you have a telephone or email address point of contact?
Thanks,
Ray
Ray, here is Victor's e-mail (themetalworks1@windstream.net)
I drilled out the mounting holes. The fit was fine. Aluminum would be less than stainless and more like the original ones. Easier to work with.
Please drop him an e-mail and he can give you the particulars. May be a market here for some one to set up and do these?0 -
That's a nice Pierce. A friend of mine just sold his '27. Super cars.
The black in the sills can be painted back in by spraying all of it, and wiping or sanding the top, or by hand-painting the details. Polishing usually isn't the way to go for the very reason you mentioned, in that some of the "detail" is ground away. Best to "sand" these back into shape with very fine sandpaper in only two directions, front to back. Essentially, they originally had a fairly "flat" finish, and 400-grit gets them even shinier than original.
Keep in mind that the re-pops, at least the ones I've seen, are not stamped, and the triangle pattern and the "HUDSON" is stenciled onto a flat surface. Originals were stamped and these areas were recessed. In the restoration phase, this aspect makes it a lot easier to restore these sills.0 -
RL Chilton wrote:That's a nice Pierce. A friend of mine just sold his '27. Super cars.
The black in the sills can be painted back in by spraying all of it, and wiping or sanding the top, or by hand-painting the details. Polishing usually isn't the way to go for the very reason you mentioned, in that some of the "detail" is ground away. Best to "sand" these back into shape with very fine sandpaper in only two directions, front to back. Essentially, they originally had a fairly "flat" finish, and 400-grit gets them even shinier than original.
Keep in mind that the re-pops, at least the ones I've seen, are not stamped, and the triangle pattern and the "HUDSON" is stenciled onto a flat surface. Originals were stamped and these areas were recessed. In the restoration phase, this aspect makes it a lot easier to restore these sills.
Hi Russ,
Thanks for input and recommendations...RE: my re-pops concerns; after normal wear and tear stenciled sills will lose both Hudson & triangle pattern therefore maybe waste of money? Although I've already emailed Victor and hope to talk with him next week, checked him to see if he could also make three bend steel piece under sills and brackets pictured in my start/initial FORUM message, if I can get these made it would save some time?
Ray0 -
Ray-
Yes, that was mostly my point, and a point of concern, at least to some extent. Paint would more easily wear off, but really, how often do you put your feet on the door sills, anyway? I put a set on my sedan several years ago, so far so good, and I still have the originals to restore, if necessary.
"Originality Sticklers" might not approve of the stenciled re-pops, but unless you get your nose down there to them, you can't really tell.
In my mind, the most pertinent question is, are they still available? Don't know the answer to that one as of this writing.
As to those other pieces, I'd say yes, just make 'em.0 -
RL Chilton wrote:Ray-
Yes, that was mostly my point, and a point of concern, at least to some extent. Paint would more easily wear off, but really, how often do you put your feet on the door sills, anyway? I put a set on my sedan several years ago, so far so good, and I still have the originals to restore, if necessary.
"Originality Sticklers" might not approve of the stenciled re-pops, but unless you get your nose down there to them, you can't really tell.
In my mind, the most pertinent question is, are they still available? Don't know the answer to that one as of this writing.
As to those other pieces, I'd say yes, just make 'em.
Thanks Russ,
I received following answer "Raymond, If you send me original peices i can give you an estement and use old parts as pattron. thanks victor" from Victor web-site he apparently doesn't have Hudson sill template and requested mailing of my sills, from his web-site http://www.themetalworks.net/gallery/ under services I was hoping he had correct pattern..I am now thinking to just restore mine and before doing so follow up on Pierre's lead in the morning...
Ray0 -
Ray wrote:Thanks Russ,
I received following answer "Raymond, If you send me original peices i can give you an estement and use old parts as pattron. thanks victor" from Victor web-site he apparently doesn't have Hudson sill template and requested mailing of my sills, from his web-site http://www.themetalworks.net/gallery/ under services I was hoping he had correct pattern..I am now thinking to just restore mine and before doing so follow up on Pierre's lead in the morning...
Ray
If you mean "yours", in reference to the ones on the car, I'd say just restore those. Unless they show something not seen in the pictures, they are in fine shape. Like I said, they can be sanded back in to near perfection and paint can be replaced as needed. New stainless screws to top it off and you are in business.
There IS a market for these if you want to follow up with Victor in making some sets. I'd warrant to guess you could sell 10 sets (2DR variety) just here on the forum faster than you could get them made.0 -
I put 3m clear paint protective film on mine to help prevent scuffing. It has worked out find so far.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Paint-Protection-Film-3M-Scotchcal-48-X60-Cheap-Clear-/320565316075?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories0 -
Thanks Allen,
Contacted two different makers of door sills one has patterns of every car made from A-Z and use to supply Ken Hudson who sold his business, also K-Gap use to purchase from them, name of the company is DOORSILLS and telephone number (973) 423-1196 price is reasonable,but require 8-9 month lead time. Also contacted Victor at http://www.themetalworks.net/gallery/
http://s294.photobucket.com/albums/m...0door%20sills/ who can make sills and other related parts; he's also reasonable with price's but required samples to copy, as we have door sills and rocket panel bracket pieces to send, however supporting piece that goes under door sill we don't have, Victor said to send him pictures and measurements for that piece and he could make, my concern being off 1/8 of inch would cause adjustment for correct fix; his delivery time is less than two weeks? I can visit 1953 Hornet/Bill's car again this week and take more pictures and measurements, but if Al has rust free good condition parts we can save time and trouble? If not, maybe we can borrow/rent/buy piece in picture and have Victor make?
Ray0 -
Ray-
I made a set of those pieces you have outlined underneath the door sills. Not real tough. Afterwards, I found out Paul Schuster had several sets made and was selling them. I bought a set from him as well. Only difference from the originals was that the originals had a slight curve front to rear to match curve of body. A quick job on the shrinker took care of that. Just have to match up holes and drill.
I'd contact Paul and see if he has any more, first. Price was reasonable.0 -
RL Chilton wrote:Ray-
I made a set of those pieces you have outlined underneath the door sills. Not real tough. Afterwards, I found out Paul Schuster had several sets made and was selling them. I bought a set from him as well. Only difference from the originals was that the originals had a slight curve front to rear to match curve of body. A quick job on the shrinker took care of that. Just have to match up holes and drill.
I'd contact Paul and see if he has any more, first. Price was reasonable.
Thanks Russ,
I just emailed Paul...
Ray0 -
Ray wrote:Thanks Russ,
I just emailed Paul...
Ray
Hi Russ,
These are my doors sill after polishing on high speed wheel, no way I will use, but for the purpose of sending as sample to door sill shop to copy; they are good enough. I may use shop that Dkancy recommended who made Studebaker sills, if anybody with coupe or convertible wants a set let me know?
Ray0
This discussion has been closed.
Categories
- 37K All Categories
- 106 Hudson 1916 - 1929
- 19 Upcoming Events
- 91 Essex Super 6
- 28.6K HUDSON
- 559 "How To" - Skills, mechanical and other wise
- 993 Street Rods
- 150 American Motors
- 173 The Flathead Forum
- 49 Manuals, etc,.
- 78 Hudson 8
- 44 FORUM - Instructions and Tips on using the forum
- 2.8K CLASSIFIEDS
- 599 Vehicles
- 2.1K Parts & Pieces
- 77 Literature & Memorabilia
- Hudson 1916 - 1929 Yahoo Groups Archived Photos