Running Hot.
Finally I thought that I fixed the overheating problem with a new thermostat. After driving for 20 mins the 41 C6S was getting up to 190 and still climbing ( 69-70 degree weather). I pulled off the freeway and when I finally stopped driving 60 MPH she started to cool back down to 180. I've put new hoses, flushed the radiator, new 160 degree thermostat, restored water baffle and added a overflow bottle. I'm waiting for the reman waterpump. The waterpump on there now is leaking from the bleeder valve ( grease fitting) it is not making any growling noises. At this point I'm thinking I need to have the radiator boiled out. Is there anything else that I may be overlooking? What is the normal range that the car should be running at? Everytime I get off the freeway she's about to blow especially at an idle. Please help. Thanks.
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Comments
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Sounds like your heating problem may be caused by[A] plugged radiator, have it rodded out, radiator hose collapsing at speed,or [C] leaking head gasket. probably not the gasket as it wouldn,t really cool off at slow or idle speeds.0
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Ottobethere wrote:Finally I thought that I fixed the overheating problem with a new thermostat. After driving for 20 mins the 41 C6S was getting up to 190 and still climbing ( 69-70 degree weather). I pulled off the freeway and when I finally stopped driving 60 MPH she started to cool back down to 180. I've put new hoses, flushed the radiator, new 160 degree thermostat, restored water baffle and added a overflow bottle. I'm waiting for the reman waterpump. The waterpump on there now is leaking from the bleeder valve ( grease fitting) it is not making any growling noises. At this point I'm thinking I need to have the radiator boiled out. Is there anything else that I may be overlooking? What is the normal range that the car should be running at? Everytime I get off the freeway she's about to blow especially at an idle. Please help. Thanks.0
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Be sure to at least have a flow check done on the radiator, to make sure it's not clogged up.0
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walt's garage-53 wrote:You have one of 2 problems, on your 212 engine. Make sure you have a spring in the lower hose that keeps it from collapsing when you speed up the engine. Second, the water jacket on the left side of the engine may have the inner panel rotted away, which you will have to remove to check. That panel has holes that flows the water to all cylinders and valve seats. Walt.
Hey Walt,
Is it possible to just get the spring from the auto parts by itself? And would you or anyone have any numbers for them?
Thanks!
Jeff0 -
jjbubaboy wrote:Hey Walt,
Is it possible to just get the spring from the auto parts by itself? And would you or anyone have any numbers for them?
Thanks!
Jeff0 -
As said there are several suspects. Best do a systematic check doing the easy ones first . Look for bubbles in radiator when hot with thermostat open, if there a bad head gasket, at the same time look to see if water is circulateing, if not back flush the radiator , if it is and no bubbles then I would check the inner baffle plate and steam the block out while you have it off, from the side and from the head . For the lower hose I use a peice of exhaust pipe with a 90 degree bend and 2 short hoses to connect it. You could also have a bad pump with the impeller slipping at high rpm {more presure agaist it } These engines are really not hard to cool .0
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All the above all have great ideas and should hold the remedy you require, when I read the initial post at the top I saw that you didn't mention that you have put any anti freeze in there, which is good for both corrosion and if I remember rightly helps bring down even a normal running temperature
just a thought
Mike0 -
essexcoupe3131 wrote:All the above all have great ideas and should hold the remedy you require, when I read the initial post at the top I saw that you didn't mention that you have put any anti freeze in there, which is good for both corrosion and if I remember rightly helps bring down even a normal running temperature
just a thought
Mike
Just another thought. My Dad thought if a little anti freeze was good then straight anti freeze would be better. He found out wrong. Straight anti freeze caused his overheating problem.
Straight water is the best coolant. However, the anti freeze gives the water the corrosion protection the engine needs.
Redline Water Wetter additive will aid the water/anti freeze ability to cool the system by keeping the bubbles off the cylinder walls and head. All those tiny bubbles act as an insulator between the engine and the water. I was sceptical about that but when I tried it there was a reduction of the water temp.
Lee0 -
Has anybody changed the fan? Someone had once told me they put a 6 blade fan from a late 60's Mopar which helped move a little more air. I put my hands on a 7 blade one (the bolt holes line right up, but it's too big...it hits the lower hose).
Has anybody else tried that or doing that? If so, which fan are you using?0 -
I changed mine out for a 6 blade fan I got from JEG's. Seems to be working great!
Jeff0 -
I got a six blade nylon flex fan from Summit. They come in four sizes: 15", 16",
17" and 18" diameter. Pulls alot more air through the radiator. Each one cost $15.95.
Lee0
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