Help installing a rebuilt fuel pump.

[Deleted User]
[Deleted User]
edited November -1 in HUDSON
Hello... I am installing a rebuilt mech. fuel pump in my 1952 Hudson Hornet. The rebuilt fuel pump came with a thin paper gasket, but the one I took off had a thick rubber/metal type gasket? Should I put the old gasket on that was a a lot thicker, or just put the new paper one on? Here are some pics.... Thank you very much!

Comments

  • schillaz
    schillaz Expert Adviser
    Im not an expert but im pretty sure you need to make sure you keep the same thickness between the fuel pump and the block, if the pumps are the same.

    That arm that extends out of the fuel pump rides on a cam shaft lobe and if you dont get it in the correct position your pump may not be getting the correct lift to pump correctly.
  • ski4life65
    ski4life65 Expert Adviser
    Yes, use the thick gasket.
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    Okay.. thanks... Second question.... Can you take a look at this gasket? There is some rubber missing near the bolt holes on both sides? Obviously it would be best to replace, but I don't know where I can get one... Do you think this will work? Or could I add some sort of silicon? (at least until after this weekends car show?)
  • Jim Kilday
    Jim Kilday Expert Adviser
    edited October 2010
    You can get a replacement gasket from Walt's Garage. Walt Mordenti.
  • GrimGreaser
    GrimGreaser Senior Contributor
    edited October 2010
    Follow-up question...

    What if your unsure of the fuel-pump and engines history? My pump has a thin gasket between it and the block. Is there a thickness spec at all, or is it simply going by what was on there to begin with?

    I have a '52 Hornet 308 w/ the double-action pump.

    Thanks.
  • Kdancy
    Kdancy Senior Contributor
    In this issue (september/october 2010)of the WTN, there is a good article on the fuel pump issue. It seems that on the electric fuel pumps, none of the replacement bellows will handle modern day gas very long.
    On the mechanical replacement pump a lot of owners are using, a mid 70's AMC jeep 6 fuel pump, the gasket stack needs to be .450 to .460 compressed. That moves the pump out far enough to allow the pump arm to move in its normal operating travel.
  • RonS
    RonS Senior Contributor
    As the guys previously stated there is a gasket "stack" that is necessary to keep the pump actuating arm spaced properly below the camshaft lobe. Turn the engine slowly until the lobe is in a position as not to misalign the bolts as you push in the arm or you will have a tough time trying to seat the pump. One thing that is recommended, whomever you purchase the gasket "stack" from, ask if he can supply the insulators for the bolts. Each bolt has a fiber(phonalic) washer and a small tube that the bolts pass through. This is to aid in keeping engine block heat from passing into the fuel pump, putting off vapor lock a bit. Al Saffrahn sells these.
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    The last poster was correct about the heat. I have allways heard the
    spacer was as much about stopping vaporlock as spacing.
    However with that later model AMC substitute pump it will tear it up without the
    spacer.
    The same situation exists with the Jet .
    Roger
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    Thanks everyone!
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