Valve adjusting tip
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I have not seen this method discussed on here or maybe I missed it. Anyway I am putting this out for all to see, especially newbies, of which I am one.
First off, make yourself a test light with alligator-like clips on each lead. Remove the spark plugs and manually roll the engine over until the timing line aligns with the pointer. Be sure that the distributor rotor is pointing at number 1. Hook up your test light, one lead to ground and the other to the primary lead on the coil. Turn the key on and if your alignment is correct the test light should come on. Now, loosen the distributor and gently rotate counterclockwise until the test light goes out. Then gently rotate the distributor clockwise until the light just comes on. At this point the engine is at TDC and the points are just starting to open. Snug down the distributor, be sure light stays on, and adjust the valves for number one. Now on to the next cylinder. Manually roll the engine over clockwise until the light goes out and then comes back on again. When it comes on, roll the engine counterclockwise until the light goes out. Then gently as you can roll the engine clockwise until the test light just pops on. Adjust the valves for that cylinder. At this point you are now an expert and you just move through the firing order adjusting the valves as you go.
Your starting point for number one is crucial. Be sure that the points are in the preopening position before you rotate the distributor clockwise. By this I mean that the lobe on the distributor shaft is to the left of the lobe on the points. Once you get that established as perfectly as you can then everything else just falls in line.
For rolling the engine over I use a large socket on the front pulley with a breaker bar.
Hope this helps someone,
Doug
First off, make yourself a test light with alligator-like clips on each lead. Remove the spark plugs and manually roll the engine over until the timing line aligns with the pointer. Be sure that the distributor rotor is pointing at number 1. Hook up your test light, one lead to ground and the other to the primary lead on the coil. Turn the key on and if your alignment is correct the test light should come on. Now, loosen the distributor and gently rotate counterclockwise until the test light goes out. Then gently rotate the distributor clockwise until the light just comes on. At this point the engine is at TDC and the points are just starting to open. Snug down the distributor, be sure light stays on, and adjust the valves for number one. Now on to the next cylinder. Manually roll the engine over clockwise until the light goes out and then comes back on again. When it comes on, roll the engine counterclockwise until the light goes out. Then gently as you can roll the engine clockwise until the test light just pops on. Adjust the valves for that cylinder. At this point you are now an expert and you just move through the firing order adjusting the valves as you go.
Your starting point for number one is crucial. Be sure that the points are in the preopening position before you rotate the distributor clockwise. By this I mean that the lobe on the distributor shaft is to the left of the lobe on the points. Once you get that established as perfectly as you can then everything else just falls in line.
For rolling the engine over I use a large socket on the front pulley with a breaker bar.
Hope this helps someone,
Doug
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Comments
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Doug:
Enjoyed your article and advice on setting the points for valve timing.
Just recently did mine and was lucky to have help.
I remembered several years ago that someone had a bracket that was used to hold the lifter secure so the lock nut could be turned. I may have this info backwards.
But I would like to have one of those brackets, so if anyone knows who produced it, would appreciate being able to locate the bracket.
Thanks for the information, Bob P0 -
That would be Norm Blackmer of the Cal Inland Chapter. His phone # is909-984-5544.0
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Last time I did valve adjustments, I discovered in my bits and pieces a set of stepped feeler gauges which I think are very useful. The feelers are ground 2 thou thinner at the tip, if the body is 14 thou the tip is 12 thou, if the body is 17 thou the tip is 15 thou etc. ABW brand, I think they come from the US.
So with the inlet valves for instance, I'm setting them cold at 12 thou and I use the 12/14 feeler gauge. I set the tappet clearance so the 12 thou end slips in easily, no friction, and the 14 thou won't go. Its nice and quick and I end up with a clearance somewhere between 12.5 thou and 13.5 thou. I prefer to know my valve clearances are a little over rather than a little under.0 -
The way I adjust mechancial lifters on an overhead valve engine is Exhaust just starts to open ,adjust Intake, Intake just starts to close , adjust Exhaust. This puts adjacant lifter on the heal of the cam so you get the proper adjustment. I don't see why you couldn't do this on a flathead or any motor with mechanical lifters. Jim0
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Bob - I have some tappet holduing tools in stock. If you are intersted give me a call. Norman Blackmer- (909) 984 55440
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Norman:
Called, no answer, will try Sun if you havent called me. Thanks, Bob P0
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