8 Cyl Valve Adjustment Guide?

I did have this marked out, but it has got mislaid somewhere. However, all you need to do is follow the firing order of 1 6 2 5 8 3 7 4. Start with No. 1 exhaust valve up, and adjust Number 8 exhaust. Turn the engine over 1/8" of a turn and number 6 exhaust valve will be up, so adjust Number 3 exhaust. Then in order 2 up 7 adj, 5 up 4 adj, 8 up 1 adj, 3 up 6 adj, 7 up 2 adj, 4 up 5 adj. Next go to Number 1 inlet valve up and do all the inlets in exactly the same order. Set them cold at .010 inlet and .012" exhaust, and then when hot re-set to .008 and .010"
So here is the order again with the valve up first, valve to adjust in brackets.
1 (8), 6 (3), 2 (7), 5 (4), 8 (1), 3 (6), 7 (2), 4 (5).

Not really wanting to question Geoff's procedure as I've learned LOTS of great
tips from his articles and posts. BUT,I don't understand your 1/8 of a turn
between adjustments. My thinking is it would be no different than a V8 in that
720*(two crankshaft revolutions) complete a 4 stroke cycle. Divide that by #
of cylinders(8) and get 90*(1/4 turn) between consecutive cylinders in the
firing order. Am I missing something???

I've used a tip learned from an old Pan Am line mechanic that taught an
engine course in the aviation school I attended. His rule was IC and EO
and his trick for not mixing it up was IC = internal combustion, so we
could remember it. IC = intake closing meaning while rotating the engine
in the direction it runs, as the intake valve is just about closed the
exhaust valve (in that cylinder)is on the base circle of the camshaft and
ready to set the lash (clearance). Same thing with EO = exhaust opening,
meaning that as the exhaust valve is just beginning to open,the intake
is on the base circle and ready for adjustment. This method has served
me well for decades and I've never had a problem with it. It also allows
you to adjust cylinders in any order which I believe (at least for me)
makes it easier NOT to skip a cylinder while chasing a firing order.I
normally just start at the front and work to the back.
I you give this a shot,post back and let me know what you think.

If you can work with three arms, standing on your head, you may be able to do it without removing the inner fender, but otherwise, yes it has to come out. Take the front wheel off and remove the inner fender. On thirties models there is a removable panel that comes out to gain access. It helps to be a contortionist to hang over the front brake drum and suspension arm.