New question re installing Belt Weatherstrip

[Deleted User]
[Deleted User]
edited November -1 in HUDSON
My installation of the window channel is going well. I am now ready to attach the Belt Weatherstrip to the bottom of the stainless trim that surrounds the window. I bought the kit from Vic's Automotive Window Channeling. To install the weatherstrip his instructions say to "use 1/8" aluminum pop rivets 5 to 6 inches apart". I really question that method. First off I am concerned about tearing the felt fabric while drilling a hole in the weatherstrip to accomodate the rivet. Secondly it seems to me that the rivet will scrape on the glass and also hang up on the window frame as you are trying to install the stainless trim. Has anyone use this method or is there a better way short of using a good adhesive?

Thanks,
doug

Comments

  • dougson
    dougson Senior Contributor
    The original strips (in stepdowns) were stapled to the lower stainless. I got mine from JC Whitney and restapled them. I aligned the strip with the stainless and pressed 1/2" (deep) staples through the material in the same position of the original puncture holes in the stainless. Usually I had to work the staples through gaps in the metal reinforcement of the belt strip and then through the original holes. Once the staples were bent over there was ample clearance and the belt strip was secure.
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    Dougson, great idea, never though of that. That's why I am a newbie. lol.

    Thanks for your response,
    Doug
  • russmaas
    russmaas Senior Contributor
    FYI..it makes it easier to predrill the holes in the belt line and stainless with a 1/16th bit and use the M50 staples to push thru...
  • Jay_G
    Jay_G Expert Adviser
    I predrilled the holes where the old staples were then used SS safety wire and spun it tight from the back side. Almost looks like a stape and holds just fine.

    Jay
  • Browniepetersen
    Browniepetersen Senior Contributor
    When I attached mine I did the drill and rivet. I used the aluminum rivet and as you pull down the rivet it sucks below the material. It worked well for me. Did this about six years ago and it is holding up great...
  • Walt-LA
    Walt-LA Senior Contributor
    Used a 16th inch bit to open the old holes along with stainless wire twisted on back side, trimmed, pushed flat, and a dab of JB Weld added for good measure. Made sure wire on the front side was well buried. So far so good. Walt-LA
  • J Lombard
    J Lombard Member
    Doug:
    What do you think of Vic's Automotive Window Chaanneling Kit? Do you recommend them?

    J
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    edited February 2011
    J, So far it seems to be fine. The quality is good, the items are labeled, and he includes good instructions. Would recommend the kit.

    Contrary to his instructions I did not go the pop rivets route however, instead using staples. The original staple holes, at least on my 54 Sedan, are 3/8 inches wide and I found some staples at a hardware store that were exactly 3/8 inches wide and 3/8 inches long. I then drilled out the orignal staple holes using a 1/8 inch bit. Using an ice pick, I punched holes in the weatherstrip, pushed the staples through the holes in the stainless trim, then bent them over with a screw driver. Worked perfectly.

    Doug
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    You then should squeeze each side with a pair of vise grips. Set tight into the weather strip and locks the back side against the metal. Mine are in this way and have been used for 12 years and 134,000 miles and no marks on the glass. Walt.
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