got the oil pan cleaned and valves free what now?

hoggyrubber
hoggyrubber Expert Adviser
edited November -1 in HUDSON
i think 6 months or a year ago i asked about starting up a 262 that had not been running in a while. got some real good advice here and have decided to ask for more. i was told to remove oil pan and clean before atempting to start. i did this and to my suprise not much sludge present. i did find 2 very small pieces of what might be a oil ring, but i'm not sure. a little uneasy about that.
i then found out i don't have a 262 after all it's a 308 with a 262 head! i decided to take the side valve covers off to inspect and i'm glad i did. i found #3 and #5 intake valves were stuck open. i used penatrating oil and tried to move them for days with multiple ways just with side acess. no luck, so i finally had had it so i took off the head. i was able to free them and get them to close with just the spring pressure but it sure took a lot of work.
so down to my real questions: i want to clean up the combustion chambers and top of pistons some carbon present but have never done this on a engine i wasn't goin to totally rebuild. can i cover everything else up rotate the engine to close the valves and piston to tdc and use a high speed wire wheel gently and vacum out latter? anything i should do the the bottom end before oil pan goes back on? should i just bite the bullet and remove the pistons now? i noticed a couple the exaust valves have some slight latteral movement what's the max on this? any other advise would be great i'm sure i'm forgetting to ask something. i have to spend a ton on this right now i would like to just get it running, so even the $100 head gasket annoys me i have another twin h 308 i might get into later. thanks, stacy

Comments

  • Geoff
    Geoff Senior Contributor
    Just put each piston on t.d.c. with the valves closed and scrape the carbon off with a slightly blunt chisel or screwdriver. Winde the engine over a few times afterwards to allow you to remove the dust from around the top of the cylinders with a rag. I would get it running and see what it sounds like, although it may pay to inspect the valves seats and faces while you have the head off in case they need lapping in. Good luck.
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    Hudson engines are pretty tough. Remember these cars were everyday drivers and many folks kept them running via do it yourself maintenance. Others like my Dad and later me, bought and drove them because they would take the abuse of hard driving and minimum maintenance.

    I am not advocating that you overlook the obvious but when your wallet is thin and your desire high... breathing life back into your Hornet can be accomplished on the cheap. Take a close look at each of the valves and their seats. Checking for chips in the valves and nicks or cracks in the seats. Shade tree valve jobs can be done with a bit of valve grind compound and a hand spinner. If you have some valves that should be replaced, do not hesitate to use good used valves and lap them into the seat.

    Cleaning up the pistons was already covered. While you have the engine apart give the head a good cleaning too. In a pinch replacing the head with a used head gasket is possible. I know from experience that this can be done... but only if the gasket has not been damaged during the disassembly make sure you properly torque the head after assembly.

    Before replacing the pan... check the sump screen and make sure it and the pickup are clean and that the sump pickup moves freely. Reinstallation of the pan to the engine while in the car will require care to assure the gasket stays in place. In the past I have tack sealed the gasket to the pan then allowed the glue to set up. Before installation capture the pan gasket to the pan in several places round the circumference with rubber bands. The bands will keep the gasket from sliding out of place.

    Good Luck...
  • schillaz
    schillaz Expert Adviser
    edited February 2011
    Once you chip off the rough carbon build up on the piston and head what I did was use one of those little wire brushes that fit on a drill and some carb-choke spray, it really cleaned them up nicely.




    I also picked up some of that royal purple engine assembly oil and drizzled it where I could on the crank. Not sure if it worked but better than nothing.

    It might be wise to check your oil pump gear and if its chewed. (when I did i found out my cam gear was chewed and I had to put in another cam at that time we did a vavle job too).
  • hoggyrubber
    hoggyrubber Expert Adviser
    edited February 2011
    thank you all for your advice. that's the high speed wire brush i was talking about. i have several i use in my air die grinder. i like the royal purple idea too. i will get the oil pan back on soon to keep it clean and will order the head gasket. thanks too all. i will try to get it running and see what it sounds like.
  • Uncle Josh
    Uncle Josh Senior Contributor
    If that head gasket isn't damaged, hang it up and spray both sides with aluminum paint. That'll help seal it. I've re-used several of them.
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    Hello, remember to re-torque the head and manifolds when you shut it down the first time, surprising how much more you can tighten the nuts/bolts. Good luck and while you have things off, chech the valves, if you have time. Bob
  • hoggyrubber
    hoggyrubber Expert Adviser
    the head gasket isn't reusable, it had a section that was rusted/rotted and prob would have blew when i started it up. i am lucky i took it off i guess. i have pleanty of time and space so i will check valves before i get it back together. i have other stuff i have to focus on at the moment- unfortunatly.
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