Fuel Gauge Brass Float

[Deleted User]
[Deleted User]
edited November -1 in HUDSON
OK..So I also purchased a brass float from D.C. Ford.

I found the OEM float arm to be OK after all (soaked in cleaner and light brushing). So I think my OEM Fuel Level Sender will be OK because the OEM float was toast.

My question is what can I safely spray on the replacement brass float to help seal it?

Also, the DC Ford replacement float was a little different in size (not by much). How will this effect my fule level reading? The total volume of the float is very close to that of the OEM. So if figure the thing should work well. But since the OEM was full of holes, I can't compare weight to make any calculations on weight verses distance on the floar arm.

What should my Multi meter reading show on the OEM sender as I test it on the bench?

Comments

  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    I have seen people use cork as a float and seal it with gas tank sealer.
    Roger
  • GrimGreaser
    GrimGreaser Senior Contributor
    I wouldn't think you would need to seal a brand new brass float... And you might be over thinking the Ford float set up. Getting it in the arm so that the bent 'ring' isn't too tight to allow proper expansion with temperature, and that if the float is off-set a bit that it doesn't cause the pivot to bind in its travel are probably the only things to worry about.

    But, maybe those more experienced have different thoughts...

    I fixed my brass float by soldering the pin-holes closed, I had a big one right in the groove of the float, right where the very tip of the arm ring ended. Thats why I bring up making sure the arm isn't too tight around the float.
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    GrimGreaser wrote:
    I wouldn't think you would need to seal a brand new brass float... And you might be over thinking the Ford float set up. ....snipped.......

    But, maybe those more experienced have different thoughts...

    I fixed my brass float by soldering the pin-holes closed, snipped.....
    Maybe I am overthinking it. I just don;t want my grand kids to have to replace it.

    I could not have saved the Swiss Cheese float that was left. Half of the float was gone. I do not have the solder tools or skills.
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    You are going about your project just fine. Look at each small phase seperatly and address it as best you can. Do it right and you won't have to do it again. And before you know it you will take off on a 300 mile drive in your car.
    Roger
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    Do you think a light coat of gas tank sealer on the brass float would add too much weight?

    Trying to figure out the specific gravity of the fuel compared to the volume of the float, length of the arm, etc.....It makes my head hurt.
  • GrimGreaser
    GrimGreaser Senior Contributor
    I would suggest seeing how it floats attached to the arm in a pan of gas. Then you'll know for sure how the weight of the arm and float effect things. The fuel mark on my float showed about half the float submerged, but that was with a couple pin-holes and a bit of gas in it.

    These fuel gauges aren't exactly high precision and accuracy instruments, the critical thing here is resistance. So if you're using the stock sender and it's resistance is good, as long as the float, well, floats you should be well within the senders error.

    And don't think I'm not knocking you for doing the calculations, they are good to do. I just don't think you'll get much more precision from the gauge, unless the floats bouyancy is waaay different than the original.
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