Newbie introduction
Hey guys, I am a newbie to Hudson's and recently bought a 1951 Hudson Commodore 8 cylinder repairable and am just getting oriented to all things Hudson. My other project so far has been a 1966 Mustang coupe which is nearly done (for my 17 year old son) and this car is going to be my drive around fun car (if I can get it functioning!). According to the PO, the engine ran a few years ago then he found a mouse nest in the carburetor and the wiring destroyed by rodents. He has taken the starter and solenoid off, the carburetor apart (currently in a plastic box) and gutted the interior. The seats are rusted spring frames without covers and no hardware. The rest of the car seems to be there. The brightware is rusted and the stainless trim looks fine. One window is broken out but the rest are there. The hood has some rust through sections near the front, I believe that the frame and the basic panels just have surface rust. I have been reading through the forums to get my bearings, joined the HET club and will be needing lots of advice. I have found the online treasure trove of service manuals and am looking them over. My plan of action is to get the carburetor rebuilt (hopefully by someone in the club as I don't want to tackle it, I had trouble getting my 66 Autolite carburetor functioning for my Mustang after tearing it apart), replace the spark plug wires and spark plugs, test the starter and solenoid and put them back in, upgrade the distributor to a pertronix electronic ignition 6V positive ground system (do they have an 8 cylinder setup) and coil, take out the gas tank and have it cleaned and replace it, check fuel lines and brake lines to make sure they are intact, rebuild brake cylinders and replace brake shoes and springs, hopefully find someone locally to turn the drums, put some cheap tires on it and cobble together some seats. I hope to do a more thorough restoration over the next winter if I can get the girl running and driving. Any thoughts you might have are welcome. My grandfather drove Hudsons in the 30s and my Dad would patch together Hudsons from the junkyard in the early 50s. I brought my Dad with when I picked up the car along with my 15 year old son and my Dad was obviously excited. I couldn't afford a running car and I am hoping I can bring this one back from the dead! I look forward to interacting with you all!
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Welcome aboard (the Club and the Forum)! And congratulations on your purchase.
You might want to say where you live, because possibly there's some Hudson activity in the area. There's no substitute for real, live Hudson people giving you advice, as opposed to us "virtual" Hudson people on the internet. The Club has about 40 chapters in the U.S. and chances are there is something going on in your area. Or at least a member or two to advise you.
Do check the condition of your perimeter frame carefully, before you invest a dime in this car. Check in the area around the rear wheel wells. If the frame has turned to "Swiss cheese" you're looking at a good deal of money or time. And that's before you even begin to think about paint, upholstery or drive train work. If the frame's solid then there's no problem because you can scrape away the surface rust and hit it with some POR-15 or other rust eater / preventative. But don't start investing heavily in this car until you find that the "foundation" is good.0 -
I am in the Minneapolis area and I noticed that there is a North Central branch of the HET club here. I plan on putting it up on blocks soon to check the frame (crossing fingers!)0
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Welcome to the HET club Bill. Sounds like you've got a pretty good handle on getting started on this car. A couple of suggestions, get it running first with the stock ignition, no sense spending $100.00 to $150.00 before you know what you've got. If the engine does run good, pull the oil pans down and give them a good cleaning, as per the shop manual. When you get to the brakes, especially in your area, use new, not NOS, brake cyls or kits and flush and clean all the brake lines and put silicone brake fluid in it. As Bill Albright used to say, "Make 'em stop, make 'em run, then make 'em purdy"! Good advice as far as I'm concerned. Good luck.0
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Nice to meet you Bill, Welcome.
I live in central North Dakota and would be glad to help with anything I can.0 -
Bill, if there is sludge in the oil pan, and more than likely there is plenty of it, running it that way will only help ruin the bearings. Before running the engine, I would pull the pan and clean it. That eight is a splasher and the pan needs to be cleaned and fresh oil put in. Even on a pressurized oil engine, I clean the pan first if it has set for a while. Cheap insurance for the bearings. You can't tell by looking at the dipstick, as all the caked in sludge will be filtered to the bottom and when the engine is started and run, the sludge will be picked up - thrown up and moved through the engine bearings and such. The dip stick will look like clean oil.
(just last year I decided to start up a long dormant Studebaker Champion 6, the dipstick looked like new oil. When I pulled the pan a mountain of sludge had to be cleaned out of there of which I did. I put in new oil and got the engine to crank up and run smoothly- not worried about the bearings)0 -
Bill, Your 8 has two oil pans on it. One is an upper and the other is a lower. The upper is a dipper system and the lower is a pump. I would not start the car without dropping both oil pans and cleaning out the sludg. These engines are solid as a rock and can run forever if they get oil to all the right parts. Sucking up sludge into the pump and into the system can plug a line and the first you know you have a burnt valve or something more serious. I am with those who say clean first then get it to stop and then handle the running part and the cleanup...0
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I am lovin' this! Thanks for all the great recommendations! Nice to meet all of you. Any suggestions regarding carb rebuilding? Can I buy new brake cylinders and brake hardware including brake shoes at O'Reillys or NAPA? I will try to post some photos of the car and hopefully the frame later to see what y'all think. Sounds like order of business #1 is oil pan cleaning. Also, how do I go about backflushing the block coolant passageways?0
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Do not forget to put oil in the upper oil pan trays before instaling the oil pans after cleaning. No oil in trays, no oil gets to rod bearings because the connecting rod scoopers have no oil to scoop up to the bearing until the oil pump dilivers oil to the upper trays.
Have a great day.
Lee O'Dell0 -
Like Lee said, make sure up install 2 quarts of oil in the top tray, and make sure the hole in the gaskets at the center of the rear main is opened Get your gaskets from Dale Cooper. Once pan is back on, then install 7 quarts in the bottom pan. I recommend using 10-40 oil. Walt Mordenti0
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Hey Bill welcome to the wonderful world of Hudsons. I live in Lindstrom MN, and would be happy to help in any way I could. I have made many connections through the years with a lot of great people. The best part of owning a Hudson is being in this great club the HET. I have a 1951 Hollywood Hornet and a 1954 Hornet mostly restored. I,d like to meet you sometime. Call if you like. 651-257-9191
Paul0 -
Here is the place that rebuilt my carburetor: http://www.daytonaparts.com/index.html
You can have a fairly decent overhaul done much cheaper, but these people essentially return to you a "new" carburetor, with new components and gaskets and everything painted and / or replated. I think it's somewhere up near $300 for a 2-barrel carb rebuild, nowadays.
I'm very happy with what they gave me. You will want to check around, but if you start running into prices in the $200's for a simple overhaul, you might want to consider paying a bit more and having these folks do a really top-rate job.0 -
Also, send a note to Walt. (note post above) Walt did the carb for my 1936 English Hudson. It has an 8. There are a lot of good folks out there working on Hudsons. Two have been mentioned above for your carb--but, as stated before check around and it is always good to build sources near home...0
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Welcome Bill. Try to make the HET National/International meet this summer. Lots of Hudsonites and their cars. Some even bring more than one car. Make your reservations now. Good luck, thanks for joining, Hudsonly, Bob, Florence, AL0
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DaytonaParts has built several carbs for me and they only do top notch work. The carbs are like new in both function and appearence when finished. They don't just clean them and install kits but go over every detail and re-machine if needed.Jon B wrote:Here is the place that rebuilt my carburetor: http://www.daytonaparts.com/index.html
You can have a fairly decent overhaul done much cheaper, but these people essentially return to you a "new" carburetor, with new components and gaskets and everything painted and / or replated. I think it's somewhere up near $300 for a 2-barrel carb rebuild, nowadays.
I'm very happy with what they gave me. You will want to check around, but if you start running into prices in the $200's for a simple overhaul, you might want to consider paying a bit more and having these folks do a really top-rate job.
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Daytona carb is a great company with a great owner. I have been to his shop in Florida. It is quite the place. The last time I saw the owner was about four years ago at the HET national in Auburn, Indiana. As mentioned earlier, they will rebush, remachine, and put in their redesigned rebuild kit. They are a little pricey, but you get what you pay for. I am sure that there are many competent individuals to help you with your carb. Daytona just has an entire machine shop at their disposal to bring worn tolerances back to factory specifications. I am not sure that anyone else has that type of equipment.0
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Daytona Parts referred me to "Mike's Carb Service" in Dayton, Ohio. I was looking for parts for an old Rochester and that's where they sent me. I've had Mike do 2 carbs for me and they look real good and work very well. Mike is about half the money. Though my opinion is,DP is the best in the business.
Kim0 -
I STRONGLY urge you to replace all of the steel brake lines, as well as the brake hoses. This is a simple job. You can buy the lines in various lengths and make do. Also, the front shoes are peculiar to Hudson, Pontian (49-53, if I recall) and some 40s Oldsmobiles. If you don't get the right shoe it will "fit" but never be any good because the anchor height will be wrong. DAMHIK.0
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Speaking of brakes. I need to replace the whole brake system on my '53. What is the current recomendation on where to get shoes, slave cylinders, master cylinders?
Thanks much,
Bryan0 -
Contact Norm Blackmer in the CIC chapter, southern California, he has all the parts you need, and they are new, and also has all the seals you will need. Contact him at 1-909-984-5544. Keep the business in the club. Walt Mordenti0
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Paul, it would be fun to see a functioning Hudson! I live in the Anoka/Ramsey area so not far from you. You live near Chisago, right? Reminds me of that wonderful book series by Wilhelm Moberg, "The Emigrant Novels".0
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Bill,
I hope you have success getting your Hudson going. My introduction to Hudsons was in 1953 when my father bought a used 1951 Commodore Eight. We had that car a long time and it was so great it stuck in my consciousness and has kept me a Hudson-nut ever since.
These are wonderful cars and I know you'll enjoy yours for a long time to come.
Geoff Blake0 -
I spent over two hours today cleaning out the upper pan on the 37. Sludge was packed in the two valleys with the two small drain holes. I had to use brake cleaner than engine cleaner and keep working it to finally break the sludge enough to get it out.Browniepetersen wrote:Bill, Your 8 has two oil pans on it. One is an upper and the other is a lower. The upper is a dipper system and the lower is a pump. I would not start the car without dropping both oil pans and cleaning out the sludg. These engines are solid as a rock and can run forever if they get oil to all the right parts. Sucking up sludge into the pump and into the system can plug a line and the first you know you have a burnt valve or something more serious. I am with those who say clean first then get it to stop and then handle the running part and the cleanup...0 -
Hi Bill,
You are correct. I live right next to Chisago City. Give me a call and we will chat some. Or give me your number and I will give you a call. I had my Hollywood out yesterday for a drive. You are correct Lindstrom is where the Moberg statue is.Did you find your Hudson in MN?? This Sunday a few of us Hudson nuts are taking a short run down to Rochester MN for a little get together.You are welcome to tag along.You could meet some great Hudson folks.You don't have to be driving a Hudson. Some of us come in a brand X. Call me and I will tell you more about it. Bring your family. Maybe your Dad. He sounds interested in Hudsons.We are having Pot Luck lunch. Bring a dish or not is ok.
Hudsonly Yours, Paul0 -
Bill,
Now that we are old friends it is time to mention that we love photo's here on the Forum. All kinds of old Hudson photo's. So when you get a moment take your camera out and shoot a few so we can drool over your pet project....0 -
Welcome Bill. I am located in Byron MN (by Rochester) and have a 1952 Hudson Hornet. As Paul mentioned, we are having a simple pot luck lunch down here this Sunday, and you are more than welcome to join us.0
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