shifter column

bobbydamit
bobbydamit Expert Adviser
edited November -1 in HUDSON
I have a 51 pacemaker and the shifter knuckle on the column has an allen screw under it to lock it to the shift rod. The screw keeps coming loose and it is not easily tightened while the entire assembly is together. It results in a high lever Position. I have used lock tite and thread stop. but it still comes lose. I got frustraighthed and needed more stability so I tapped and threadded another allen screw in the top of the shift knuckle. Worked fine for a long time but came loose this weekend and the slight pressure used to tighten was to much and the treads pulled. I have never had this problem with any stick I have ever owned. 17 Hudsons with sticks, two and one levers and never got loose there. I now need a new knuckle, chrome or painted and will take any suggestions from the members. Thanks, Bobby and "DOC".:unsure:

Comments

  • Unknown
    Unknown
    Allen Walrath from Amsterdam New York, sells Hudson parts on eBay and I presume direct to others. I purchased NOS top and bottom pieces for the part you seek from Allen. At the time of my purchase he had other NOS bottom pieces.

    123awalrath@nycap.rr.com // drop the 123 for Allen's email address.

    Good Luck
  • Geoff
    Geoff Senior Contributor
    The problem is that the spline is worn out in the fulcrum collar that fits around the shaft. The allen screw is simply to hold it in place, not to transmit the movement. You will need to replace the fulcrum collar most likely, or the whole assembly if the splines are worn on the shaft as well. The collar is made of die-cast, and is not very robust. I tried drilling an extra screw hole but this interfered with the up and down motion of the shaft. there is no easy fix for this I'm afraid.
    Geoff
  • bobbydamit
    bobbydamit Expert Adviser
    i did not know that in all these years. I was afraid it might be the case but never heard of it personally. I am the one who's mother in law has a house in ChristChurch and I often planned on visiting there. I have visited the guy in Wales and have had a 1930essex you helped me with many years ago. If anyone has a weath of knowledge, it is you my friend.

    Thanks again and I will seek a new set of crappy parts and this time be more careful with them. I would love to just super glue the entire thing in place or make the JB weld a huge part of it. But I will fix it properly this time, and report back to teacher.
    All the Best,
    Bobby;)
  • Marconi
    Marconi Senior Contributor
    At the Twin-H-Ranch we've fixed several cars with this problem. First thing is to get a die cast part that is in reasonable condition then clean everything up real good, oil and grease, metal shavings, etc. With that done coat the outside of the shaft and inside the knuckle with J-B Weld and assemble in the car. install set screw and let it sit for 24 hrs. seems to be a rather permanent fix.
  • bobbydamit
    bobbydamit Expert Adviser
    Marconi wrote:
    At the Twin-H-Ranch we've fixed several cars with this problem. First thing is to get a die cast part that is in reasonable condition then clean everything up real good, oil and grease, metal shavings, etc. With that done coat the outside of the shaft and inside the knuckle with J-B Weld and assemble in the car. install set screw and let it sit for 24 hrs. seems to be a rather permanent fix.

    I just knew JB weld would be use somehow. I love it. I have to find a replacement fulcrum first and may use a chrome one even, but the splines on mine are gone and the shaft is a bit work too. I will get a good shaft if I can but your fix is a great idea. The JB weld is not much better that the the pot metal in such a thin coat, but the absence of free movement will assure the two will never part again. Great fix and thank you from the oily bottom of an old Hudson racing mechanics heart, with broken bones and the trophies to proove it. We actually used automatics for racing, more than sticks. But the '52 two lever and a hurst conversion was still very fast.:woohoo:
  • bobbydamit
    bobbydamit Expert Adviser
    Hey Walt, will the older not splined with a set screw at 9 o'clock and one under work on mine? It was made for coulmns with out fatory turns, and I have them, but can alter to fit it if I need to. A guy has a new old stock one and id is only 15 bucks. I have word out for a fulcrum with the bottom set and splines on the forum and will buy if I find one, but just in case, will the new one he as work? thanks. If I rember right I met you at the 100 anniversary. I am the guy that was at the 100 with the blue 2dr Pacemaker with the "DOC" signature on the trunk and the eyes in the windshield. You and I had a great conversation on your filtration system and I have it on now. Maybe another guy? Thanks again for your help. Bobby
  • bobbydamit
    bobbydamit Expert Adviser
    I have decided to braze a one inch square key onto the shifter tube and slot the fulcrum accordingly. This way, I will still have the option of sliding the parts up or down and able to remove the tube if needed in the future. I will keep you'all informed how well it worked, and maybe we can add it to the giant repair tips book.B)
    I will use a high silver content braze wire, [35%] and a white paste flux needed for steel to steel or to brass, etc., when using this medium. If successful, It will be simple to make a fixture for locating excatly where to braze the key onto any tube, and make a cutting tool for easy slotting the fulcrum. I'm Always interested in learning new ways to improve our cars, even at my age.:woohoo:
    Bobby
  • Clutchguy
    Clutchguy Senior Contributor
    Remember, the piece in the middle of the shift tube MUST remain free and travel very easily. This usually is gummed up and causes the shift from gate to gate[movement in shift handle] to not shift proper and causes you to force or be excessively harsh on it,thus causing the falcrum to strip on the shaft.
  • bobbydamit
    bobbydamit Expert Adviser
    Clutch guy wrote:
    Remember, the piece in the middle of the shift tube MUST remain free and travel very easily. This usually is gummed up and causes the shift from gate to gate[movement in shift handle] to not shift proper and causes you to force or be excessively harsh on it,thus causing the falcrum to strip on the shaft.
    Very true and probably the number one cause of the damage done to the splines. I cleaned mine out with a .410 shotgun and a .38 spl revolver brass cleaning brush. These can be found at any hunting or gun store and the rifle rod is necessary to make it all the way from end to end. Mine is smooth now and I will use a thin film of lubriplate or never seez to lube the inner rod. It should move real smooth now;) :side: :side: . But very good point to make, as mine had rust and gunk in it.
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