more clutch woes
hoggyrubber
Expert Adviser
i have seen several posts on here about stuck clutches and clutch problems well here's mine. the clutch has been stuck on this '52 308 since i got it a year or so ago. i got it started on the stand but have not been able to free it. well today i went ahead and took it off. i could here something loose and it has one broken spring. it wasn't stuck to flywheel, but seems to be stuck to pressure plate.
looks pretty wore or "thin on cork" to me. should i try to carefuly drive a putty knife in to seperate them? thee is nothing else holding it together right? should i just get a new clutch disc?
i know there is a rebuilder in the white triangle news. wonder if anyone has a used one for sale and how that would fair? hate to put in a bunch more money till i get here up and going.i like the idea of staying with the wet cork clutch but seems like i read about putting in a dry disc off something else- anyone know what?
looks pretty wore or "thin on cork" to me. should i try to carefuly drive a putty knife in to seperate them? thee is nothing else holding it together right? should i just get a new clutch disc?
i know there is a rebuilder in the white triangle news. wonder if anyone has a used one for sale and how that would fair? hate to put in a bunch more money till i get here up and going.i like the idea of staying with the wet cork clutch but seems like i read about putting in a dry disc off something else- anyone know what?
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Comments
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yUP, YOUR DISC IS JUST WORN OUT. i MBELIEVE THE CORKS MEASURE 1/4" THICK WHEN NEW, so you can see for yourself. Changing to a dry clutch creates mor problems than it solves, so stick with the original equipment. Get a hold of Ron Fellows in the El Paso area. He can supply what you need.0
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Marconi is correct about the dry clutch. There is no reason to re-invent the wheeel here. The wet clutch works just fine when reconditioned properly! Spending the time and money to change this is foolish,and won't work without ALOT of modification-as discussed on this forum many times. The 1/4" disc thickness mentioned is incorrect. 1/4"/.250 disc thickness will create many other concerns.It will not allow the clutch to engage or dis-engage correct. This is a common mistake that so many multi-brand clutch rebuilders make.We only have Hudson clutch parts and pieces. We do have all the Hudson clutch parts required to do it correctly,in stock. Mail me if I can help,thanks CG- Doug Wildrick0
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Doug, what is the correct thickness for the corks? I was always told it was 1/4"! Thanks, Steve.0
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Marconi wrote:Doug, what is the correct thickness for the corks? I was always told it was 1/4"! Thanks, Steve.
3/16's or less on new cork. Depends on the rebound of the cork once compressed in the plate. But too thick and you will have sticking when cold and dragging when hot problems. Best to buy from the guys who have exact spec Hudson parts, or some of us even have OEM discs, if you are interested. We all keep AT LEAST ONE locked in the safe as the HOLY SPARE.0 -
Steve, they call discard/worn out , .160 thick0
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Thanx for the info, Doug!0
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yes, you guys have talked me into it! thank you for all the info. i will def get a new clutch disc. i cleaned up the flywheel and the pressure plate today from all the stuck cork. good advice about checking the pressure plate too.0
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Remember,since Hudson used a wet clutch, the wear factor was greatly reduced, especially when serviced and adjusted properly. A narrow margin of thickness between new and discard is nothing to be alarmed about Also because it was different than basically all the other marques,and required a fluid change-they were very neglected,and considered a Pain in the A.. Dry clutches have to be so much thicker because they wear much more. Just a little more info, CG0
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clutch guy, tried to send you a private message, hope i did it right. never started one before.0
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