HELP ! i have no spark on my 39 straight 8
im running out of ideeas.
39 hudson straight 8 bone stock 6v pos grnd.
drove on freeway all was fine then sudden loss of el power.
lights work normal.
starter works normal via pushbutton when ignition key turned on.
but no more spark.
replaced points,condenser,coil,rotor. no luck
measures 6v coil in coil out and at distributor.
was supposed to have car ready for period photoshoot tuesday...guess thats going down the drain
any ideeas and recomendations ? if your close to torrance and think you can fix it for reasonable amount be my guest...im out of ideeas.
39 hudson country club 8 victoria coupe
39 hudson straight 8 bone stock 6v pos grnd.
drove on freeway all was fine then sudden loss of el power.
lights work normal.
starter works normal via pushbutton when ignition key turned on.
but no more spark.
replaced points,condenser,coil,rotor. no luck
measures 6v coil in coil out and at distributor.
was supposed to have car ready for period photoshoot tuesday...guess thats going down the drain

any ideeas and recomendations ? if your close to torrance and think you can fix it for reasonable amount be my guest...im out of ideeas.
39 hudson country club 8 victoria coupe
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Comments
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Have you inspected the distributor to determine that the shaft is turning properly? (In other words make sure the timing gear hasn't sheared off, or anything.) Also, the wire that enters through the side of the distributor isn't grounding on the distributor wall? (This sometimes happens.)
Wire from coil to center of dist. cap is secure at both ends? Points are gapped correctly?
Did you get no warning over the past few weeks? No sudden loss of power?
The suddenness of it all, makes me think that the solution could be sudden as well.0 -
thanks for some fast ideeas.
car was running perfectly until freeway breakdown.
i think shaft is ok im alone so its a bit tricky but when i use starter the rotor always is in a different location so i gues its ok.
also pin inside distributer cap is good and freely moving.
going to work now checking wire grounding tonight.
wire to coil i jusyt installed today and is fine.
points i replaced and should be correct.
car lost sudden power on the freeway and i had to tow it home.0 -
One quick test is a light bulb across the coil. This tests the opening and closing of the points and all voltages at the coil. Also a spark plug connected to the coil output and laying on the engine metal should also show spark across its contacts. Moving the sparkplug to any actual plug wire should also show a spark. This tests all High Voltage thus eliminating coil, rotor and cap. So if the above checks out it ain't spark you're missing. Try a small cap full of gas down the throat.0
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With your test light connected from the 6 volt terminal on the distributor to ground and the ignition switch turned on, while operating the starter the test light should flash on and off. If it stays on the points aren't making contact and need to be cleaned and regapped, if the light stays off you've got a short or the points aren't opening. If the light stays on and you've got some NOS points they've prpbably got an oxide film on them which will not pass any current. Run a piece of doubled up sandpaper thru them and regap. If everything checks out here check the fuel system, fuel pump failed, fuel line plugged up, fuel pickup tube in tank plugged or the pickup tube has a hole in it above the present fuel level in the tank. Good luck.0
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Do this test. Take distributor cap off and have some one watch the rotor while you hit starter to see if rotor is spinning. With all the things you have done so far i have this to say. The early Hudson engines used fiber timing gears and they were a weak spot in the engine. In 1942 aluminum gears were used, problem solved. Walt0
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thanks il have to organize some help tomorow...will test as much as i can tonight.
sparkplug on block was the first thing i did ,no spark.
fuelpump i just replaced and i have fuel in carb when using starter and even added a bit in carb but hey il try again.
sparkplug on wire from coil is tricky as does old coils have a screw in out on bottom so i cant just use a normal wire from any cylinder.
i hope the distributor is alive...try finding one for a hudson8
thanks for all the inputs so far i try all i can tonight.0 -
"replaced points,condenser,coil,rotor. no luck"
Did you replace the distributor cap?
Had the same problem with my 50 Studebaker. Had voltage to the distributor but no spark to the plugs. It turned out to be the cap.
John0 -
To expand a little more on what John said. I had a car with no spark, and it was the spring connection on the rotor to the plunger inside the center of the cap. The spring had broken off. Might be worth a check. Good luck. Let us know what you find.
Gene.onerare39 wrote:"replaced points,condenser,coil,rotor. no luck"
Did you replace the distributor cap?
Had the same problem with my 50 Studebaker. Had voltage to the distributor but no spark to the plugs. It turned out to be the cap.
John0 -
I had a bad set of points and when I put the old points back in she's still running. I realize yours failed on the road, but just something else to check.
Fred0 -
THANKS ALL !
ok did check that there was no short between coil and points. ok
had an new dist.cap around even i checked springloaded center of old one as ok.
did check with test light...ignition on light on....starting...light steady on...best test...why didnt i think of that
traded some swiss chocolate to a local car shop for the use of a contact burnisher.
ignition on light on....starting light flickers...but doesent start...oh wait maybe i should re-install that rotor laying on the bench
car runs again nice and smooth right on first start up !
thanks all....certainly learned to clean points before installing....and loking for cars with the distributer not hidden down below...all the work was done with a a mirror...kind of tricky...plus i have a red bar over my chest now for laying over the side for days
thanks again all very helpfull in solving this. Marco0 -
Nex time you have to 'play' with the dist, take it off the engine and mount it in a vice! It's a whole bunch easier. Just mark a line on the dist body and the block with chalk, mark where the rotor is pointing, disconnect and pull out. Outside of the cap it's one wire and one bolt!0
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Egads, you didn't remove the distributor to work on it? You deserve a medal for working in that cramped position!
Like Marconi said, you just mark the position of the rotor on the distributor body with chalk. And (I do this) chalk or "white out" around the dist. mounting bolt where it passes through the advance / retard plate, so that when you re-mount the distributor you'll have the precise timing that you had before.0 -
nope always in there...i thought about pulling it a few times...but i also thought its gona be a fast and easy one....plus pulling it...hmmm if ur not doing this regular...i wonder what else could go wrong
ouch..my chest
worst part....car is for sale now becuase my company sends me to bangkok...at least i make my period clothing photoshot tomorow for a local mag....thanks again0 -
Be sure to tell us what the problem was when you find it.0
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well i replaced points and the little part that runs on cam was broken off on the old one....but then i didnt clean new points and that was new problem then i asume..
runs fine now going to photoshoot right now0
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