49 Commodore

[Deleted User]
[Deleted User]
edited November -1 in HUDSON
I'm looking at a pretty nice restorable 49 Commodore Coupe that needs a few things but paint and upholstery are the biggest two. The owner had the head done by Bill Albright but it hasn't been retorqued since Bill passed away. Before I drive it home I will want to torque the head so as not to blow the head gasket. Can someone post the correct torque and pattern please. I like this car, it looks to be rust free and it runs sweet.



Harry

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  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    Harry Hill wrote:
    I'm looking at a pretty nice restorable 49 Commodore Coupe that needs a few things but paint and upholstery are the biggest two. The owner had the head done by Bill Albright but it hasn't been retorqued since Bill passed away. Before I drive it home I will want to torque the head so as not to blow the head gasket. Can someone post the correct torque and pattern please. I like this car, it looks to be rust free and it runs sweet.



    Harry
    If you have my tech tip book, volume one, go to page 46 and you will have your answer. This is Walt's way and my headgasket is 12 years old and 132,000 miles and still no signs of wear. Walt.
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    Walt, I keep meaning to order your books, send me the order information and I'll get a check off to you
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    Here is the info you need from Hudson tech note.



    head-gasket.jpg
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    Thank you, if I buy the car I will do that before I drive the car home.



    Harry
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    If you have 7/16 bolts or studs, do not torque over 65 foot pounds, and do it in 4 steps. 1/2 inch bolts or studs are the ones that torque. 85 to 95 ft lbs. Walt.
  • bobbydamit
    bobbydamit Expert Adviser
    51hornetA wrote:
    Here is the info you need from Hudson tech note.



    head-gasket.jpg

    I have used the older/different torque process, successfully, on my race and daily use Hudsons and on both alum. and cast heads. It is from the center/center out. I cannot use [art pad] correctly, but I will try later tonight and post. Goes like this:
    Center is one, then outside right is two and outside left is three, then moving forward or backward, and repeating the process center/left/right, then alternate forward and bacdward too. This should keep from cold flowing the synthetic material of todays gaskets, and avoid stressing it, as one side is tight and the other is not.:whistle:
    The book one you have posted is in some motor mate manuals, but not all, and mine is in newer gasket manufactures instructions. Both are good, but if you forget the posted one, mine is easier to remember as it is a simple progressive pattern of clamping force. Last, just is a reminder on new gaskets, once you reach the 65 lbs., run engine at idle for 20-30 minutes, let it cool, and retorque again. I suggest a final one after the first 100 miles also, especially if new bolts are used. Good luck.
  • MikeWA
    MikeWA Senior Contributor
    edited July 2011
    What if you buy a Hudson, runs fine, no apparent head problems- but you have no idea of present torque of the head bolts, or its history. Should you check it cold, or hot? Or just leave it alone, under the "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" rule?

    (Tinkerer's Corollary to the above rule: "If it ain't broke, fix it until it is.")
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    What else does it need? I have a 49 Commodore that I will be parting out... body and chassis are severely rusted but most trim parts are there in fair to good driver condition. All pieces would be good foundation for rechroming, polishing etc. Interior and exterior trim is there, dash is complete with radio etc. Hard to find door chrome, interior lights, garnish moldings, window trim, antenae and misc. doodads are available.


    Everything will be sold at reasonable prices plus shipping.

    I will begin removing parts, photograhing and boxing as time permits. If anyone needs something now please let me know and I will see if I have it.

    Drive train has been spoken for by BobdrivesaHudson...

    Craig


    email: HETrelemid57@knology.net (drop the "HET" before emailing)
    phone: Two Five Six - four two five-eight seven eight five
  • bobbydamit
    bobbydamit Expert Adviser
    edited July 2011
    If it aint broke in a Hudson, and you don't want to modify the car in any way, don't mess with it. trying to clean up, or tighten old parts, can be a mistake, especially if it breaks off, like a head bolt. Now if it had a blown gasket or you wanted to change the head for any reason, then you take the chance and use all precautions needed to avoid making the problem worse while trying to fix it. With new cars, messing with parts is not as chancy, but with something 60+ years old, it can be a nightmare.
    When I was in my 20's, I tried to change out a back window, that had some slight fogging in the corner. It was fine the way it was, but I had a spare back window. So, I began to change it out. The rest of the story was a nightmare.:blush: Trim breaking, headliner tearing, gasket rotten and crumbled, and finally cracking the new window, and then, I had to put the old one back in!:woohoo: Now in my 60's I still remember the lesson it taught me, [don't mess with it, if it aint broke].:whistle:
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