Removing drag link ?
Comments
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Snap-On, Mac, Matco and maybe Sear make a tool that fit your ratchet. There is a screw driver type blade on the other end that fits the slot on the drag link perfectly. Makes removal an easy job.
Or you can make one out of an old worn out socket by welding a piece of metal onto it and grind it to fit the slot in the drag link.
Have you already tried a large square shank screwdriver and adjustable wrench?
Hudsonly, Lee O'Dell0 -
i think they are even listed as a drag link socket.0
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I should have figured it'd be that easy. I tried the largest flatblades that I have, including the a socket type with no luck.
Thanks!
Matt0 -
Loosen the old grease up with some penetrating oil also0
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This may be a realy silly question but did you take out the cotter pin first?
That could be why it won't move,
Roger0 -
I had forgotten how rusty things can get in Tn., especially if the suspension had been steam cleaned or exposed to salted roadways. We lived there for eight years and our daily driver was a rust bucket in four years. I hated to do wheel alignments on cars that had been steam cleaned, because the caustic soap caused the suspension threads to rust very quickly making it very difficult to turn any adjustments without alot of penetrating oil and the use of a air hammer to jar rusty adjusters.
Use lots of pentrating oil and patience.
Good luck. Lee O'Dell0 -
Cotter pins were out, I just couldnt turn the screw with the biggest screwdriver I had.
I ended up with a draglink socket from Napa - The counter monkeys at Sears and Oreilleys argued that such a thing didn't exist. After I found them in the catalog, there was no stock.
I was able to get it apart, cleaned up and re-assembled.
Thanks guys0
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