Starter Current
What amperage should I read on a 262 on 6 volts? This car has all the clean correct grounding,#1 cables, rebuilt starter.. Loose well worn 262.. When engine is cold 300 Amps warm fluctuates to 400 amps.Battery checks out with a hydrometer.Spins fast when cold slow when hot. Timing is spot on,just at the pre-ignition point when warm under load..Total voltage drop from battery to starter post when hot cranking .23 volts..Stumped..for now...:S
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Comments
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I think you need to load test the battery.
If your careful ,you can watch the cells to see if they bubble
when somebody cranks over the vehicle.
Also try grounding the coil wire when it acts up,
this will elimanate an ignition problem.
Standard compression ? Heavy battery cables ?
Just a few ideas
Roy0 -
Dave, I am assuming you are referring to current draw when cranking the starter. A few years ago I put a load tester on my 308 and optima battery. Cold cranking start draw was 225 - 250amps. Of course oil was 10w 30 and the engine had @ 7000 miles so it was not tight. This is why I do not recommmend Those "little green wheels" as a kill switch. They are rated below 250 amp and act as a current bottleneck. My 1950 Caddy pulls 325amps, so your not that far off. I would replace the #1 cables with 00 for less resistance.0
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RonS wrote:Dave, I am assuming you are referring to current draw when cranking the starter. A few years ago I put a load tester on my 308 and optima battery. Cold cranking start draw was 225 - 250amps. Of course oil was 10w 30 and the engine had @ 7000 miles so it was not tight. This is why I do not recommmend Those "little green wheels" as a kill switch. They are rated below 250 amp and act as a current bottleneck. My 1950 Caddy pulls 325amps, so your not that far off. I would replace the #1 cables with 00 for less resistance.0
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Well, contrary to our love for Hudsons ( or any car for that matter), the goal of the Hudson Motor Car Company was to make a profit. Every little bit of cost control helps. Use the minimum deemed necessary to sufficently operate the vehicle as so to maximize profit and remain competitive. Alas, the reason for a lighter cable.0
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I'm afraid I have to differ with Ron. Of course Hudson was in business to make a profit, but they also put a premium on quality materials and all aspects of performance. A club acquaintance years ago told me he had worked at a steel plant in Ohio where Hudson bought their raw sheet steel. Contrary to the other auto manufacturers, he said, Hudson always insisted on the highest quality stuff they produced, never anything less. I'm sure the battery cables Hudson used were appropriate according to the standards at the time (or better).0
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Rick,
I think Dave Kostansek has offered such cables for years.0 -
The cable is not cheap. I just bought 100' for $277.00 on Ebay. That is as cheap as it gets. I have another use for the stuff, but if any is left over, I'll probably have some Hudson cables made up.:ohmy:0
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Y ad Z, as well as Rhode Island Wiring, will make them up.0
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I got a set for my Jimmy from here: http://custombatterycables.com/. Very impressed with them, going on about six years now.0
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