steering wheel removal
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I have a 52 Hornet and am replacing the horn ring. Do I use the modern removal tool that bolts into the steering wheel and use pressure on the center to remove, or does this still use the old method? I can't find any reference to this in any manual or old posts. Thanks. 
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Use the new style one. Bracket with 2 bolts that bolt into the steering heel hub and the center bolt that goes against the shaft.. You must remove the horn wire first. Walt0
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Not knowing how long the wheel has been on the car, it could be a bear. I removed the wheel from my '54 only after first distorting the puller, MAP gas, and finally a cutting wheel on a grinder and ruining the wheel. It did not want to come off!0
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To remove the wheel first remove the horn button and all associated horn parts. If at all possible get a nut the same size as the nut you have on the steering wheel shaft. Take that nut and grind one flat of the nut down by about 1/16" - 1/8" Replace this nut on the steering shaft having the newly ground side opposite one of the threaded holes on the steering wheel hub . Take a standard steering wheel puller and attach to the wheel. Begin pulling and it should come with some effort. The reason for the ground down nut is because the two threaded holes are not quite able to span the steering wheel nut without one the puller bolts not getting a square straight shot at the threaded hole. It just works that way. Why Hudson did that???? who knows. They just did. Good luck.eddynghdsn16 wrote:I have a 52 Hornet and am replacing the horn ring. Do I use the modern removal tool that bolts into the steering wheel and use pressure on the center to remove, or does this still use the old method? I can't find any reference to this in any manual or old posts. Thanks.0 -
I have avoided the overdue stress on the puller and wheel by using the "Impact" effect. Install the puller as described and put as much stress on it as you dare. Then take a hammer and firmly "Tap" the end of the threaded puller shaft. As if to drive the steering shaft down and out of the wheel. Generaly it just takes one or to taps and everything goes flying so watch out.
When they are that tight they realy "Pop" off,
Roger0 -
Yes they do! be sure and leave a nut on the shaft
to stop the weel.
Roy0 -
I purchased both a nice replacement Hudson three spoke steering wheel for my Pacemaker Deluxe AND then a little later a vintage 1950 Snap-On steering wheel puller made for cars from that era both on eBay. The pullers seem to come up fairly often on eBay and you can buy them for around $75.00. The Snap-On puller did the trick, but as told by others, it may come off quite suddenly when it lets go and with a "bang!" much like mine did.0
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Yes as stated you want to keep a nut an the shaft loosely. But as much for protecting the shaft as retaining the wheel. The flying parts are usualy the puller.
I use a Hudson tool that reach's around the back and pulls the wheel . So it is not realy ttatched to anything if it all commes loose at once,
But its a big heavy cast steel puller you cant destroy,
Roger0 -
I just pulled the steering wheel off my '51 Hornet as part of my conversion from Hydramatic to 3-speed manual / OD (more about that later).
It's true, a standard steering wheel puller generally is spaced too wide to mate up with the "puller" threaded bosses in the steering wheel.
I just made my own puller.... very simple... used a short piece of 1" wide 3/8" steel bar stock... drilled two holes to match the width of the holes in the steering wheel, then drilled a center hole, and welded a Grade 8 nut on. Finally, used a Grade 8 bolt through the center boss to pull the wheel... came right off with no complaints.
However, apparently some of the Hudson steering wheels do NOT have threaded bosses in the base for pulling. That's where you have to find one of those fancy pullers that cradles the outside of the wheel from the back.0 -
Quite right Doc. In fact the first threaded holes don't appear until about mid 1950. Some cars from the early 1950 lineup look like the wheels should come off with a conventional puller but when you look for the threaded holes... there aren't any. Time for the 'C' clamp puller.DocHornet wrote:I just pulled the steering wheel off my '51 Hornet as part of my conversion from Hydramatic to 3-speed manual / OD (more about that later).
It's true, a standard steering wheel puller generally is spaced too wide to mate up with the "puller" threaded bosses in the steering wheel.
I just made my own puller.... very simple... used a short piece of 1" wide 3/8" steel bar stock... drilled two holes to match the width of the holes in the steering wheel, then drilled a center hole, and welded a Grade 8 nut on. Finally, used a Grade 8 bolt through the center boss to pull the wheel... came right off with no complaints.
However, apparently some of the Hudson steering wheels do NOT have threaded bosses in the base for pulling. That's where you have to find one of those fancy pullers that cradles the outside of the wheel from the back.0 -
SO on my 49-i should be ready for a fight? great..well i guess i'm lucky it falling apart..LOL
thanks for all info guys.0 -
Well you could always warm it a bit it by using a 'hot' wrench. If the plastic is gone anyway what the heck.:)0
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Thanks, I bought a remover from Harbor Freight and had to file the puller so that the bolts would bolt into the wheel. First I used penetrating oil a few weeks ago then tighented the puller and it came off in about an hour, just a few taps on the center bolt. Now when I replace the steering wheel I will use anti seize, but hopefully this is the only time the wheel will be removed.0
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You should never hammer on the head of any puller. Steering wheel, you can drive the shaft into the worm gear, rear axle, you can drive the axle into the center spider gear block, and if it breaks you have trouble. Always just use a wrench on steering wheel and just keep hitting the wishbone on the drum puller. Walt.0
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I agree with Walt. Patience is what is needed here. Once to get the wheel under tension with a modern puller as previously described, spray it again with penetrating oil and walk away. Come back to it a day late- it may have popped. If not, turn the puller bolts again, spray again, and wait again. Eventually it will give, without heat or hammer.0
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