Suspension rebuild kit for 52' hornet ?
Comments
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There are parts out there NOS and repo stuff. The Center Streer assembly is the only thing you will probably find worn . Any up and down movement here translates to lots of lost motion left to right. I think 21century Hudson has them (Randy Maas),
Roger0 -
Thank you for the info .0
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21stcenturyhudson.net..:S it says forbidden!0
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http://21stcenturyhudson.net/
or go into hetclub.org bring up the het club tab and key on resourses, which brings up a lot more parts sellers0 -
I went to his web site and same thing happened. worked last time I as ther about two weeks ago. Anyway he is Russmaas on this forum Actualy thats his son but they are each quite knowlageable in Hudson resto.so you can send him a message here. They supply a lot or parts of thier own manufacture. Hope this helps,
Roger0 -
Though a bit pricier than our "in-club" resources, Kanter has all the front suspension parts except maybe the center-point steering pin and bushing.0
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You might try contacting John Fromm on this forum or emailing him at HETjfromm@wyble.org. Drop the HET. He recently bought a lot of this stuff, (new old replacement stock)
Jim Spencer
WNY/Ontario Chapter0 -
Get on the web and punch in. Kanter auto parts. Or rare parts in CA. And you will find all you need. Walt0
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Steele Rubber Products sells a few pieces, concerning rubber. Rubber rear leaf spring bushings, center driveshaft mount rubber mounts (req. 2). Front suspension dust boots can be made simply by cutting rubber tubing in your shop/garage.
Dale Cooper also sells a # of suspension pieces, including center driveshaft mounts.
Russ and Randy Maas (mentioned before) also sells new rear leaf springs in 7 or 8 leaves, along with other assorted parts.
Kingpins are the toughest to find. Occasionally, you'll see an NOS set on E-Bay, where I found my last set.
Shocks are still a common item at your local NAPA store. Do a search here on the forum, part #'s have been posted many times in the past.0 -
OK Now what do you guys think about 12 volt conversion in a 52 Hornet worth the money or is 6 volt just fine ?? another question a 308 engine with about 25,000 miles but has sat for a good 20 years do you think a rering / overhaul is in order ??0
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rowdymopar-
That's a completely subjective question, and a matter of personal preference. Personally, mine are converted. The purpose of which was to be able to utilize AC, or any other 12V-specific items (like power points).
6V systems work fine, however, clean connections are the key. My sedan had all the original wiring in '04 and most of the cloth covers were tattered, or flat-out missing. Looked like a fire waiting to happen. If your wiring is shabby, consider at least re-wiring, or re-wire any questionable bare wires. If cost is a factor, remaining on 6V is the less expensive option.
12V, on the other hand, has it's benefits, like utilizing 12V Halogens for headlights, having bright interior lights, brighter (and safer) running and brake lights. The more expensive option, by far, as all bulbs, wiring, generator/alternator options, a few relays, and switches have to be changed/altered.
6V is more finicky than 12V. 12V is more expensive on the initial change-over, but requires very little maintenance thereafter.0 -
Hi Rowdy, I picked up a 308 that sat for about 30 years with about the same milage. I lifted the nose and filled the crankcase with oil to soak up the rear main seal, which is rope. No leakage there now even after 4000 miles of driving. I had problems with sticky and burned valves and did a valve job. I found rust inside the valve covers when removed. With the head off I found a "golden glow' to the cyl walls signifying that there had been rust present there. I've placed many strong magnets on the outside of the oil pan to help capture any stray particles, removing and replacing at oil change intervals. You will have to judge what to do by the current condition of your motor.
I also converted to 12 Volts and changing the dash lamps was a (&*&%^*( But worth every cuss and nickle the 1'st time I was out at night and the halogens lit up the road. I also converted to electric wipers and love to be able to see when caught in the rain.
Bruce0 -
RL Chilton wrote:rowdymopar-
12V, on the other hand, has it's benefits, like utilizing 12V Halogens for headlights, having bright interior lights, brighter (and safer) running and brake lights. The more expensive option, by far, as all bulbs, wiring, generator/alternator options, a few relays, and switches have to be changed/altered.
6V is more finicky than 12V. 12V is more expensive on the initial change-over, but requires very little maintenance thereafter.
6 volt halogens are available & make a magic difference.0 -
I bave also seen 6-volt led stop/tail lights .And you can get 6 to 12 volt power inverters to run modern sterios. I usualy put one on my cigar lighter so I can plug in my cell phone. There are 6-volt one wire altenators now available. And if you realy try you can find an original 6-volt A/C unit ,I took one to Oklaholma city last summer. By now its in the trunk of a 54 Hornet,
Roger0 -
Tallent R wrote:I bave also seen 6-volt led stop/tail lights .And you can get 6 to 12 volt power inverters to run modern sterios. I usualy put one on my cigar lighter so I can plug in my cell phone. There are 6-volt one wire altenators now available. And if you realy try you can find an original 6-volt A/C unit ,I took one to Oklaholma city last summer. By now its in the trunk of a 54 Hornet,
Roger
Can you recommend a source for 6-volt led stop/tail lights?
thanks0 -
One source is highspeedmotors.com however all you need to do is make a "Google " search . Search for 6-volt led tail light replacement . And you will find lots of info,same with the 6-volt to 12-volt power inverters.
Roger0 -
brumac wrote:Hi Rowdy, I picked up a 308 that sat for about 30 years with about the same milage. I lifted the nose and filled the crankcase with oil to soak up the rear main seal, which is rope. No leakage there now even after 4000 miles of driving. I had problems with sticky and burned valves and did a valve job. I found rust inside the valve covers when removed. With the head off I found a "golden glow' to the cyl walls signifying that there had been rust present there. I've placed many strong magnets on the outside of the oil pan to help capture any stray particles, removing and replacing at oil change intervals. You will have to judge what to do by the current condition of your motor.
I also converted to 12 Volts and changing the dash lamps was a (&*&%^*( But worth every cuss and nickle the 1'st time I was out at night and the halogens lit up the road. I also converted to electric wipers and love to be able to see when caught in the rain.
Bruce
Hi Bruce
I like your tip on soaking the rear main seal. First time I've heard of doing that. How long did you let it soak? I might give that a try on a couple 308 engines setting in the garage.
Happy new year.
Lee O'Dell0 -
Hi Lee,
I think it was about 2 weeks but the longer the better. The engine had a good 53 Hydro attached and I put it in as an assy in place of the BW trans that came with the 54. Had to wait for a cross member and other parts from Al Safferin to arrive. When the 54 engine goes back together I plan on using Dale Coopers neoprene seal, which I've heard nothing but good about.
I'd be interested to know how well it works for you.
Bruce0 -
I'm just a little leary of running an engine that has sat for that long & again I worry about the trans sitting that long I learned wene I restored the GTX everything I did'nt do I ended up haveing to go back & replace it. i just whant to go through it once & be done ( for the most part ) done with it . I agree though that internally the engine should be fine I also like the idea of soaking the rear main seal, qurios about the Transmision it is an old GM transmission correct Something I should or could do to the transmission before throwing it back into Service & rear axel as well ,. I also agree that the 12 volt conversion is a nice upgrade0
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I think he trying to keep this one stock . my Dad has 2 Hudson Hornets 1 is 51 & other is 52 , the one I'm starting to work on is 51 4 dr 20-25,000 oring miles has a aftermarket seat covers on it that look to be installed wene the car was new hopeing original seats are perfect or near perfect , has been repainted in the 80's a two tone Green
& about 90% f chrome has been rechromed , The other 52 hornet is in good condition all original unrestored he drove it in the late 80's needs more work that the 51' , he also Owns a 1936 Terraplne Truck just recently restored . witch a restoration nightmare 3 years & more $$ than i care to mention I had to finish the restoration & put a giant jig saw puzzle back together, fix about 10 runs from the paint & saned 7 buffed my arms off the soo called professional did an ametuer job anyway back together it now literally draws a crowd werever it goes 7 wins trophys at every show it is in . sorry I will add some pictures ASAP0 -
brumac wrote:Hi Rowdy, I picked up a 308 that sat for about 30 years with about the same milage. I lifted the nose and filled the crankcase with oil to soak up the rear main seal, which is rope. No leakage there now even after 4000 miles of driving. I had problems with sticky and burned valves and did a valve job. I found rust inside the valve covers when removed. With the head off I found a "golden glow' to the cyl walls signifying that there had been rust present there. I've placed many strong magnets on the outside of the oil pan to help capture any stray particles, removing and replacing at oil change intervals. You will have to judge what to do by the current condition of your motor.
I also converted to 12 Volts and changing the dash lamps was a (&*&%^*( But worth every cuss and nickle the 1'st time I was out at night and the halogens lit up the road. I also converted to electric wipers and love to be able to see when caught in the rain.
Bruce
what did you use for that swap??0
This discussion has been closed.
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