Carburetor rebuild help

51Hudson
51Hudson Senior Contributor
edited January 2012 in HUDSON
Hi everyone, I have a few more questions that hopefully someone can point me in the right direction. First off the carb ran ok last year besides the auto choke would give me problems but since I bought a rebuild kit and the it had no fuel filter on it, I figure I would rebuild it and try to fix the auto choke. I took everything apart and soaked it in carb cleaner. The bottom of the bull was filled with junk. I put everything back together with the replacement parts according to the manual. I put a fuel filter in line at this point also. I went to start it up and surprisingly it started up. But here comes the problem. It seems at idle its getting way to much fuel. At idle, my uncle told me you should see no fuel dumping down the barrels but mine is dumping a lot. No matter what I do with the adjusting screws, it doesn't change how much it dumps. I retook apart the carb and re cleaned and rechecked everything but I still have the same problem. To show how much it has used, I have used a half of tank of gas with maybe 25 minutes of messing with it. It runs great if you rev it, but if you let it idle for a minute, it will bog down if you rev it until it clears some of the gas. Does anyone know whats going on? If it helps, the number on the carb 776S. Thanks in advance.

Comments

  • Marconi
    Marconi Senior Contributor
    Try lowering your float level 1/8 to 3/16"
  • 51Hudson
    51Hudson Senior Contributor
    Marconi wrote:
    Try lowering your float level 1/8 to 3/16"

    Thanks for your response. When I first took it apart the float was set to around 5/16. When I rebuilt it I set it to the book which says 3/16. My uncle told me to set it back to how it was to see if it would fix it. Well when I had it apart the second time, I reset it back to what it was and unfortunately it didn't fix it.
  • Uncle Josh
    Uncle Josh Senior Contributor
    Check the wire clip on the end of the needle valve. On some of the kits this clip bottoms out on the brass seat and prevents the valve from seating, and that'll do it. Remove it if you have to. You don't really need it.
  • 51Hudson
    51Hudson Senior Contributor
    Uncle Josh wrote:
    Check the wire clip on the end of the needle valve. On some of the kits this clip bottoms out on the brass seat and prevents the valve from seating, and that'll do it. Remove it if you have to. You don't really need it.

    Thanks, tomorrow I will have to take it apart again to see if that clip is bottoming out. If needed, I will take it out.
  • Marconi
    Marconi Senior Contributor
    Just thinking, oh-oh!, if you check the float level with the air horn inverted then raise the float level, that will shut the fuel off sooner.
  • 51Hudson
    51Hudson Senior Contributor
    Marconi wrote:
    Just thinking, oh-oh!, if you check the float level with the air horn inverted then raise the float level, that will shut the fuel off sooner.

    Thanks. Yes I checked the float level with the air horn pointing down. When I reset it, I bent the float arm up so it would actually lower the level.
  • EssexAdv
    EssexAdv Expert Adviser, Member
    Just thinking of simple answers. After you cleaned the carb in carb cleaner..did you clear all the passages with air or a wire or something. IF it isn't getting enough air in mix prior to the idle jet, then you might be using the problem. Adding air to the idle jet mixture is what the idle screws do.


    Lew
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    You need Walt's help. Everything in a carb has to be set with special tools made by Carter for their carbs. There is no guess work here, tell him Lee. Walt.
  • 51Hudson
    51Hudson Senior Contributor
    EssexAdv wrote:
    Just thinking of simple answers. After you cleaned the carb in carb cleaner..did you clear all the passages with air or a wire or something. IF it isn't getting enough air in mix prior to the idle jet, then you might be using the problem. Adding air to the idle jet mixture is what the idle screws do.


    Lew

    Thanks for your help. Yes after both times of cleaning the carb in carb cleaner, I used compressed air to blow out all the holes and other areas on the carb. Yes for some reason it is not letting air mix in with the screws. No matter if the screws are turned all the way in or out, it does not change anything.
  • 51Hudson
    51Hudson Senior Contributor
    edited January 2012
    walts garage-53 wrote:
    You need Walt's help. Everything in a carb has to be set with special tools made by Carter for their carbs. There is no guess work here, tell him Lee. Walt.

    Thanks, so it sounds like I need your help on this. Do you rebuild these? I want to get it running right along with getting that lovely auto choke to work right. This past summer I had to get the vise grips out to hold the choke open after a drive or if I let it sit too long and cranked it for a while. I would open the choke up and she would fire right up.
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    E-mail me at xxxwaltmordenti@aol.com and we can talk. Drop the 3 x's. Or call 415-939-1202, CA time and we can talk. Walt.
  • 51Hudson
    51Hudson Senior Contributor
    Uncle Josh wrote:
    Check the wire clip on the end of the needle valve. On some of the kits this clip bottoms out on the brass seat and prevents the valve from seating, and that'll do it. Remove it if you have to. You don't really need it.

    OK I retook the carb apart today to see if the clip was hitting. Well it wasn't but I did notice there was a small difference between the new and old brass seat. The old seat had a little ID chamfer where the needle seats and the new one didn't have the chamfer. So I don't know if that makes any difference but I put the old needle and seat back in and reassembled the carb. I did not get a chance to start it to see if it made a difference. Hopefully tomorrow I will get time and see if it fixes it. I will report back on my results.
  • 51Hudson
    51Hudson Senior Contributor
    51Hudson wrote:
    Uncle Josh wrote:
    Check the wire clip on the end of the needle valve. On some of the kits this clip bottoms out on the brass seat and prevents the valve from seating, and that'll do it. Remove it if you have to. You don't really need it.

    OK I retook the carb apart today to see if the clip was hitting. Well it wasn't but I did notice there was a small difference between the new and old brass seat. The old seat had a little ID chamfer where the needle seats and the new one didn't have the chamfer. So I don't know if that makes any difference but I put the old needle and seat back in and reassembled the carb. I did not get a chance to start it to see if it made a difference. Hopefully tomorrow I will get time and see if it fixes it. I will report back on my results.

    OK, well I have good news. I started her up today after putting the old seat and valve in yesterday and she ran good. It is no longer dumping fuel in and the two adjusting screws now work. I was able to adjust to get it to run pretty good. I have to get new spark plugs and do some final tuning. Thanks again everyone for all your help.
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