52' Brake line diagram
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Hello, I am trying to find a brake line diagram for my 52' 4-door hudson hornet. I'm replacing all the original brake lines and trying to get a good idea of the length of line I need. If anyone has done this any pointers would be appreciated. Also, I believe I need a rear drum puller to get those rear drums off or are they just really difficult to pull off? Thanks!
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You will need a hub puller to get the rear drum off.If you dont have one you could rent one. But if you plan on having a Hudson and working on it yourself may as well find one.
The Parts book has a pictoral diagram of the brake hardware (plate #8)If you dont have one I can scan a copy for you,
Roger0 -
Appreciate it... I just found the parts book online which is very helpful, but I'm still trying to figure out lengths of tubing. I'm starting at the rear end and working my forward.0
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Well I have found when changing lines on my Hudsons that they were standard parts house lengths . Allready stocked with flares and nuts installed - all I had to do was make the bends. So if you duplicate each line one at a time this system will work for you too.The parts store has it in progressive lengths. At least a good one will like NAPA,
Roger0 -
Roger is right on the money here with the pre-fabbed straight lines in various lengths. I get most all of my auto parts from NAPA, but fuel, brake and hydraulic lines recently left me dumbstruck, mouth open, lost look on my face. I wanted 25' rolls of tubing (a convertible uses nearly 100' of tubing for top and windows), and the various fittings like tubing ends, 'T'-s, elbows, etc. I couldn't get enough ends (I needed about 65) from all of the Napas in Texas or the surrounding states. BUT, I could walk over to the tubes by the window and pick up all the pre-made straight pieces in 20 lengths I could carry. I ended up buying several of these anyway, and utilized what I could.
I guess most folks just don't form their own ends like we used to. :huh: It's still cheaper, but was logistically challenging.0 -
I had bought a 25' roll of line and rented a double flaring tool from auto zone... I've gone through two flaring tools and both of the forcing screws were bent giving me lopsided double flares... practiced over 30 flares. So I'm leaning towards just buying the pre-made lines.0
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I don't know how many "miles" of tubing I've done but the trick is to not put huge pressure on the tubing when you double flare the ends of your tubing. Unlike the steel lines put on by Hudson, today's brake and fuel line material is more malable. When you have to bend the tubing slowly start to bend the material so it won't kink. Tight 90 degree bends are a bit tricky so be careful to use a tube bender when producing those. Oh yes one final an simple rule that I forget my self. make sure that when you are going to flare and bend that you FIRST put on the connector. You can make a beautiful bend ,have a great flare and it will be worthless without a proper connector. Been there done that! Good luck in any event.0
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i just replaced the lnes going to the front brakes on my 53 4 door. 60" going from front right wc to tee, 30" going from left front wc to tee- this may be a little longe than factory because i went around steering box not under it, and 24" going from tee to master cyl. i bought a eastwood brake line bending pliars for 3/16" line and that helped a bunch! i noticed harbor freight sells one for a little less but haven't tried it. double flares on steel don't always come out good for me either that's why i went with pre flaired. the rear line looks like less bends.0
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I've been using E-Z brake tubing on my last 4-5 brake line replacements. This stuff is some sort of special alloy that is incredibly malleable. You can literally make all the bends with your hands, even very tight ones.
It never rusts nor corrodes, and is fully DOT approved. A bit pricey compared to steel line, but well worth the extra expense. I usually buy mine on Amazon.. about $30 for 25 ft, a little less for longer quantities.
http://www.amazon.com/SUR-Auto-Parts-SRRBREZ100-Tubing/dp/B002YKE7DU/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1329578708&sr=8-4
Because the tubing is a little softer compound, you won't have a problem making decent double flare connections.
As far as determining the correct lengths for each of the runs, I find the best thing is to get a roll of fairly thick plumber's solder, and bend it to follow the exact contour of each line, then straighten it out and use to cut the correct distance.
Finally, when making your flares, after using the cutoff tool, don't forget to ream the hole in the tubing end, then file the surface flat with a small file (I do this with the tubing pointing down to avoid getting any filings in the tube).0 -
Doc, it's called conifer tubing, and it is great. Most european cars use it. It is an alloy of copper, nickel & ferrous iron(steel). It's a bit costly, but easy to bend & flare & is as strong under pressure and does not rust or pit as conventional steel tube. Go on line to get prices.0
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DocHornet wrote:
Finally, when making your flares, after using the cutoff tool, don't forget to ream the hole in the tubing end, then file the surface flat with a small file (I do this with the tubing pointing down to avoid getting any filings in the tube).
DO NOT FORGET THIS PART!seen many a guy forget to do this. :oops:0 -
If you want to make your own double flares purchase a hydrolic flare tool kit. It will make perfect double flare every time. Expensive but worth it for quality double flare. I've also used the ready made brake lines at parts store. But for the custom one length brake line needing double flares with no mistakes the hydrolic flareing tool is a great tool to have.
Have a good day
Lee O'Dell0 -
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Yes, I've bought from those guys at FedHill, and find them to be extremely knowledgeable about the various fittings used on virtually every model. But being the cheapskate, I usually purchase my tubing via Amazon, which is significantly cheaper.0
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That tubing is the way to go, but if you are using the cheap steel lines, I 've found that quality flares are usually directly related to the quality of the flaring tools that one is using. A quality tubing bender is a must for the steel lines.0
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One thing that I found to be very helpful is to chamfer the outside edge with a file or grinding wheel before you attempt to do a double flare, plus put a tiny amount of oil on the die where it makes contact with the tubing. I read that in the instructions... huh, imagine that. They turn out beautiful every time.
Hope this helps.
John Forkner0 -
Your right. Forgot the periodic chart for copper CU.0
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The only bad flares I've ever made were with cheap flaring tools. The only good flares I've ever made were with quality flaring tools. This is one area where you need to spend the money for a quality tool!0
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Lee ODell wrote:If you want to make your own double flares purchase a hydraulic flare tool kit. It will make perfect double flare every time. Expensive but worth it for quality double flare. I've also used the ready made brake lines at parts store. But for the custom one length brake line needing double flares with no mistakes the hydraulic flaring tool is a great tool to have.
I'm going to test that theory in another day or so, Lee!:ohmy:
It's very quick and easy to use! If there are any leaks it will be because of "operator error"!
Wish I would have known about that other tubing. I would be finished by now and both front lines would be routed through the frame, which makes for a cleaner look.
Kevin C.0 -
Tom Drew wrote:The only bad flares I've ever made were with cheap flaring tools. The only good flares I've ever made were with quality flaring tools. This is one area where you need to spend the money for a quality tool!
My point, exactly!0 -
After doing several cars using a cheaper flaring tool kit and fighting it all the way to get good flares, I purchased one like this
http://www.eastwood.com/universal-hydraulic-flaring-kit-not-for-stainless.html?srccode=ga220010&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=zzproduct_ads&gclid=CLbXsf_VrK4CFQGd7Qodv2foRQ
and will never to back to the cheap one! This is so much easier to use and puts a perfect double flare on the stainless lines I use, every time.0 -
Kdancy wrote:After doing several cars using a cheaper flaring tool kit and fighting it all the way to get good flares, I purchased one like this
http://www.eastwood.com/universal-hydraulic-flaring-kit-not-for-stainless.html?srccode=ga220010&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=zzproduct_ads&gclid=CLbXsf_VrK4CFQGd7Qodv2foRQ
and will never to back to the cheap one! This is so much easier to use and puts a perfect double flare on the stainless lines I use, every time.
That is the tool I use. There are other kits using the same pump but with fewer attachments if you do not need to do A/C lines ect. Prices very depending how complete a kit you need. I believe my kit was in the $450 range.
Worth every cent just for the satifaction of perfect flares and lack of stress from multiple failures using the cheep flareing tools.
Have a good day
Lee O'Dell0
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