1932 Greater Eight Coupe

[Deleted User]
[Deleted User]
edited November -1 in HUDSON
Hallo again,
since two weeks, with interruption, we are going to bring back the Coupe on the road. The engine was not running for a very long time. We removed both oilpans, cleaned it and cleaned the engine inside. My question, it is an oil splasher engine and I am afraid, that the crankshaft has not enough oil, when we start it because it was not running a long time, what I have to pay attention for ?
Another problem are the shock absorbers, they are dry and and have no effect, the ride control is connected, but I dont know how the position on the shock absorbers must be. Now we remove the fuel tank to clean it and clean the fuel tubes. Many seals and gaskets are dry rotten, hope they will work better, when the engine is running and becomes temperature.
Hope not to many unpleasant surprises will appeare in the next weeks.
I stay in touch and thank you for every advice

Regards from germany
Juergen

Comments

  • oldhudsons
    oldhudsons Senior Contributor
    what you need to do is fill the dipper trays in the upper pan with oil before putting the 2 pans back up this way the rods will immediately pick up oil.
    Doing this can get kinda tricky, esp. so that you don't spill any oil and keep all the pans to block screw holes lined up, so here's what I always did:
    I would use my hydraulic jack to put the pans back up. I'd use a piece of wood approx. the same size as the bottom of the pans. Before placeing the pan assembly onto the wood on the jack I would loosely tie the pans together to keep the holes lined up. After placing the pan assy., now with oil in the upper one & both tied together, onto the jack, slowly jack the pan assy. into position below the block, getting the screw holes lined up, then start several of them. After you've got some of them well started then pull the strings out and fasten them all of snug.
    It is quicker & easier if you have someone helping you by a least jacking up the pan assy. while you lie under the engine making sure everything is lining up properly.
    Hope this has been helpful.
  • oldhudsons
    oldhudsons Senior Contributor
    by the "fuel tank" I assume you are referring to the vacuum tank on the firewall, so yes, good idea to take it apart & clean it as gas may well have set in there for a long time until it all evaporated so may expect rusty scale in it.
    You will probably have to make some new gaskets, I recommend using new fresh cork or gasket paper & use a punch set to make holes.
    You may expect the same of the carb. exc. it's much smaller, just need to dis-assemble it, clean the bowl; hopefully the gaskets won't break (take it slow taking it apart, perhaps use a small knife between old gaskets & metal surfaces so can use gaskets over again). There is a carburetor man in Mo. I believe who specializes in gaskets & repair kits for old carburetors if you have to go that route.
    GOOD LUCK with your project, wish I was there to help!
  • bob ward
    bob ward Senior Contributor
    Not wanting to hijack Juergen's thread, but how did Hudson fill the dipper pan in the engine assembly plant?

    Presumably the oil pans went on dry when the engine was upside down and then somehow oil was introduced once the engine was right way up.
  • oldhudsons
    oldhudsons Senior Contributor
    also you say the engine "was not running for a very long time" SO that means the clutch hasn't been used for a long time either therefore you should empty & flush the clutch before actually driving & shifting it.
    The owners manual will tell you how many oz. you will need & as you probably don't have Hudsonite you can use ATF instead.
    I hope the clutch disc isn't stuck to the flywheel.
    The clutch may need attention, hopefully not, perhaps even recorking but we have a specialist here who rebuilds them.
    I think you will REALLY enjoy the '32. The engine has roller tappets and a timing chain (both expensive items which Hudson dropped/changed in '34) so is very quiet & smooth. They are a handsome car to look at & a lot of fun to drive.
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    Well on those motors the oil pump is mounted outside the crankcase on the side of the block. I would think you could take the pipe loose and pump oil in that way.
    At least to answer your question as to the factory meathod,
    Roger
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    Thank you for the advices oldhudsons, I will respect them very well. The clutch I think is not sticked and it is filled with Hudsonite, I ordered 2 bottles at the HET-shop, I am member now, and I got them last week. We will change it.
    Hope I hear the engine smoothly running as soon as possible.

    Regards Juergen
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    The engines at the factory, the upper tray were filled with oil through the valve area, this way mains were filled before engine were started. It takes 2 quarts to fill the tray and 7 in the bottom. Walt.
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    That makes sense - -thanks Walt ,
    Roger
  • oldhudsons
    oldhudsons Senior Contributor
    however, this is not a new engine at the factory but is in the car so why try to work around the exh. manifold & take off the valve covers to try to get into the valve areas to awkwardly pour oil into the galleries???????????
    he already has the pans down!
  • StillOutThere
    StillOutThere Expert Adviser
    One of the few advantages of a babbitt bearing engine is that babbitt is very porous and hold a considerable amount of oil. The oil that was in those babbitt rods and mains from when it last ran is still there and has not been exposed to moisture, light, heat or further contamination. You could probably run the motor without oil for quite a few hours (I am NOT recommending this) without doing harm. I once purchased a poorly maintained Terraplane and drove it home 25 miles on a 95 degree day over a low mountain pass. Pete may remember Huey Long's '35 coupe that I restored. Went to change oil the next morning and there was NOTHING in the crank case. Filled it and drove it many hundred miles prior to rebuild when the bearings still looked good! However the camshaft lobes were severely worn.
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    Great, that sounds very well and reduce my fears ...!

    Thank you
    Juergen
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