couple of rear axle questions
hoggyrubber
Expert Adviser
i was installing the new rear tires and painted rims on my 53 and noticed the axle nut was loose. it did not have the cotter pin in it and since i had been driving it a little latly had worked the hub loose.
this is the only rim i have never had off this car. i took off the axle nut and looks like someone had hit the threaded part of the axle shaft with a hammer! it had boogered up the threads bad enough the nut is totally messed up. i may be able to repair the threads on the axle shaft i ordered a 3/4-20 die today. this car had the engine gone and a bunch of parts robbed off it when i got it. i guess they did this to get hub loose, but the real question is..... what did they take off???
do i need to remove the axle shaft to check everything out? i have some spare parts cars and stuff and a extra axle that i took off a 52. i checked the manual and this axle is the kind with the bolt on cover. it also mentions keeping shims in correct order and placement (the only axles i have removed is full floating bigger chevy truck axles). is this what it was taken apart for what do i need to check to see if it is ok? with the way the nut was it could have never been tightened up all the way like this. the other side has cotter pin holding it on and is tight.
this is the only rim i have never had off this car. i took off the axle nut and looks like someone had hit the threaded part of the axle shaft with a hammer! it had boogered up the threads bad enough the nut is totally messed up. i may be able to repair the threads on the axle shaft i ordered a 3/4-20 die today. this car had the engine gone and a bunch of parts robbed off it when i got it. i guess they did this to get hub loose, but the real question is..... what did they take off???
do i need to remove the axle shaft to check everything out? i have some spare parts cars and stuff and a extra axle that i took off a 52. i checked the manual and this axle is the kind with the bolt on cover. it also mentions keeping shims in correct order and placement (the only axles i have removed is full floating bigger chevy truck axles). is this what it was taken apart for what do i need to check to see if it is ok? with the way the nut was it could have never been tightened up all the way like this. the other side has cotter pin holding it on and is tight.
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Comments
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Sent you a PM regarding a 1952 2nd Series Transmission and Rear Axle manual.
Hudsonly,
Alex Burr
Memphis, TN0 -
The shims have nothing to do with the end of the axle. They sit between the bearing and the housing to adjust the amount of end float in the axles. The hub fits on the taper of the axle and there is a heavy washer and the castellated nut, which must be done up very tight (150-200- ft. lbs.)
Geoff0 -
Without seeing the type of damage I would guess someone had tried to remove the drum with an cheap puller. Even with the right tool you can get carless and cause damage. The nut should not be hard to find or the axle I have both if you need them,
Roger0 -
thank you all three for the info. i have an extra nut and axle shaft so i don't think i will have to take you up on your offer roger. also i said "hub" in my original post when i meant "drum". i do have a 52 manual and 53 suppliment and looked at the diagrams, but not being a pro at anything, unless i can see and touch it in real life, sometimes i have a little trouble "getting it" from the pictures. thanks again alex for tranny manual info.
i guess i didn't really want to have to remove the axle shaft unless i had to, but was afraid parts might have been robbed from within. i think i remember reading in walts tech tip book not to hit the axle when using a puller to free it or it might damage something like a bearing or shim. so when i saw this hammer mark i was a little concerned. i think i will try to repair the threads, put on a different nut, tighten it back up, and see how it does. if the threads don't work it will have to come out anyway. i may use this oppertunity to redo the rear brakes, i just have the front ones hooked up now. i still have other kinks to work out before it's totally road worthy. thanks again, stacy0 -
I did'nt see anything in the photo to make me concerned about the thread condition. Granted they could be clearer but still not too bad.
Roger0 -
Thats what I meant - Nothing unususalthat I could see,
Roger0 -
thank you guys for all the help. ken your pictures were very helpful to me! i see what you are talking about about that flat spot on the side of the threads both the axle shaft on the car and my spare axle has them and they line up with the keyway. mine had another problem i will post a couple of pictures. it's a little hard to see on the shaft but the outer couple of threads on the bottom are actually pushed toward he center. the head was also mushroomed a bit which i have filed off a little now. the threads on the nut were totally striped and gone. i will just have to wait to see how they clean up when i get the die, i am still waiting. it looks like the outer couple of threads were what were affected on the shaft.0
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well i finally got the die the other day and the threads cleaned up fine on the axle shaft. i am still going to take this apart soon and grease the bearings and check everything out. at least i will be able to move it around again, i don't think i could have even got the axle out where it was at in the back corner. i need to sell one of my chevy trucks to make more room! i also got a patch panel cut, fit, and ready to weld in on the back floor today on the hudson.0
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got the axle out today. hub puller worked good and i had to use a slide hammer to remove axle shaft. i now have a better idea of how everything works. i was a little supprised when i pulled the axle and the bearing is smooth and well greased. i wondered what was causing the wheels not to turn smooth. i checked the oil in the rear end and it was set up like jello or pudding!!!
what would cause that? i have checked the fluid in sone pretty old rear ends and never seen anything like that. i guess i will need to pull the cover off the pumpkin and clean it out, i sure don't like the idea of it being that gunked up. looks like nothing is missing from someone robbing parts, i was kind of worried about that due to messed up threads.0 -
Just make sure it's not saw dust, that was a trick back in those days to quiet a noisy rear. Walt.0
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no saw dust, just gel like oil. i read today about doing a flush of the rear end after 1000 miles in the manual, but it says not to use kerosene for this. i would like to clean out the muck if i could but not sure what to use. don't want to make it hard on a seal or anything. i have some commercial degreaser, but like the kerosene, i'm a little concerened to use it. i guess i could mix 1/2 and 1/2 with light weight motor oil and turn the driveshaft a bunch, drain, them fill with 90 weight, turn, and drain and put new in. anyone have any thoughts?0
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no saw dust, just gel like oil. i read today about doing a flush of the rear end after 1000 miles in the manual, but it says not to use kerosene for this. i would like to clean out the muck if i could but not sure what to use. don't want to make it hard on a seal or anything. i have some commercial degreaser, but like the kerosene, i'm a little concerened to use it. i guess i could mix 1/2 and 1/2 with light weight motor oil and turn the driveshaft a bunch, drain, them fill with 90 weight, turn, and drain and put new in. anyone have any thoughts?
I believe you have grease in the pumpkin. I would use the kerosene and flush with
spray degreaser. Continue until the gunk is cleared, reservice with correct gear lube.
I my past there have been several times I have disassembled transmissions and
3rd members which had grease instead of gearlube service.
Good luck0 -
i'm sure glad for the advice, and i bet you are right, i'ts prob just grease. i will give it a try, because it sure needs to be cleaned out. i had some good luck yesterday while waiting on this, i got the parking brake freed up and working.0
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well the rear cleanse worked well, got all the grease out. while i was in there i checked the run out and it was .001 so that was good. backlash was .007 so it was a thousandth over but i am going to leave it alone. the wear looked even on the teeth.
i got the bearing cleaned and repacked cleaned everything and installed the shims and end play was .004 so i am good here too. i did notice in the manual, for the rear end with removable pan, it says to inslall shim pack for right side only! how is the bearing adjusted on the left side. i looked and for the other rear, welded pan type is says to adjust both with shims. then i checked and the left axle shaft has more way more endplay than the .004". anyone know whats up with that? i have not removed the left axle shaft but have drum and hub off of that side, i was going to finish right before i move on. still have to finish wheel cyl. thanks, stacy k
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well i got the drivers side almost finished today. just need to assemble the brake shoes and springs tomarrow. well the manual for the removable cover rear was right, no shims on this side. i don't know how bearing adjustment is done for this side, but since it was fine at .004- i don't have to worry about it. i may have this finished up by the weekend(as slow as i work). i want to remove fuel tank while it up in the air too. i was a little bummed oreillys don't carry the wheel cyl kits, but was able to order them thru autozone.0
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The axle ends butt against a block in the center of the diff. This block is not fixed in position, and is able to move laterally, so the end play is adjusted on one side only.0
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thank you Mr Clark, that answers all my questions. that explains why, when i had one axle shaft out, the other had a lot of play. i should have noticed that but, most of the time, i'm not good at thinking outside the box. i have it all back together now and all seems good. still need to finish running new brake lines to back and adjust and bleed. i also got the fuel tank out today.0
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