Overdrive glich

kamzack
kamzack Senior Contributor
edited May 2012 in HUDSON
Overdrive in my 50 Commodore works very well if I stay in motion. If I stop, shut the engine off for a few minutes, after startup It doesn't click and engage. If I let it set for 30 minutes to an hour, it goes back to working. All new wiring. I pulled in the shop after a drive, jacked it up and selinoid was a bit warm. I removed the selinoid and governor. Replaced the governor with an nos unit. removed the cap from the selinoid and cleaned the contact with a points file. Still acts the same. Don't want to go on a road trip with it and have to wait for 30 minutes or more for whatever to decide to work again.
Kim

Comments

  • russmaas
    russmaas Senior Contributor
    Could be from overdrive relay, not activating. Are you on 6 or 12 volts
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    edited May 2012
    Kim I have attached a wiring diagram and an article on troubleshooting the OD. Note, that even though you have a new wiring harness the contacts in the OD system may not be making the connections needed to reliably connect and disconnect the active components of the system. After reviewing and completing the recommended troubleshooting, I would suggest you remove and examine each connection, one at a time. Refurbish the connector with a bit of crocus cloth or scotch brite, reconnect the connector, test for correct operation, if still not operating correctly move on to the next connection and repeat.

    As Russ has stated above, the relay may have contact corrosion/or burnt and this in turn is creating a problem. Last but not the least, the Hudson ODs are notorious for leaking. The transmission oils can create insulation on electrical contacts found in the OD system. Clean contacts are necessary for reliable functioning.

    Best of Luck in your trouble shooting and repair.
  • lostmind
    lostmind Expert Adviser
    Hello Kim , I suggest you check the battery and charging system.
    I have worked on several Hudsons that the overdrive wouldn't engage and in many cases the battery was either under capacity ,wouldn't pass a load test or the charging system
    would not keep it charged up. This is usually the case whan the OD won't engage with the lights on.Good battery cables of the correct size and good connections make a difference.
    good luck.
    Roy
  • kamzack
    kamzack Senior Contributor
    Russ, Ken, Roy
    It's 6 volt system, new wire harness. New contacts in the od harness plugs, new battery, new voltage regulator and I rebuilt the generator just before mounting it. I've put about 400 miles on the car gettin bugs out. However, the relay is original, I cleaned it up and painted it. I wanted to use it as it has the correct prongs for the bakelite plug on the od harness. Wire harness is new from dash forward. As mentioned, I used a points file to clean all the contact points in the selinoid. Your thinking is the relay may be getting warm and not allowing continuity? I also am using the fuse that was originally on the relay. I would say finding an NOS relay that will work with my renovated plug will be very difficult. Does the relay have contact points in it that may have corrosion?
    Thank you very much guys,
    Kim
  • lostmind
    lostmind Expert Adviser
    Kim , it is normal for the solenoid to be warm.Even though you have a "new " battery
    it could be low amperage rateing, although you seem to go first class on every
    thing.A "new " regulator may be set to low.
    It is very possible you have a bad relay.
    You should be able to remove it from the car and pull off the cover and clean the points like you did in the solenoid.
    Good luck
    Roy
  • kamzack
    kamzack Senior Contributor

    Thanks for the guidance thus far. The Selinoid is original. Gonna try to take relay apart and hope I don't destroy it.
    I brought the shop manual in this evening and gonna try to study the trouble shoot guide.
    Kim
  • DocHornet
    DocHornet Expert Adviser
    Kim,

    I just installed a manual with O/D on my '51 Hornet, originally automatic tranny. The wiring diagram for this system is in all the manuals, and is pretty straight forward. It shouldn't be hard to rig up a temporary switch to "trigger" the relay in place of the governor, which will at least help you track down the problem.

    I do have the 6V original relay from my system, as I had to replace it with a 12V modern relay to match my 12V system. There is nothing special about the overdrive relay, and it can easily be replaced with a $3 standard 4 or 5 pin automotive relay. I used the metal housing from the old relay, and epoxied the new plastic relay inside, to preserve appearance.

    Of course you'd have to go with a plastic connector for the new relay, but I can't imagine how you could ever completely clean up both male and female contacts in that old original connector.

    Just one thought.
  • Geoff
    Geoff Senior Contributor
    You need to understand that the govenor only provides a ground circuit for the relay to energize, but this will only happen with the engine running and the generator charging, as the coil for the relay is hooked up to the "A" terminal on the voltage regulator. The relay contacts, when closed, provide voltage for the solenoid. To check that the solenoid is in fact energising from the relay, try prising off the relay cover and manually close the contacts. You should hear an audible click from the solenoid. Hope this helps.
  • SuperDave
    SuperDave Senior Contributor
    Don't overlook the possiblity that the relay could have some intermittant problems associated with the riveted electrical connections. I have repaired a few by soldering across the connections.
This discussion has been closed.

Categories

In this Discussion