fuse size on 1953 Hudson Hornet

hoggyrubber
hoggyrubber Expert Adviser
edited May 2012 in HUDSON
i have mentioned i am in the process of rewiring my 53 hornet. my main circut breaker is missing so i bought a 4 fuse old style breaker box from oreilly's pretty cheap for $4. one is going to be for #1 ingition switch, #2 will be for brake lights, #3 will feed the headlight switch, #4 will be for aux. does anyone know what size fuses i should run in #1, #2 and #3? i have replaced the wiring in all those circuts with correct orig size. this is the first 6 volt car i have owned. #1 is 10 gage, 2 is 14 gage, and 3 is 12 gage. thanks, stacy k

Comments

  • Park_W
    Park_W Senior Contributor
    edited May 2012
    I'd use 20a for ignition and stoplights, 30a for headlights, 30a for aux. Are you going to use a headlight relay? I strongly recommend ... will result in max voltage getting to the lights.
  • Marconi
    Marconi Senior Contributor
    The headlight switch has a circuit breaker built into it which also protects the parking and tailamp circuits.
  • hoggyrubber
    hoggyrubber Expert Adviser
    thanks for those sizes, i will go with that. i am going to try to use the orig headlight switch with the breaker built in. i put the fuse box basicly in place of the orig main circut breaker. what type of relay do you suggest? i am not a electic whiz, and am not that familur with them. i don't do much driving at night at all, with very little highway diving at night, so brightness souldn't be a huge factor for me.
    i did test the brake light switch today and it worked so i was happy about that! still need to finish up the rear brake/ tail light connections. i was thinking about omitting the bullet style connector in the trunk and just go with a direct connection.
    i may take this thing out for a drive next weekend! i am really hoping the generator works, i did buy a ne voltage reg. i guess we will soon see. thanks again. stacy k
  • Marconi
    Marconi Senior Contributor
    You need a 6 or 12 volt headlamp relay, depending on what voltage you're using. Those headlamp switches have a habit of frying themselves especially if the cars been sitting for a while. The headlamp relay makes it so the switch only has the current of the realy coil giong thru it, a couple of amps, instead of the full current of the head and tail lamps. If the knob on the switch gets warm or hot the contacts are dirty.
  • SuperDave
    SuperDave Senior Contributor
    Some very good advice from the above.. but..What ever you do.. Don't have a fuse in the headlight circuit. There is a serious safety concern with the lights going out and STAYING out at highway speed. Circuit breakers reset themselves and might save your life. Don't overlook the dimmer switch which most likely is very corroded due to it's location.
  • J Spencer
    J Spencer Expert Adviser
    hoggyrubber, If what you mean by a direct connection to the taillights is to just crimp the wires together, please do not do it. You need a disconnect in case you need to remove the taillight assembly. You could use a 1/4 in male/female spade connector. I like to use a male and a female on say the taillight side and corresponding end on the other end. That way if you disconnect the wires you know where they go. Can't get them wrong.

    Jim Spencer
    WNY/Ontario Chapter
  • hoggyrubber
    hoggyrubber Expert Adviser
    thanks for the input superdave, i hadn't thought about the headlight deal, that could be bad! Mr Spencer, that's a good point about the disconnect. maybe i should go back with the orig hudson bullet type disconnect. thanks again. stacy k
  • Hudson Grandpa
    Hudson Grandpa Expert Adviser
    When I got my 54 nothing as far as lights, turn signals, brakes, running, worked. Was a mess.
    I don't know if the 53 is anydiff than the 54, but there is a junction block underneath inst panel, just next to the steering column, and then another junction block on the left fender just behind the tailight. I would strongly recommend sticking with the bullet connectors. If you have the wiring diagram for the Hudson chassis, you will understand why they did what they did. I numbered every wire red, blue, green as per schematic, where it goes, what it does. I got new bullets from Rhode Island wiring, clipped off the bad ones and soldered in the new ones. The juction block in back is a bugger. Pay close attention to what each wire does. Install new bullets if you have to. Once everyting is in it's proper place back there, using the proper bulbs, you are done and won't have to worry about anything. Just make sure you always have brake lights. That baby is on the brake master cylinder. The junction block next to column has to do with turn signals, flasher, parking lights, etc.
    Oh yes it's lotta fun, just kidding, but when everything works the way it is supposed to, your suspenders will stretch.
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