Tires

I hope Coker's replica bias-ply tires are better than their radials!

Geoff, about 20 years ago a friend put radials on his Hornet. He had to go a bit smaller than the equivalent of the 710-15 to fit under the skirts. They drove alright into turns and did not follow parallel line faults in the road surface, But were a bad dream trying to turn a nearly fully stopped speeds as in parking. Felt as if I were at the helm of the Titanic.

From what I've read, the only aspect of front-end alignment that has to be changed is the toe-in, and a good shop knows what's needed there (less than original spec's). Lots of horror stories in this thread. Guess I've just been lucky with my radials. Nary a problem. As for AACA, they don't "hate" radials, they just don't accept them on cars that didn't come with them originally, just as for other "modern upgrades."

From my experice useing both bias ply and radial tires has been that inexpensive bias ply or radials tires have given my cars poor handling and sometimes down right scary rides. On the other hand better grade quality bia ply and radial tires have given me good handling cars. Case in point. Aboiut 8-9 year ago I had a 72 Chevy Caprice. It was a good handling car with radials that needed replaceing. I didn't want to spend alot of money on an old car but when I changed to a (Four Radial Tires Special for $99) from Pep Boys it became a scarey car to drive. On a high windy day I was having difficulty keeping the car under control at 45 MPH on the freeway when a strong wind gust from the side sent the car out of control wandering over 3 lanes getting it back under control. They may have been ok for a car that is parked most of the time and goes to meets close to home, but for a car that is driven all the time and alot of highway miles, not safe.

Since most of my mileage is on the highways and freeways I prefer the better grade radials on my car. The step downs are heavy car that need better grade tires either bias ply or radial tires to handle well. I will live with the tires that came on the Hornet I bought until they need replacing but will upgrade them to a better tire because it does not handle to my likeing.

I have heard the term radial tuned for decades. But I have never seen any explanation of what changes were made to a cars suspension to make it tuned to radial tires. Alignment specs of pre radial and post radial cars are close, no significant changes, mainly set toe-in 0 to 1/16". In the mid 1950's the control arm bushings changed from steel to rubber, king pins to ball joints, elimination of drag links and center point steering to pitman arm to center link to idler are, tie rods and sleeves basically the same. Power steering brought about a slightly more positive caster adjustment. However, the alignment specs are still similar.

So what is ment by radial tuned? Someone may have the information.

Here is a possible explanation. It may be car manufacturers designing a package of a specific brand tire, a specific shock, springs and sway bar combination for a specific car to give a good ride and corners well. Or probably sale hype.

For example: I regularly performed wheel alignments on Jaguars for Jaguar specialty shops. They are a great handleing automobile. However, the Jag was designed to ride on Perrelli tires. The Jags that came into the shop with tires other than Perrelli tires did not ride or handle like a Jag. So by the same token finding a certain brand and grade bias ply or radial tires and shocks to handle well on a HET can become a challenge with the many different tire brands and multitude grade ratings (bad to excelent, inexpensive to expensive). Cost or looks of tires for some is the determining factor which translates to the ride quality.

It would be helpful to recieve more than a preference to bias ply or radial tires but rather a specific tire brand name, size and grade rating (bia ply or radial) on your car that improved your HETs ride and made it handle great. Also, shareing the type of driving conditions, city, highway, rarely driven or daily driver that formed your reasons for choosing a particular tire and the handleing results - parking to keeping up on the highways fast lane after changeing tires.

I would like the easier steering for parking that the bias ply tires are reported to have. I'll have to verify that for myself. I do have a set I can try. It takes effort parking my Hornet with manual steering behind my home. But since most of my driving is freeway and highways I prefer the better quality radials designed for wet roads for better stopping and handleing in rainy weather over the better bias ply tires.

They both seem to have there desireablity depending on ones driving conditions.

Have a good day
Lee O'Dell

All brands of tires, bias ply or radials can and do sometimes have problems. Some brands have better quality control to limit the downside

Ask Walt about Coker tires waranty too!

I think whatever you are comfortable with is what you should use. I have 3 stepdowns, all three had bias tires when I bought them. After driving them for a while I changed all three to radials. Two sets were bought from Dave Correllus, 225X75X15 WWW Diamond Back. My old clunker ugly 51 just got black walls 225X75X15. I have not had any problems at all. I drive on the hwy most of the time at 70 to 75 mph, not 90 mph like Walt. I have found that driving in the rain on the hwy even at 55 mph is not safe with bias ply tires in my opinion. Following my brother on the mountain roads in the rain was scarey, he was on bias ply tires and going up hills with turns at the top he got side ways several times. My car never slipped or skidded at all. He said he had his hands full and was a bit nervous. I like my radials, I trust them and I'm happy. Richie.

So anyone try to find the new radial tires in 525X17 or perhaps 600X16... I have not been able to find any so I have gone with bias....

TwinH, I bought a tire mounting machine on ebay a few years ago and dismount and mount my own tires and then take them to be balanced. The last set of Diamondback tires from Dave, I mounted and put on the car before it was ready to drive. As time went by and I was ready to drive it I had forgotton to get the tires balanced. Well I drove it on local streets to make sure all was well. A day or two later I took it on the hwy and drove it 70 to 75mph and all was well. When I got home I started checking under and around the car for signs any problems and then realized the tires were never balanced. I am still driving the car today with no weights on any wheels and it is as smooth at 75mph as a new car. There is no vibration, shake or anything else. The car drives perfectly smooth and straight from a stop to 75mph. I should take a video of how smooth it is. I love the Diamondback tires.
Walt, you are probably right about the rims being strained, I'll pay close attention to that and if there is any indication of trouble I'll put newer wheels on all my Hudsons. Thanks for pointing that out. Richie.

There has been a lot of comment about rims in older posts but the bottom line is if you pick up some MOPAR rims from 49 or 50 (Mine came off an Imperial) they have a formed relif near the weld that provide 60% more strength that solves the problem of the flexability of the SBR tires. Would not have a stepdown without SBR tires.