Head Bolt Torque (hot)

[Deleted User]
[Deleted User]
edited July 2012 in HUDSON
After I ran the Pacemaker for 15 minutes and it seemed I did not have an exhaust gas leak into the cooling system....

I re-torqued the head bolts as required. All but one seemed to have held it cold torque.

Bolt #3 which helps hold the coil bracket turned about 3/16ths of a turn before the wrench clicked. This was one of the
lose ones I found when I removed the head looking for a gasket failure due to exhaust gas registering in the cooling system, the radiator getting hot right away and the temp gauge going to nearly hot in the first three minutes.

At least now, the temp gauge did not go to hot so fast and the radiator was not hot to the touch until the engine had been running for 10 minutes.

So question is............

Do I need to very worried about this #3 head bolt?

Comments

  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    Shameless bump......as I am not sure how to proceed.

    I want to run the car some more to work out the air bubbles so the cooling system is more effective and adjust the carb a little once it is warmed up.
  • onerare39
    onerare39 Expert Adviser, Member
    Pacemaker 500

    With the number if issues that you are having with your car, I am wondering if you might ask one of your local chapter members over to help you sort some of these things out? Two heads are better than one!

    John Forkner

  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    How did you torque your cylinder head and in how many steps? Walt
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    onerare39: On the list. Most live on the other side of the bay. I do want some one to teach me how to better set the timing (or at least check it) and make sure I have the carb set properly.

    Walt: This time I did it in one step. Already at 75 lb cold and was checking for the first time at operating temp. #3 was the only one that really moved. As an update: once I learned I could by-pass the heater core and go straight from the water pump to the head, i ran the car again and did not have any real issues (minor leak under thermo housing so I re-torqued those as well). The thermostat opened as it should and the indication on the gauge was real good.
    After this second warm up I checked the torque again and all were holding at 75 lb and the click wrench clicked right away. I feel comfortable now moving forward with road testing so the engine gets air flow other than the fan.
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    You are suppose to torque in 3 steps on a 232 or 262 engine. Max torque is 65 foot pounds, 35, 45 and then 65. Bolt that coil to the inner left front fender panel, get it off the head. This way it will run cooler, coil that is. At 75 you are stretching the bolts, and also pulling the threads in the block. Walt.
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    Walt, In my earlier thread "Head Reinstall" user "51 Hornet A" provided the service update that showed a new bolt tightening pattern and stated the torque should be 75lbs. My Service Manual also states 75lbs. User "Uncle Josh" was also concerned about the torque. This is an iron head, if that helps.
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    It's the block that you have to worry about. 7/16 bolts can pull right out of the block. That is the reason they went to 1/2 inch bolts. Walt.
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    I understand now. Since I have already gone to 75lbs, I am going to leave it. Since I can't afford to pull the engine and have the holes drilled and tapped for 1/2 inch, I will work with what I have until it needs attention.
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    I just replaced my head gasket on a 308. New Best gasket, used copper spray-a-gasket coating, had head checked and planed, new head bolts from Dale Cooper, and changed to a modern thermostat. Followed Walt's instructions in his book (exactly as he says about torquing) and it runs great, just seems to heat-up faster.
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    You need my thermostat block off plate kit. Walt.
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