54 Hornet wiring

duncan
duncan Expert Adviser
edited August 2012 in HUDSON
When the key is turned to run is there supposed to be power at the wire that goes to the
oil pressure sending unit, water temp sending unit, gas guage sending unit. I bought a new 6 volt battery 6 years ago
to gind out the battery crapped out by sitting idle for all these years. Can it be rejuvinated in any way.I can get a new one G2 79.00 but was wondering about a Optima price in Canada 289.00 + gst from states160.00
Ray

Comments

  • Hudson Grandpa
    Hudson Grandpa Expert Adviser
    Duncan:I would say thats a no on the rejuvanation of that wet cell battery. I have a 6 volt Optima in my 54 cpe. 800 CCA. If you have a generator in your car, and you don't drive it too often, the Optima will do a better job, as it will take a charge and hold it longer. But not driving it so much you will still have to charge it periodically. If you have a generator, I would recommend going to a 6 volt Alternator. Now your Optima and probably any other battery will perform for you better, since the minute you turn the key on the car and the engine runs, that alt is charging that battery, and sticking a good charge to it. And I doubt if you will have any problems with your headlights with the Alt. Yes all Hudsons up to 55 had generators. But back then we drove them every day. I get to drive mine only twice a week. Thats why I had problems with a generator and a wet cell battery. If your and absolute purist, then stick with gen, and wet cell. This is 2012 and there are more things to help make our driving a lot easier..I am still 6 volt. Thats as far as purity goes with me.
  • Park_W
    Park_W Senior Contributor
    Ray, on your question about the wiring scheme, power from the ignition switch is sent to the two "idiot lights" and the gauges. Their respective sending units provide a ground for the dashboard units. In the case of oil and generator, it's pretty much an "off or on" situation. For gas and temp of course, the sender is a resistance that varies with fuel level and engine temp respectively. You can see this by grounding the wire that comes to one of the senders and you'll see the related light come on or gauge sweing over to maximum reading (in the case of the gauges, don't let the gauge stay at max for verry long).
  • duncan
    duncan Expert Adviser
    Thanks for the info. Hudson Grampa why do you only drive it 2 times a week. I plan on driving every day hopefully. I still need to know if I am supposed to have power at water temp, gas guage and oil pressure sending units when key is in run position. Thanks Hudsonly Ray
  • Park_W
    Park_W Senior Contributor
    If you take the wire loose at one of the senders, it will have some voltage there swhen the key is on.
  • duncan
    duncan Expert Adviser
    Thanks Park for the help. I think my main trouble is I do not have a good enough battery.
    I powered the wires in question backwards with the battery charger hooked up and found that they are in the right places, I think the neutral safety switch is bad. Are they hard to find.
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    Ray didyou get my message about the chrome strips ?
    Roger
  • Hudson Grandpa
    Hudson Grandpa Expert Adviser
    OK. I think I'm reading the problem now. If you turn the key to neutral you should have red lights. 2.
    Oil & gen. Wire #7 from the gen light goes to the "A" side of the voltage reg. #12 wire from A on vreg to Gen. there is a #5 wire from the gen and oil light that goes to the ignition switch. Theres where you get your power for the two lights at this point. However if those light do not light up you have a generator or volt reg or battery problem. Can you put a meter on either,gen or vreg with the switch on to see if you have continuity. As i did when I had that problem, you pull the generator and the voltage reg, and take it to an electrical shop that can fix and restore, and realign the volt reg to the generator. Volt reg is supposed to put 9 1/2 volts back into the battery. And also while your at it, take the starter off, and have them juice the windings up so you get more starting power out of it. I doubt if you have a neutral safety switch thats bad. Mine is the original on the car and still does it's job. Wires # 11-12 go from the v reg F & B to the Generator poles. B is hooked to the starter solenoid, and thence to the + side of the battery. I would say if you don't have enough amps in the battery you ain't gonna get nothin. If you put in a new battery, turn the key, and if you get lights, you got a gen, and v reg.
    THe lights will go out once the engine turns over. If they don't then you have v reg problem, or gen. Everything else will power up when all is normal..Thats my 1 cent from someone that didn't know nothin about Electrical work on a Hudson. START WITH A FRESH BATTERY FIRST.
  • Park_W
    Park_W Senior Contributor
    edited August 2012
    H.G., there are a couple of boo-boo's in the above.
    1. If the GEN light doesn't come on with ign on, it's the bulb, wiring from bulb to VR "A" terminal, or wire from there to "A" on the generator. If the Oil light doesn't come on, it's the bulb, wiring down to the oil pressure switch, or the pressure switch itself (ground the wire at the press switch and see if the light comes on)
    2. Voltage reg should produce about 7.2v at the "B" terminal of the VR.
    3. Wires from the VR go from A and F on the VR to A and F on the Gen.
    4. Spinning the engine over may cause the oil light to go off, but the gen light will stay on until the engine starts and gets a bit above idle rpm.
  • duncan
    duncan Expert Adviser
    Hi guys I went to a friends place that has Hudsons and borrowed a real heavy duty 950 cca
    6 volt battery. I tested all bulbs . replaced some. turned key on and amp light come on. I will put things back to gether and try again. Thanks for all the help.I am getting very frustated.
    I live 2 miles from river and thought to pull the car there and push it in. Ray
  • Hudson Grandpa
    Hudson Grandpa Expert Adviser
    Park; 71/2 Volts typo
    #1You got a dead battery..Or bulb is burnt..IF theres a break in the wire from VR to "A" terminal, yes. but if not then the "A" terminal on gen is not putting out. Oil light not coming on is absolute sender.
    #2 taken care of
    #3 #11&#12 from Vreg go to gen respectfully. Thats what I said. A and F to to A and F on the gen
    #4 correct.If you have a generator. If the bulb is burnt out or, if you have to have voltage or amps to look at, then get a gauge. If the engine runs and operates successfully I'm a happy camper.
  • Hudson Grandpa
    Hudson Grandpa Expert Adviser
    What did I say. START WITH A FRESH BATTERY.
  • Hudson Grandpa
    Hudson Grandpa Expert Adviser
    correction;71/2 volts. typo. I'll stand by the boo boos as to what happened to me, with my generator, generator/ oil lights. No gen light, burnt out, Installed an oil gauge to determine the exact oil pressure from the engine installed on the dash. If you have a red oil idiot light that comes on, it's on the late side. Got rid of Gen and went to alt.
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    Don't shove it in the river....Just, once it's fixed, drive it more !! It's the sitting that causes the problems...
  • duncan
    duncan Expert Adviser
    I just fixed the problem .the top small wire that hooks to the solinoid the post was a tad loose so I very gingerly tightened it uup. now when I turn the key to start the engine TURNS OVER..HALALULIA. I have worked off and on for 11 years so get pretty frustated. Thanks for all the help . Ray
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